VitesseEFI

Dodgy cable/connection on the main feed wire? Or same on the engine to chassis earth strap?

Does sound like the pick-up strainer/gauze could be partially blocked. The erratic readings at higher rpm imply pump cavitation. Needs urgent investigation.

That is this system which VAG refer to as “ dynamic oil pressure” (DOP) which does use two switches. https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/threads/flashing-oil-pressure-warning-problems.109439/ This is the system I was fighting in our old Arosa - not sure it’s valid for cars later than early 2000s, but I suspect there are still two switches. The light coming on with 5 mins of a cold start is not because the oil is hot and thin. Possibly because it’s cold and thick and the gauze on the pump pick-up is sludgy - which is a known issue on some VAG engines. More likely instrumentation but needs verification as already discussed!

I’d want to start by determining whether I’m chasing an instrumentation fault (the light telling lies) or a real problem. The only sure way to do this is to temporarily fit a mechanical gauge (into the hole where the switch normally goes) and measure the actual oil pressure. If it’s a real problem then I’d be inclined to suspect a clogged oil pickup strainer because the oil will be thicker when cold. However, I think it more likely it’s an instrumentation fault, and not necessarily the switch. I fought a similar issue on my son’s Arosa a few years ago. Checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge first, which was fine. Swapped the switch, which made no difference. Unfortunately VAG seem to have made it more complex than needed - there was quite a bit of electronics involved, none of which seemed to be broken, but it still turned the light on whenever it felt like it. Ignored it. After a while (months) it stopped doing it. Odd.

Sounds positive. Fingers crossed! Garage deserves credit for taking the hit on costs.

If it’s still working at top speed then it’s more likely the resistor pack than the motor. The crunchy reverse gear engagement and baulking into first suggest that the clutch is dragging at times rather than a gearbox problem. Where are various reasons this might happen. In a car that is lightly used and maybe stands for days at a time it’s possible that there’s a bit of rust on the gearbox input shaft spline stopping the clutch driven plate sliding smoothly on it, meaning it doesn’t always fully release.

Vacuum leak somewhere? Any check engine light?

Thanks Mike. I’ve not done any physical investigations so far. Only the VCDS trawl. I suppose the only physical thing done was the ABS pump “exercise” routine, which does make your second point entirely valid, though I don’t think the car has done much sitting around I do need to go round the brakes corner by corner to check the mechanicals and also do a full fluid change/bleed. I do usually do this because with any car added to the fleet but I’ve been a bit slow on this one due to its apparent decent history and competition from other fleet members!

Traction control now working too. Pleasing, but most odd…… Got me wondering if I’m loosing the plot!

Well, seems that since exercising the ABS pump, the ABS system at least is working normally. Not completely convinced about traction control - further testing required.

Bit late to the party but just to say that I also think this is a timing issue. They are pretty fussy about it. Different animal I know but have had a very similar problem on a 1.9PD which was completely fixed by simply re-timing it. Also of note was that the timing kit I borrowed for this had several combination of tool that appeared to fit but only one that was actually right! Working out which was the chore. Also have to wonder when they are apparently happy to quote £4k to change the pulley which they previously thought was ok..... especially when (as Alasdair has already pointed out) the pulleys are really not expensive. Good luck!

Thank you all so far. Managed to get the elderly and very canterkerous laptop that my VCDS lives on to work long enough to interview the car properly. Very few codes overall (mostly relating to low voltage and intermittent CAN communication issues) and none at all relating to ABS/TC. Full scan attached -it's wonderfully boring! Logging the output from all 4 wheels showed them all to be working and in agreement speed-wise. Doing the output test on the ABS pump provoked a reaction for each corner (pedal vibrates during the "unlocked" part of the test for each wheel), so I'm at a loss to explain why it wouldn't function normally. Will have to go and find an empty gravel car park to do some real world testing to make sure it's not me that's faulty! Scan-TMBHT21Z5C2023429-20260104-1420-185320km-115152mi.txt

Thanks. Will scan properly ASAP. Above seems unlikely as the lights do come one when the ignition is switched on. I know that in the past warning lights “confuser” boxes existed for fooling MoT testers, but in these days of integrated systems it’s probably easier to just fix the ABS problem! Car did come with a stray ABS sensor in the glove box (which measures open circuit), which does imply recent previous work….

