stigma

When the driver's is opened (Left for me, right for you) part of the car wakes up. Primarily BCM and fuel pump. This is why (if wired correctly) you can use the Edmundsen navigation system, while the key is off and such.

Just ambiguous numbers without any reference on the Y axis. It might as well be 5 cow per mile

Then i guesssssss, it would come down to weight and more drag/cw....or something as simple as fuel quality? Can you pull up the Fabia2 cbza? I found this on the interwebz for the fabia 2/Roomster FL: Fabia2 FL specs Roomster FL specs These specs are way more in line with what i am familiar with. The difference between de CBZA/B is electronicly limited throttlebody movement, different exhaust flange, different style of exhaust (one single piece till the resonator vs 2 piece post cat.) Internally they are both the same SOHC engine with nearly the same hardware. If I remember correctly, this was done so the Greenline could be offered for a very attractive prices for leasing companies (together with some more earo/body mods). As for Data pids: Let's start with: IDE00021 — Engine Speed (RPM) IDE00347-ENG102523 — Accelerator Pedal Position IDE00348 — Throttle Valve Angle IDE00604 — Intake Manifold Pressure (MAP) IDE00188-ENG101818 — Charge Pressure Specified Value IDE06211-ENG101411 — Wastegate Duty Cycle ENG104044 — Fuel High Pressure Actual ENG102048 — Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) ENG102144 — Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) IDE06734 — Camshaft Adaptation Intake Bank 1 IDE00025 — Coolant Temperature IDE00597 — Intake Air Temperature This is a basic dataset to see if basic paramters are met/in spec. When data like Temp sensors and throtle postition vs throttle valve angle and high fuel pressure actual are verfified, you can omit that and replace them with more key data points where you have requested vs actual: IDE06734 — Camshaft Adaptation Intake Bank 1 Lambda Specified Value Lambda Actual Value (B1S1) ENG102048 — Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) ENG102144 — Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) Tank Ventilation Valve (N80) Duty Cycle Injection Time IDE06211-ENG101411 — Wastegate Duty Cycle Misfire Recognition Cylinder 1 Misfire Recognition Cylinder 2 Misfire Recognition Cylinder 3 Misfire Recognition Cylinder 4

Not saying it's a problem, but that's 99% sure a pcv system working suboptimal or intake leak (or vacuum related in any case). Our car has a tune on it since, if i remember correctly, 150.000km's or so. That made the car a little less economical but a way better torque/boost curve over the rev range. It still also is fitted with the original clutch :D Does the engine shutter a bit at idle or is the pickup from release to pressing the throttle, just nearly unnoticable hesitant (not talking about spool time). I would love to get that car in the best health possible. Would be intrested in getting data from VCDS!

What's the average consumption at this point? I guess the car has to burn off a whole new tank again to get back to where it was but, before that? I mean we could talk intake/exhaust leaks, sub optimal injection, pcv valve and oil seperator all can cause raised consumtion problems ofcourse.

I bought a set of injectors from a low mileage car. I think it had around 40k miles on them. The state of the injectors were so bad because they were so clogged with old fuel, i was unable to get them up to par with our own original injectors. Perhaps you suffered the same problem and this is exactly why i bought the machine. I need visual representation of the state of the injectors, not an assumption of good injectors. I ended up returning them and managed to balance out our own. The most impactful mechanical change were the valve cleaning, EVAP valve, turbo swap, oil separator on the back and chain/tensioner kit. Currently it's doing an insane 4.7L/100km average.

Now that that's done, time to move up to doing your own injector cleaning/balancing and intake cleaning 😅 I payed €275 for the walnutblaster and €245 injector cleaner. Good tool for as long as we have ICE engines. Additional costs will just be consumables .

The battery/charge warning light should by governd by the BMS. Thing is, our car was severely underperforming and leave the battery at 11.4V which way too, however the car never made any notice. When I changed the alternator, I took off the negative pole, however that sucker crept back against the negative pole without me noticing it and holding my wrench against the negative bolt of the alternator, fried the fuse box....which I found out later....i just saw nice sparks haha. Even though I swapped out the alternator and started the car, 12.2V and dropped slowly at idle. I suppose the LIN signal is severely limited what it communicates to the BMS. I wondered the same thing. I later found out that, ofcourse, the fuse board was fried but I always wondered why the car didn't report a "no/low charge signal".

You should be able to swap the alternator out in situ. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Remove the 02 sensor and remove the heat shield fasteners and move aside the heat shielding. Remove the fan shroud, remove the pulley that covers the bolt for the alternator. After that, remove the top bolt and lower the alternator with the bottom bolt still captive somewhat. Disconnect the communication plug, remove the negative clamp and the cable holder. After that, disconnect and lower away and hang the AC compressor aside, pull out the last fastener and then lower away the alternator. Reverse install the new alternator. Make sure you have part 6R0937629B with the 175A fuse for the alternator path.You don't want a lower amperage fuse board or you will end up with a no charge condition pretty quick. GL.

Are you sure that's interchangeable? That one does not support Start/Stop. It also has been superseded by the F model. Perhaps that means it uses a different LIN pin out I'll pull up ETKA

110 amps? You sure? It's from Bosch? What accessoires does the car have. Aside from parking sensors, electric windows and AC, there are no heated seats, no adaptive headlights or anything like that in our Fabia 2 and it's packing the 140A alternator. Fuse board for the alternator is 175A as well. This is the International portal for our local junkers. This is also where is source most of the parts i slap in/on cars. They are legit. Alternators

Alternator pulley/clutch turns and slips both ways

I'll check in bit. If I remember correctly, it is supposed to freewheel both directions.

Coincidentally, i had to swap out the rectifier on the Fabia 2 weekends ago. 13.1V output with all accesoires turned on. Replaced then original one with a scrapyard one (snapped off connector) and ordered a new rectifier so it's a cheaper long term solution instead of buying a new one. Hope you get the Roomster running under it's own power again.

eh nice. I dumped the Monroe's in favor of Bilstein's. That rendered that tool useless (steps up to a 22m nut)