hubrad

+1.. Far too many drivers either forget or ignore this bit.

Ah, I stand (sit) corrected. Mine's a TSi so I've concentrated on that. Cheers for further clarification, all good information longer term.

If you DIY, have you any official Skoda records for your car? It's usually mentioned there. If you're in the habit of annual changes, which does feel like the better option to me, then you're effectively on Fixed, but as @Warrior193 said above it's xx time orr yy miles, whichever comes sooner. Your description sounds like you're most likely ok. Different grades of oil for the two schedules, but using the longer life (Variable) one and changing more frequently just costs you marginally more.

Owner's manual and infotainment manual are on skoda.co.uk, in the menu go to owner and service then owner's manual. You'll need your VIN. For workshop manuals check out eBay.

Thanks for that snippet of information, @daveo138 , not seen it said anywhere before. When I worked in a garage we always would scribe the mm/yy on a new battery both for information and in case of warranty. If this is ww/yy then mine is still on the original battery at 06/15, which is probably why stop-start is an occasional event these days. Still starting and running fine with no unexplained glitches, so will do a while longer.

If yes they'll often say AUTO on the button, also there's a soft click partway down and up the travel of the button so a gentle press does manual but going past the click does auto.

I've just come back to this thread, and see my last comment link is no longer active.. are links banned, or do I need to redo it?

As @Zelinski said above, keep wiggling.. took me ages as I didn't want to break the pegs and didn't know just which direction to pull them out. On refitting I lubricated the pegs and grommets with Vaseline to hopefully make the job easier next time.

Ah, sorry.. hopefully someone else will be here soon! 👍

Sorry, my Polish is useless, but that looks like System Information, which is a different screen. If you press Menu, do you get options like Sound, Settings, Vehicle? If yes go Vehicle>Setup>Multifunction Display. There I have a list of MFD Settings Obviously this is on my much older unit MIB1, and I've got the English labels!

Hi Paanki, I admit I'm in a my15 Octavia, so probably different, but in my infotainment system I found the OSD on-screen display settings and there's a list of available items. In my car I just scroll up and down between the two. Possibly a similar arrangement on your Scala? Good luck!

Wouldn't you be better going down to an 18 or 17 to get more rubber between you and the road surface? I know it looks different, but..

Good point on the sliders, my old Corolla suffered with that. Re internal seal, it's been a while since I did one so can't exactly remember, but pretty sure at least some had no rubber since early 80s, and the fit was so tight that just a brown mark of surface rust, 0000 wire wool to wipe it off, was enough to seize it all up. Happy to be wrong mind!

I've tried to do it without removing the caliper and, as you say, having to bleed on refitting. Wasted sooo much time over the years.. last time I just went straight to removing it, which is what I had to do in the end every other time!

I've had this a few times over the years with various makes, as I tend to drive somewhat older cars. As your pads wear, so the piston sits progressively further out of the caliper, and when you replace the pads and push the piston back in the teensiest bit of dirt or surface rust interferes with the usually metal to metal fluid-tight movement. You can replace them, as you seem to be heading, or with care you can get the caliper off, remove the piston, CAREFULLY clean it and CAREFULLY reinstall it. More labour but less money and you gain better understanding of how the whole thing works! Hopefully someone will be along soon who will answer your actual question.. good luck either way. Edit: if you remove any muck from the caliper, does it have any identification marks, names or numbers?

Have you tried the charger and iPhone in a different car? If the same result then deffo the charger or phone. Likewise try either a different charger (say, your home one) and if ok then the phone is ok so it's the charger. "Process of elimination"!

Maybe second hand roof bars? Shopping around I got my Thule ones for iirc about 40 quid. Far more uses than just bikes!

If it's blocking regularly it suggests muck in the system, not that surprising on a car of possible 10+ years of age. Perhaps worth accessing and cleaning the reservoir bottle and flushing out the pipes before shelling out for a new jet. I have the same, my15, and (touch wood!) mines not blocked in the 4 1/2 months I've had it.

Following in case of developments. (Hopefully none!)

My my15 is mostly not doing the stop start thing lately, although I'll see if there's any improvement with longer journeys coming up. I keep checking the battery state, generally between 60-80% My battery is at least 5 months old as that's how long I've had the car. When I worked in an electrical garage in the 90s it was standard practice to scribe the date on any news battery; it annoys me how my boss appears to have been the only person to do such a thing! I know the battery age is no guarantee of longevity but it at least gives an indication of the age.

Well, I just went to put something in the boot outside work, and with my hands full i must have inadvertently pressed the remote button for a bit longer than normal.. turns out: Press once = unlock Press = hold = unlock and windows down until you stop pressing Likewise the Lock button: Press once = lock Press + hold = lock and windows up until you stop pressing. There's fancy! With summer on the horizon that's gonna be useful to know.

I know.. I nearly cr@pped myself after a few days of having this car.. a crisp packet blew across the road and triggered the front assist! 😬 Previous car was a 2006 Corolla, which seemed like a pretty good balance of electronic and mechanical. Bit of a culture shock just up to this. Mind you, it does warn me of Possible Icy Roads every time it drops to 4 degrees..

Out of interest, does either the onboard software or VCDS reveal the date of battery fitting? When I worked in an electrical garage some decades ago our standard practice on fitting a battery was to scribe the date on top so there was an easy reference as to its age. Don't think I've ever seen that anywhere else. Also, if fitting a direct replacement EFB battery will that need coding in? I'm new to all this mad software stuff!

To revive the thread, a few years down the line, I came here because I noticed my left hand headlight washer had dropped inside the bumper. Dunno if something had caught on it but hey. Armed with the above information (particular thanks @xpower ) and this yt video on a Superb, I went in. I soon discovered what xpower meant re the two hidden screws.. in case of future need for access, I've put M5 screws going upwards through the threaded bit of the bumper end so it's now a hex nut plus washer on the top but accessible from above or below. Should make life easier. Turns out in my case a plastic weld had failed so the mounting plate was flapping free. It's now held with a bolt behind the fog light, so I'm hoping for no repeat on that. I rather expect that if I'd gone to Skoda it would have meant a new bumper, who knows how many hours labour and probably radar recalibrate as well. Also while moving covers for access I found a number of screws missing (4 of them were jammed into smaller holes for the top of the radiator grille!) so I've ordered more of those from a UK eBay seller (Skoda don't carry screws!!) to get it more back up to scratch. Onwards and upwards!

The metal ring on the nylon cog is the bit that determines the park position, btw. Simple but effective, and still exactly the same as my first car back in the 80s!