whitedot

PS mine looks exactly like this. I suppose I got lucky when I bought it. 🤣

As I understand it virtually any ODB2 scanner can read and clear fault codes for cars before 2024, which is when VAG added additional security measures. Mine is a basic wifi ELM327 device that I bought for £6.50 nearly a decade ago. I've used it with a free Android app called Car Scanner ELM OBD2 to read and clear the codes on our 2016 Fabia Mk3 (and my 2011 BMW). I even used it the other day to register a new battery, though I paid the optional £5 upgrade to the pro version of the app before doing so. It would have been fine even on the free version as far as I know, but I felt like making a donation to the developer. There were a lot of 'at your own risk' warnings but I took a punt and it was fine. The developer of that app has some recommendations on ELM327 devices here: https://www.carscanner.info/choosing-obdii-adapter/ Being able to reset service lights, easily/properly code optional changes and run bidirectional tests (remote actuation of motors and locks etc) are all additional features, and as you mentioned typically require a more expensive device and/or subscription fees. Have a look here: https://iamcarhacker.com/ I didn't bother in the end as my old thing worked fine, but I was considering the Vgate iCar Pro 2S (£30 from Amazon) to use with the app above. For bidirectional testing and resetting service lights I was looking at the Xtool A30D (£63 on eBay with 20% code that runs out later today), that one doesn't need a subscription. It doesn't do coding though. That website above recommends the Mucar BT200 Max (also £63 with eBay code today) which can do bidirectional testing and reset service lights, doesn't need a subscription, and apparently also can act as a basic ELM327 device with some apps, so you could in theory use the free app I mentioned for coding - at your own risk. If it works. Probably the easiest and best supported alternative to all this is to just buy an OBDEleven and cancel the subscription once you've done what you want/need to. They use a credits system for doing coding I believe, and currently have an offer on with 200 credits (no idea what this is 'worth') for about £60. I believe you can do bidirectional testing with it too, but I don't know if this requires a live subscription, credits or what. Hope this helps. As you may tell, I did a lot of reading on all this myself over the last couple of weeks...

Check the cabin filter (passenger footwell) for condition and fit, ours was full of crap and missing the retaining clip so most of the airflow was just going straight downwards, to the easiest path. I replaced the filter with a new one and got a used clip from eBay.

Touché. Thanks for your help on this, really appreciate it. 👍

Yeah that was my first thought (fuse 22), but surely surely SHIRLEY anyone with the knowledge and ability to do this extra wiring and know it would work, would just check the fuses before doing so???

Just checked it (Saturday night excitement in a head torch 🤣), not blown. Certainly worth a look though. Would the relay throw an OBD fault if bad? Anyway the next steps I think would be: Try to eliminate the dodgy wire and assuming the original wiring is still present, connect it back up to the pump as it should be. Disconnect battery to reset BCM. See what happens and/or if fault codes appear. Potentially replace relay in position A1.

Actually doesn't look that hard.

Nice one, cheers. I believe the relays are difficult to get to due to their location (as you posted above), which could explain why this bodge has been carried out in the first place. Saves the cost and effort of swapping the relay, at the penalty of losing the rear washer. But passes an MOT...

So that explains why I only get the pump operational in one direction with this daft wire in place, yeah? It doesn't have the ability to pass the 0v state? Just floating (nothing) or 12V, which makes it run 'normally', which you would expect to be the front windscreen. Is this correct? Apologies, I've no experience with electrics. Yorkshire.

Brilliant, thanks for these diagrams. I'm not going to pretend I can read them properly, but I can definitely use them. Yep, the green/violet wire has been bypassed/replaced by a run of wire (bisected with a fuse piece), which runs from [I think] the A/C pressure sensor connector near the coolant tank, directly to the washer pump.

Yep, I cleaned the terminal clamps thoroughly with a wire brush, inside and out. 👍 Think I mentioned in the OP, we've not seen any evidence of other electrical issues apart from crap DAB reception, which has a fault on the antenna shorting to ground (not uncommon for the antenna base to fail from water ingress, I believe). I've not seen any other crappy wiring elsewhere. This one shocked me to see if I'm honest.

No, none.

