stigma

eh nice. I dumped the Monroe's in favor of Bilstein's. That rendered that tool useless (steps up to a 22m nut)

Just a miniscule cracked vacuum line will cost you consumption over time. Ask me how i know. No idea t.b.h. Most fasteners are doublehex, as with most German cars. That Allan key would not go onto any fastener that you would need to be able to access to get into some "easy access" compartment. That's insane. Might as well drive the 1.4TSI then. The whole attraction for me is the low consumption and low maintenance paired with reasonable torque at low rpms.

I see the Roomster has a gas tank capacity of 55 liters and wet is 1221kg. Judging just based on the exterior, i doubt that the cw (Cd) value is that much higher then the Fabia estate. As i mentioned before, all the engine mechanics need to be top notch for it to operate at it's best. Use VCDS to check your engine balance: Fuel pressure Lambo MAP Etc etc. These engine suffer from vacuum leaks, pcv and oil separator issues. Then ofcourse, there are the standard VAG issues like carbon intake fouling, exhaust leaks, thermostat housing leakage, water pump failure, general gasket failures etc etc. My best guess is, you are suffering from vacuum leas from the brake booster side or perhaps a faulty control valve from the EVAP system. Does the car run a little rough at idle and/or cold starts, but normal under load? If so, definitely a vacuum leak or intake fouling.

So if i convert your metric and British imperial units and i round up to 700km's for a full tank of gasoline? That's a thirsty engine. Keeping it metric, the fabia is 1136kg's wet weight Tuned to 143hp and 245Nm peak torque. Gas tank is 43L. Average comes around tot 1L to 100km. Converting that back to imperial numbers: Average consumption, based on ~ 90% freeway @60mph is 56 miles per gallon.

The space at that spot is already super tight and also, the cable isn't that long to begin with. Best option is to just grind it. You will never need to remove that cable in it's lifetime after that. Depending on where you live, i can do it for you, if you are afraid to do it yourself. I also do coding and servicing if you are interested. PM me if you have interest in any of the aforementioned.

I can see you are Dutch, so let me be blunt as we Dutchies like to be.... wat wil je nou exact horen dan? The DYI video has been (re) posted several times in this thread. Remove the notches.....flip the connector over.....and reinsert. Instructions have been posted in text, in video. There is nothing else to say.

Yes, however this "fix" only applies for the Superb 3 facelift WITH the Canton system.

Nice write-up. I'd like to add that you need turn the crank in it's rotational direction (clockwise) as it's designed to only turn one way. 2nd thing i would like to add is to make sure you locked the crankshaft in it's correct position in relation to the camshaft position meaning, the camshaft needs to be in TDP. You are able to be on the wrong stroke and lock the crankshaft in the correct position, but in the wrong position for the camshaft. Double check your work that you can lock both in the same position to save yourself from doing double the work 🙂

It's not that i don't understand what you did, it's my inability to explain and get my view across on why this is not a good thing in the long run, from a mechanical perspective. It doesn't matter. Good job non the less! On to the next job 😉

That's great news! Indeed, i didn't go thru the entire thread. I predominantly judge it from a mechanical perspective. I am still unsure how removing "excessive" slack by realigning the sprocket has had 0 adverse effects. Either it was out of time, or it was not. Chain stretch is microns work. Realignment is mm work. Anyhoe, glad it worked out

So, your assumption here is that the camsprocket was able to move, seperate from the camshaft, based of the correlation message? There so many concerns that, i stated a few times now, really require more then just realignment of the camsprocket, relative to the camshaft. If this was the case, the chain would have been slack for a second, meaning the crankshaft was already spinning before the camshaft did which spells disaster for an interference engine. What do you expect was responsible for the sprocket to move? The bolt backing out of the sprocket is only a common issue on the 2.0 tsi. Most commonly on the intake phaser/cam gear side that's oil fed. I hope everything purrs like a kitten again and the issues are resolved.

I think i need to elaborate a bit on this specific issue. If your engine did indeed jump timing by ways of the cold start "death rattle", resetting the cam gear is a bandaid. All your components that keep your timing in check, wear out on each other. Timing chainValve timing.pdfTiming.pdf Camsprocket Chains guides Crank gear Chain tensioner The main purpose of the tensioner is to compensate slack over time. This means, that when (all) components have worn down to the point that chain tensioner can not compensate, you need to replace all hardware as mentioned above. Again, in this engine, the only thing keeping your timing in check, is the tension on the chain. As soon as timing skip has occurred, mechanical components need to be replaced as a whole. You just replace, for instance, the chain tensioner. This will do little for a permanent solution. As this is an interference engine, your timing issue would have most likely created some other issues that require your attention. This is why you HAVE to replace everything in unison. Also as a side note, the bolt used to lock the camsprocket in place is a stretch bolt. This means it's a 1 time use bolt. You are lucky it didn't break inside the camshaft. EDIT: I added the 2 steps that are all that set timing (see red circle). That is the only thing that sets timing. Everything else explained is what keeps timing.