Have an emerging issue with my 2011 facelift 1.6TDI. Generally a tidy, seemingly well maintained car. I’ve only owned it since the beginning of November and from quite early on I’ve noticed it seems quite willing to break traction in 1st gear, even second gear in damp conditions. Aside from the separate question of why a puny 1.6 has so much grunt, as I understand it the car has traction control and should be limiting torque to prevent this and also flashing the skid-mark sign on the dash. It doesn’t. If I press the ASR button the “skid” light lights continuously and it behaves in exactly the same way. More worryingly, last night I had to do a full-on emergency stop on a straight, dry road and fully locked all four wheels. No ABS action whatsoever. And yet, here’s the twist, no ABS or traction control warning lights. Though they do come on with the ignition and go out after a few seconds as expected. Also no codes, at least not with a generic reader. (Will look again with VCDS once I’ve convinced the laptop it lives on it’s not dead…..) Seems unexpected that two safety related systems (especially ABS) can be non-functional without any warning lights on - any ideas?

The implausible MAF reading was historical I think and only seen the first time I scanned it after getting the car. Cleared it and it’s stayed away over the last 1,500 plus miles of mixed driving. Fingers crossed it stays away. That said, I’m no fan of EGR on diesels, so curious to know about your EGR delete. Disabled in software but physically present, present but blanked off (gaskets with no hole) or completely removed and blanked off? I blanked off the one on my A6 years ago, which was very easy as it’s old enough that no software changes were needed. With that done and all of the soot accumulation cleared from the intake it picked up 5mpg average…. I realise software changes are 100% needed for this car. Even the ‘05 1.9TDI Octavia and 04 Audi A4 1.9TDI my sons have can detect blanked off EGR….

No flashing glowplug light. Problem appears sorted with new glowplugs. Have reset the light and it’s stayed off. Runs smoother when cold too. Thanks for dongle/app suggestions.

Thanks Alasdair, Don’t recall seeing seeing the ASR/skid mark sign flash up while moving. Think it does come before starting but will look properly next time I’m in it. There is an “ASR defeat” button which I’ve not touched. It can certainly manage wheelspin though. Plenty of steep, narrow, muddy, leaf covered lanes around here. Nearly new Goodyear all-season tyres too. My old A6 is similar but no traction control on that.

ASR….. traction control as I understand it. Doesn’t work very well. If at all. This car has no trouble achieving wheel spin in first or second gears. No warning lights and the ABS works fine. Is this normal?

Thanks for that - I’d not considered the side windows thing. It does indeed put the AC on automatically when demist selections are made; it just doesn’t help much. I’m going to have to get into that area to add the Bluetooth module and wiring so will at least try to identify the various flap servos and whether they are working.

I was also wondering about this but I can’t find any information on how to do it / whether even required on the manual system. Plenty of info on flap setting procedures the Climatronic etc but they don’t transfer across.

I’m finding my 2011 1.6 TDI excellent in most respects but it’s front screen de-misting abilities are, frankly, pathetic. Done a bit of hunting around and it seems that they are a bit notorious for this, but this one is worse than my 67 Triumph Vitesse! Surely should be better than this! It’s a non-climate control car with AC. Symptoms are that typically putting the blower on from cold makes matters far worse and then takes several minutes to even begin to make things better. No wet carpets. Car isn’t especially damp and steamy generally. No coolant smells inside and coolant level hasn’t moved in 1500 miles so I reckon the matrix is ok. AC just serviced and apparently working. Hasn’t helped. Pollen filter checked and yes, it was a bit grim, but not damp. I have given it a good hoovering for now but will replace. Cleaning hasn’t made any noticeable difference. Fan works as expected on all speed settings and flow out the dash vents seems decent enough. Part of the problem seems to be very minimal airflow being directed to the screen even when on the screen only setting (or any other), So possibly some flap stuck or pipe off under the dash? I haven’t yet investigated the condensate drain(s) but it’s on the list. There are signs under the dash of previous activity, apparently unskilled enough to refit all fasteners…. Any pointers or suggestions gratefully received One further question, possibly worthy of a separate thread, is how big a job is it to upgrade to Climatronic? I assume more than just swapping the control panel? Don’t care if single zone only! Thanks Nick

