normanb

Not sure what choice there will be up here, maybe limited.

Couldn't edit the previous post. Did a search, found a couple of youtube videos. So going to 'hopefully' follow those when I get the new battery.

Thank you. Died on us last night, had a good run I suppose 8 years. Have to get a new one 🙁. I know it will need to be coded in, new to vcds, could I trouble you for the procedure please, would be much appreciated.

Car is a 2018 Octavia, would I be right in thinking this is the original battery?

Going back to them, have to wait to near the end of August unfortunately.

Thanks I'll get back to the garage that did the re-gassing a few weeks ago. 5th of May to be precise charged me £96 for the privilege.

Hi, I managed to find the relevant part of VCDS. These where the reading I got: IDE 00021 engine speed 1100/min IDE 00198 Refrigerant pressure 0.8 bar (11.6psi) IDE 00968 Compressor speed 1300/min This bar reading is the same static and running, air con on and off. I don't know if I've done this right but I checked the sensor with a multimeter and the reading seems to be 10k ohms, air con switched on or off. Not sure where to go from here. By the way the condenser rad at the front is not leaking but it's an awful mess, with fins missing and looking pretty blocked for air flow.

I had an annoying clunk develop when switching from fresh air to recirculating and vice-versa. I had installed a rear camera when I first got the car and the clunk just started happening recently. There is another flap above the recirculating flap, just a narrow one that sits on top of the box. Found out after much trial and error, that somehow the loom for the camera had moved and the big connector was catching that flap. It was holding the flap against the motor, and when it had wound it up sufficiently, the flap sprang open/shut and caused the noise. Thought I'd post this in case anyone else had the same thing. Not a lot of space for the camera loom to fit into.

Thanks I'll have a look over weekend.

Hi My air con isn't getting cold, when I press the air con button the fresh air coming out the vents doesn't change. I've had the system re-gassed and they said there are no leaks. I've checked all the flap motors that I can see (4 of them, 3 on the left hand side and 1 on the right), all seem to be working. I've been looking at the workshop manual and the owners manual to try to find any fuse or relay that might control or power the compressor. Apart from fuse 7 behind the glove box, I can't see anything else, is there a relay? Does the compressor on this model have a clutch that should kick in? I read that some vehicles have some kind of variable compressor, so you don't get the click when you switch on the air con. Can I use vcds to check the air con pressure when it's off and when the engine is running. I'd appreciate some guidance on that as I'm new to vcds. Many thanks in advance for any help.

Mine just fell off the other day, with a horrible graunching noise. Did you mean would it fail without it? I don't know I would doubt it though.

Thanks for that, I had a horrible feeling the hub would have to come off, thank you designer/engineer. Think I probably wont bother then, the other side seems ok. They are only about £15 aftermarket so I might get a pair for if the bearings need doing, intending to keep the car for a good while if poss'

Hi Just had one of my rear backplates/splash plates come off due to corrosion. Has anyone replaced these, wondering if it can be done without removing the hub. Looked online and it seems it has a smallish circle in the middle which makes me think the hub might need to come off. The one that came off has just rusted away. Anyone!

Motor for Fresh Air / Recirculated Air Flap Would you have an idea whereabouts this heater motor is, I've read online that it's behind the cabin filter, but also that its under the right hand side of the dash.

Good call! I must have disabled the auto locking while I was trying to find my way around. I'll clear that code and see how it goes when we go out next. Just leaves the heater flap.

Cleared all the codes, two came back on after a run today. 1 Fault Found: 329476 - Motor for Fresh Air / Recirculated Air Flap B108B 71 [00001001] - Actuator Stuck Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 4 Reset counter: 53 Mileage: 145826 km Date: 2026.04.27 Time: 14:26:34 Voltage terminal 30: 11.3 V Outside temperature: 12.0 C Inside temperature: 28.9 C Actual value for fresh air/recirculation air flow flap: 0.0 % Actual value for fresh air/recirculation air flow flap: 72 Fresh air/recirculating air/back pressure door specified value: 94 1 Fault Found: 262912 - Sensor for Anti-Theft Alarm System B1330 F5 [00001000] - Alert Emergency Activation Stage 1 Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 2 Reset counter: 93 Mileage: 145838 km Date: 2026.04.29 Time: 12:26:56 Terminal 15 status: OFF Terminal 50 status: OFF CAN-Bus_aktiv: On Status Bremslichtschalter (HW): OFF Status Bremslichtschalter (CAN): OFF OFF: operated Position lamps: Not operated Automatic high beam assist: Not operated Low beams: Not operated Parking light left: Not operated Parking light right: Not operated last_wakeup: no cause for fault protection Voltage: 12.9 V Outside temperature: 18.0 C I think the sensor for the anti-theft system is probably the one that locks the doors after about 10mph. When we got the car at first it did lock, hadn't noticed before but now it doesn't, not that I'm overly bothered by it. I'll have a think about the flap thing, whether or not to bother. Voltages seem a bit low?

Used VCDS.

I've just run an auto scan. It's come up with 7 faults. Reading the manual, I'm ok with getting into the heater flap motors. Not sure about the air quality sensor, can't see a mention of it in the manual. Nox catalyst bank 1, no idea what to look for. Not clued up on all this stuff, didn't have any of it when I trained as a mechanic, 1970-6 vintage, and last car was a late 200 Kia. System voltage too low, so will need to check the battery and the alternator output, although the rest of the tests indicate a voltage of 14.7 Sensor for anti-theft system, maybe because I had the window open? Any help or advice very much appreciated, I'm trying to get my head around all this stuff. No warning lights on dash. Log-SH68OKJ-TMBBG7NE5K0026727-145708km-90538mi.txt

Did actually find the drain holes. Expected to find them sort of central in bottom door panel, instead they are right into the angle, I could imagine the rubber seal squashing in and covering them up. I'll make sure they are clear from now on, might even make some of my own :-) On a completely separate note: does my Octavia actually have a speaker for the engine noise. 'GM1 Standard electronic engine sound', downloaded from car data.

Just noticed my rear n/s door has a lot of water in it. Managed to drain it by popping out the rubber trim clips on the bottom of the door. Can't see any sign of a drain hole on any of the doors. I've been around the car and most of the seals that butt up against the windows are really crappy, hard and green, the n/s rear is worst and that's how the water has got in. Has anyone replaced these window seals, if so how did you get on and were replacements easy to get.

Fitted this from Ali express as per op. Works perfectly, lines and all. Just as an aside a post came up showing what looks to be the very same camera kit from Halfords at the online exclusive price of £349.

Sure I saw a post about a low mileage VW engine where the oil pump belt had snapped. No idea what engine it was, hence thought I would ask.

Hi not long had this facelift mk3, just found out it has a rubber belt driving the oil pump. Is this a belt that needs to be changed at any particular mileage? Car has 89000 miles on it.

Hi I have a 2019 Octavia that doesn't have the entry/puddle lights on the front doors. Living in the back of beyond I thought they might be useful, is it a real faff to fit ones?

Sorry just worked it out need to hold button down not just press it.