hubrad

My Octavia was doing something that sounds very similar, except both sides were actually functioning correctly, just kinda gritty feeling from the driver's position. While hunting around I got to the rear ends of the cables and worked a few sprays of WD in there, followed by a few drops of clean engine oil. The cable ends point upwards, which even with a rubber boot is rather inviting crud to get inside. Assume similar on the Superb Seems to have worked, at least for now, all as quiet as one would hope and the handbrake is still grand. Fingers crossed it's the same for you, OP!

I've had such a thing a few times over the years on various cars, usually after changing brake pads.. this means the pistons being pushed more back into the caliper, and the faintest smear of surface rust has been enough to make it all stick. Glad it's sorted, @chrisski

I use mine more in winter for demist purposes, but it was the hot weather and lack of cooling that made me get it checked over at my regular garage. Iirc it was about 80 or 90 quid for checking over, regas (refrigerant was very low) and pressure test (good) Last recorded Aircon service was August 2023.

If you're DIYing, take one out to check which model is currently fitted.

I've just been through this very issue.. original 2015 battery, so I was pretty sure I'd need to replace it before next winter. I'd already decided I want to keep this car a good while, and I'd be mostly DIY (not had to pay for a battery change for over 30 years), so I invested in a genuine VCDS setup. I've seen a couple of folks on here say they paid GBP 250+ for a battery and coding, so having paid 225 for the vcds (basic, 3-vin version ) then just under a hundred pounds for a larger capacity battery (same size battery would have been a few quid cheaper) I feel ok. Easy to fill in the info for the battery change, then a few days later did the oil and filters change so could reset the service interval. Also easy.. plenty of advice and instruction online. Reckon I've pretty much broken even already. Mine was EFB, so stayed with that.. most advice seems to be that if you already have AGM then stay with that. It may be that someone local to you has the Unlimited VIN version of VCDS and might be up for coding a new battery for beer tokens or similar!

Not something I've heard myself, but sounds like there's something mechanical trying to kick in but not entirely successfully. I'd start at the easy bit, check the battery and charging are ok with AC off. Then measure voltage with it on, and see if there's a correlation between the noise and a voltage drop. Get your AC operation checked over anyway, as you don't want anything seizing and causing further problems. A good mechanic may well just listen and know what is amiss.

Hi all, while dismantling all the covers yesterday for access to apply Lanoguard, I found this block of foam rubber tucked in behind the wing on the UK passenger side. No sign of such a thing on the driver's side, and it's so firmly held up at the top that I guess you'd have to remove the wing panel to get it fully out.. always a possibility with an 11 yrs old car. Seems like some kind of noise reducing thingy? Anyhoo I sprayed behind it and pushed it back into place before reinstalling the wheel arch liner.

Was that battery voltage on the car or off? If it's that low off the car it's faulty. That low on the car suggests some drain that needs investigating. Regarding VCDS, if you're planning on keeping the car (or at least staying with VAG cars) for more than a couple of years it works out cheaper than the OBD11 annual subscription. Seems like a good investment if you're going to be mostly DIY.

Hi there, any joy on this? On my mk.3 the limit appears to be about 30mph (probably actually some figure in km/h) but I'd love to be able to change it. I started looking down the list in VCDS, German dictionary in hand(!), but not found anything yet. It's quite probably a safety feature and no override, but like you I live in an area with loads of narrow roads and corner-cutting eejits!

I missed your sunroof reference, sorry.. if there's anything plastic you probably need to watch for mineral oils and more solvent things, but I'm sure such lubricants are easy to find.

WD-40 is great for freeing up seized or sticking bits, but I'd use heavier stuff such as engine oil in locks, probably similar or lighter grease as you said in hinges, by way of routine maintenance. Smear of vaseline for electrical contacts.

You mean in the infotainment? VCDS it is, then. Again mk.3, but here's one thread on here.. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/484250-headlight-wash-vcds-coding/ If you don't want to go down that road, ask at your dealer, or maybe another NZ member has vcds and is moderately local to you.

I'm on mk.3.. I just got VCDS, and while having a first exploration I'm pretty sure there's one or two settings in there for the headlamp washers. If no VCDS, Might be something in the infotainment menus.