[nothing 4F*] 4K3 Central locking w/ radio remote control, interior controls and SAFELOCK 4KC Side and rear windows in heat-insulating glass 4L2 Breakaway interior rearview mirror, dimming 4LC Controls for radio and telephone 6K2 Forward collision warning incl. autonomous emergency braking, without adaptive cruise control 6KJ Radiator grille with chrome molding

It's a low pressure fault, B10ABF0. As you say, could well be unrelated, but I'm dubious at this point. 🤣 I don't understand what problem this bodge could have been looking to resolve - surely not just the blown fuse 22?!?! But at this point I'm thinking of just putting it back how it should be and seeing what happens. The bit I'm not sure on is where the stock wiring for the pump is meant to be, before the connector. I got fed up battling the wheel arch liner (didn't take it off fully) so I didn't have a really close look at what has been done with it. Does it just appear from the same loom that carries the fluid hoses back up?

Well I've started to get to the bottom of almost certainly what's causing the weird error message and dodgy washer behaviour. Changed and coded a new battery this morning, no difference. So I got in behind the wheel arch liner intending to replace the pump as my next step, only to find that the washer pump cable has been replaced by splicing a new bit of wiring into what I think is the A/C pressure sensor, and running it to the pump. The A/C incidentally is also throwing an OBD fault relating to pressure, which presumably could be be related. Absolutely baffled as to how this bodged setup 'works' for the front by happily operating the pump in one direction just fine. But clearly isn't how it's meant to be wired up!

Hi mate, sorry for bumping an old thread, but I'm considering taking this on. Our DAB reception is pants and the car reports a fault code suggesting the antenna needs replacing. Did you have to remove the entire headliner to get to the aerial fixing, or can it be reached with just the rear pillar trims out? Ours is an estate so it looks like there is a second set to take out.

After doing some more research I've decided to just replace the pump (and car battery, which is the original from 2016) and see what happens. I'm relatively convinced the pump is faulty but not fully broken, which may explain why the fuse was blown but replacing it has had no effect. Would also suggest the BCM is getting an unexpected response hence the incorrect wiping pattern and starter error message. If no joy, my next idea is to buy an OBD2 scanner with bidirectional control so I can try and activate the pump without using the stalk at all. This should help determine if it's the stalk, BCM or wiring somewhere is to blame.

@bris24 @s88urd Did you manage to resolve this problem? Our car has poor DAB reception and is throwing the same fault code.

It's definitely the original battery. It's a Banner model that isn't in production any more, and is embossed in multiple places with a manufacture date of week 33 2016 which is two weeks before the car left the factory (I have the build data from VIN). After reading up a bit more on how stop/start systems maintain the battery charge level, I decided not to buy a new battery - for now at least. I'm convinced the issue is the stalk, which I intend to swap out to retrofit cruise anyway. So I'll pick it up as part of getting the replacement stalk coded, should the washer still not work. Thanks for your help, I'll update the thread if/when I get a resolution.

Yeah it dropped to about 11v I think (certainly not under 10v), only tried it once though. Stop/start is working fine too btw.

Checked the battery with no ignition, reading was 12.5v. After running the lights for a few minutes then testing again it was 12.3v rising to about 12.4v. With the car running it was 13-14v. Not sure if this means it's fine or not, I'm reading conflicting info online about whether it needs charging or replacing. The fuse under the bonnet mentioned by @nta16 is intact. Still tempted to buy a new battery anyway given it's over nine years old, but I'm not convinced it's anything to do with the rear wiper or the error message with the ignition off. I think it's the stalk which is a) not doing what it should, and b) doing what it shouldn't. So a new battery wouldn't make any difference to that anyway.

Thanks, yeah I've done a fair few little maintenance jobs already and have a copy of the owner's manual PDF (and saved links to the workshop manuals etc). I came across that video when looking into how to get the stalks off to retrofit cruise control, this was before we noticed the rear washer issue and I saw your post when searching. So I may end up swapping the stalks for new (old) ones anyway. Cheers.

@rum4mo Not tested it yet but had a look this morning and it's the original battery from factory, with week 33 2016 embossed on it. So I guess it's well due for replacement anyway.

20% discount code on Tanya Batteries eBay store (and a few other places) until 2nd December, if anyone else is needing a battery. They don't appear to have put their eBay prices up to skim the discount like a lot of sellers do.

Thanks for the reply, I'll stick my multimeter on the battery. Now you mention it, I've noticed the clocks and interior lights aren't a perfectly constant brightness. There's a very subtle fluctuation from time to time (Mrs hasn't noticed it) that I guess could be a sign of the battery being shot.