The check engine light kept coming back with the glowplug #4 error so I invested in a set of new Bosch plugs. Fitted without incident on Saturday (done hot) and the light has stayed off since. Smoother when cold too. Old plugs measured from 1 - 4 @ 2.6, 1.2, 1.4 & 16 ohms respectively. So 4 was indeed shot and the others getting weary also. Original Beru /VAG came out and I guess 114k is a decent innings. Also discovered that the reason for an increasing pull to the left under harder braking was caused by this…. ….incorrectly located pad…..😳 Resulting in the need for new pads 🙁 Disappointing as they were almost new. (Disc will go again though). Shows a disturbing lack of competence at the garage where the work was done. Appears to have been MoT’d like this. Also Bluetooth module acquired and cable & microphone ordered. Done about 1400 miles in it now and generally pretty pleased with it. Son has just got himself a 2014 Mk3 estate, also 1.6TDI on 140k.

Thanks. I do have one of these and it works well for streaming music and much less well for phone. I don’t use the phone a lot so no massive urgency. Thanks. I’ll have a look for that. That’s interesting. Feel it could be a bit more than that, but either way I’m content with it as it’s better than expected 🙂 Hmm, I’ve read of this aux socket before, but either I’m blind/daft or mine is too low spec to have it….. Filled up this evening having done 500 miles. Maths on that says 55mpg vs the trip computer 57.2. Close enough. It’s a bit better than the old A6 which managed just over 50 on the last tankful.

Hello all, I’ve recently acquired a 2011 1.6TDI estate as my daily run around. This is my first Skoda, substituting for the 1996 (C4) Audi A6 Avant 2.5TDI I’ve had 22 years which needs a bit of love. My son has previously owned an Octavia 2 in 1.9TDI PD form, which was a tatty example with many issues but always drove well when working; now moved on. Mine is a rather basic spec in boring silver, but does seem to be unmolested and well cared for, with a mere 113k on the clock (A6 currently at 372k!). It drives well. In fact I’m astonished how well it goes and I reckon it would give the A6 (and my other sons ‘04 A4 TDI 130) a run go their money. I’ve not driven a 1.6TDI before, but this has real urgency in 2nd & third especially and I’m suspicious that it may have a “tune” in it. Not sure how I tell though and there are no other signs of fiddling. Economy is good though, or rather it’s sometimes good. I’ve not quite done 500 miles yet and I’m seeing variations over my regular 18 mile “mixed” commute between a best of almost 70mpg and a worst of under 50mpg without any obvious traffic difference. Possibly it’s something to do with DPF regens as it’s definitely done at least one (funny smells, raised idle). It’s also (disappointingly) just put the check engine light on. Something to do with a glow plug fault and also implausible MAF values, but I’m clearly going to invest in a better scan tool (recommendations welcome) as my current cheap old thing won’t give any details or even clear the codes. It still drives perfectly well. Other jobs include finding a full size spare wheel, getting the AC re-gassed and hopefully adding Bluetooth to the Bolero stereo somehow. Doesn’t appear to have any external USB/media socket though? Have done some digging on this excellent site but still lots to learn Cheers Nick

Hello All, Long time lurker but new member. We’ve owned various VWs, Audis and Seats over the years but only just got my first Skoda. This is a 2011 Octavia Estate mk 2 facelift in 1.6TDI form. 113k miles and appears well cared for. Purchased from a small trader in Bristol on Tuesday as an emergency replacement for the C4 A6 2.5 TDI I’ve been running for the last 22 years. Have only done 300 miles so car and quite impressed with how well it goes. Fairly experienced in keeping elderly VAG products running, but going to be encountering some slightly newer tech than I’m used to so may have questions….. Cheers Nick