Mine is early.. battery is week 6, 15.

I'm on 1.4TSi petrol. As my battery is the original 2015 I know it's worth keeping an eye on it, and mostly it sits between 60 and 80 percent even first thing in the morning, occasionally pops up to 90 after a long motorway trip Just occasionally I look in the morning to find it reading "SOC 0%", which awakes a little frisson of panic, but it starts and runs beautifully with no problems beside the usual of the stop-start not always kicking in. I assume it is just a glitch, but has anyone else come across this?

Hi again, back on the right laptop now, so here goes.. it was on here all along! Go to this overall thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/#comment-3567267 Then in the first post, which has the menu of adaptations, click on Enabling both rear fog lights and follow what's said there. i read something recently which referred to UK service personnel needing to change the foglight side for the continental roads, so I wonder if perhaps some previous owner of yours either disabled them completely or did it wrongly.

From what I understand so far re VCDS, it's working the computer switching, so sounds like your bulb and wiring are ok. Onto the switch, then.. amazing how a little bit of muck can interfere with such things. It seems unlikely to me that the rear fog would have been disabled, unless someone was messing with VCDS and saved the wrong setting - I was looking for information and there certainly is a setting for both/left/right/none. I'll need my laptop history to check, but it was either on here or Ross tech forum. If you already have it (just ordered mine by way of a very late birthday present) you'll be able to check.

Excellent work.. I've used similar for the last couple of cars, ground clearance seems to be such a passé idea. Length of decking timber for each ramp, and a suitable reinforcing piece halfway along the length. Could well be the same model of ramps! 👍

I was intrigued, so just had a look. Bear in mind this is 2015 Elegance so might be different to your 2016 Greenline. As @Breezy_Pete said, the fog H21W comes on but dimmer as a sidelight, as does the brake P21W.. FOUR rear sidelights! P21W goes to full brightness when brake pedal pressed, and H21W goes to full brightness when fog switched on. The 5W sides stay on. I then took the H21W out to simulate a blown bulb, then very briefly got a message on the MFD to "Check rear right fog light". That message disappeared after a few seconds, but a little yellow triangle remained on the dash, and in the Car bit of the screen the warning remained , although I had to go looking for it. Edit: Top.. yellow triangle on dash Mid: fog and sides Bottom: sides only Those three pics filled the 10MB upload limit, was going to put up a pic of the screen for completeness, but we know what that looks like!

My 2015 Elegance has a separate bulb for rear fog, H21W which I'd never seen before.

Could be the bulb (always my first choice!), wiring, fuse, switch, and of course nowadays possibly even a tick not in a box in the software! I'm still looking at the bulb first.. dunno if it gets flagged up for you in a 2016.

If it's just a flat fob battery, have you tried a new battery? Ought not to be flat, but I can imagine replacement fobs sitting on a shelf for a fair while.

Ah, yes, not so much snow there! 😀 You're on quite different size to mine.. maybe either your specific model or an Australian spec? I've got 205/55/16 for the cold season and 225/45/17 for warmer times. 0.1 inch different. Your 225/40/19 are over an inch larger diameter, so I can imagine that being more problematic. Mind you, even a space saver has to be the same diameter or it would be like wearing only one shoe! Tire Size Comparison https://share.google/k2U9g6Mk0cILPBvc5

I'm in a mk.3, but the principle is the same. I bought a used alloy wheel matching the existing four,, as even a steel full-size attracts a 50mph limit because of changing the balance of the car. Outside diameter will be pretty much the same otherwise your speedometer reading will be off, so most anything recommend will fit in the space. Try one of your existing road wheels in the well. It'll give you an idea of any difference in boot floor height due to tyre width. In my mk.3 I've got no real difference in floor height using 'standard' sizes for the car. If the floor gets lifted a bit you can just pack it accordingly.. I was going to make a wooden frame but ended up not feeling the need.

Anti-roll bar bushes seem to be a frequent VAG thing.. took mine, with a suspension creak on uneven bits like speed bumps, to my regular MOT garage who said they'd seen it on a number of VAG cars. If it gets too annoying the bushes can be changed, but if there's no play they will pass MOT.