Perhaps i am missing something, it has been a moment since i did this one. Does the camsprocket have an alignement dowl or slot to meet up with the camsfhaft? In otherwords, can the sprocket move independently from the shaft? If it does not, then locking the crankshaft and camshaft does not do anything practical, other then you have the reference mark on the sprocket pointing at certain position. This is applies to the chain and sprocket for the oil pump as well. You can try to align them but there is no timing involved.

Happy Easter @Breezy_Pete What do you mean with tweaked? The value in VCDS (adjustment pre/post chain replacement) does not really do anything as far as i could detect. Using ODIS, this option is not available as a part of the official rebuild procedure as well. It's more of a cleanup value/registry then something the ECU using for correlated live data. There is no real variable timing on the CBZA/CBZA because they lack variable intake and/or exhaust phasers. The only timing is when you align the cams with the camsprocket while the piston and cams are in the correct position. You can set timing marks to see if your camsprocket has moved in relation the camshaft (marking the bolt and sprocket) itself but that's basically it. If it's off by by -5 ~ 5 degrees, your ECU can adjust for this by advancing or pulling timing. If you think your camshaft timing is off, there could be a case for a jumped tooth. Only other condition is that the camshaft bolt lost grip and allowed your camshaft to move out of time. Both instances would instantly be noticable with rough idle, misfires, increased consumption and loss of power....or worse, depending on how much it was able to move.

Even though i follow your logic, this would be a ineffective way of investigating whether you have a leak or not. Pressurizing the system will get you a yes/no answer allot faster without any mess. Cooling system pressure tester Apologies if my forwardness in answering feels harsh. I am a pragmatist at heart. I cannot look into your wallet nor do i know your facilities or capabilities however, i think having this set will expedite this investigation allot. Looking forward to your results.

I have been speedreading thru your topic however, i am trying to understand what the underlying issue is. When you opened up the rad cap with a stone cold engine, you hear pressure rise/vent, or see bubbles rise (air being sucked inwards). Did it happen once, or does it always happen? Does it happen even if the system has not been pressured from driving after the first attempt?

I have been servicing this car since my better half has owned it at 110.00km. From turbo/wastegate refurb to interieur rewiring to ...i don't even know anymore If you are indeed losing coolant at steady pace, this could stem from a number of issues: -Leaking waterpump/thermostat(housing) (almost always) -Leaking inlet manifold (highly likely) -Cracked block (not a know issue) There is ofcourse a myriad of hoses that also microcrack under operating temperatures. Best way to test this is to pressurise the cooling system and let it sit for at least an hour. If it drops, you have an active leak.

Howdy @Breezy_Pete I just stumbled on this topic. The CBZA engine is a very basic and easy to understand and maintain however, as you have noticed, there are many small things that, if not payed attention to, will become an issue over time. I stripped everything down around the block to fix all air and oil leaks, gaskets and everything else that suffers after 250.000 mls/40x.xxxkm's. See my struggles linked below: CBZA refurb If you have any specific question, please reach out. I am pretty sure i have seen it all before. Link to every known POF of the CBZA: CBZA Points of Failure (Activate subtitles)

Well...did you try to see if it has the same connections and if so, did switching the connection upside down do anything? You are better equipped to answer your own question

Thank you @spacelord . I swapped (down) from an MY2020 A6 C8 where the standard system was loads better. I wanted to try and get the same type of options which i sent off with my Audi and i opted to go for the MY2022 L&K Superb IV with the Canton audio "upgrade". Severely disappointed in the audio, but otherwise happy with the car (aside from the comfort and normal suspension setting that has WAY too much rebound on the front). Started to look around for 3rd party solutions and these would run into the 1000's for what i wanted to reflect the former A6 experience. Just by due diligence, i stumbled on this post from a YT video (which i will link below). It really is weird that Canton/Skoda recalled the original owners for this obvious factory mistake of the pinning of the plug. Anyway, a huge thank you to Spacelord yet again and now that the bass is so present in the cabin, i need to do some research in soundproofing the doors as now there is boat loads of reverberation and resonance thru the doorpanels and the boot covers. Superb IV hybrid Canton sound system fix