whitedot

Yeah that was my first thought (fuse 22), but surely surely SHIRLEY anyone with the knowledge and ability to do this extra wiring and know it would work, would just check the fuses before doing so???

Just checked it (Saturday night excitement in a head torch 🤣), not blown. Certainly worth a look though. Would the relay throw an OBD fault if bad? Anyway the next steps I think would be: Try to eliminate the dodgy wire and assuming the original wiring is still present, connect it back up to the pump as it should be. Disconnect battery to reset BCM. See what happens and/or if fault codes appear. Potentially replace relay in position A1.

Actually doesn't look that hard.

Nice one, cheers. I believe the relays are difficult to get to due to their location (as you posted above), which could explain why this bodge has been carried out in the first place. Saves the cost and effort of swapping the relay, at the penalty of losing the rear washer. But passes an MOT...

So that explains why I only get the pump operational in one direction with this daft wire in place, yeah? It doesn't have the ability to pass the 0v state? Just floating (nothing) or 12V, which makes it run 'normally', which you would expect to be the front windscreen. Is this correct? Apologies, I've no experience with electrics. Yorkshire.

Brilliant, thanks for these diagrams. I'm not going to pretend I can read them properly, but I can definitely use them. Yep, the green/violet wire has been bypassed/replaced by a run of wire (bisected with a fuse piece), which runs from [I think] the A/C pressure sensor connector near the coolant tank, directly to the washer pump.

Yep, I cleaned the terminal clamps thoroughly with a wire brush, inside and out. 👍 Think I mentioned in the OP, we've not seen any evidence of other electrical issues apart from crap DAB reception, which has a fault on the antenna shorting to ground (not uncommon for the antenna base to fail from water ingress, I believe). I've not seen any other crappy wiring elsewhere. This one shocked me to see if I'm honest.

No, none.

[nothing 4F*] 4K3 Central locking w/ radio remote control, interior controls and SAFELOCK 4KC Side and rear windows in heat-insulating glass 4L2 Breakaway interior rearview mirror, dimming 4LC Controls for radio and telephone 6K2 Forward collision warning incl. autonomous emergency braking, without adaptive cruise control 6KJ Radiator grille with chrome molding

It's a low pressure fault, B10ABF0. As you say, could well be unrelated, but I'm dubious at this point. 🤣 I don't understand what problem this bodge could have been looking to resolve - surely not just the blown fuse 22?!?! But at this point I'm thinking of just putting it back how it should be and seeing what happens. The bit I'm not sure on is where the stock wiring for the pump is meant to be, before the connector. I got fed up battling the wheel arch liner (didn't take it off fully) so I didn't have a really close look at what has been done with it. Does it just appear from the same loom that carries the fluid hoses back up?

Well I've started to get to the bottom of almost certainly what's causing the weird error message and dodgy washer behaviour. Changed and coded a new battery this morning, no difference. So I got in behind the wheel arch liner intending to replace the pump as my next step, only to find that the washer pump cable has been replaced by splicing a new bit of wiring into what I think is the A/C pressure sensor, and running it to the pump. The A/C incidentally is also throwing an OBD fault relating to pressure, which presumably could be be related. Absolutely baffled as to how this bodged setup 'works' for the front by happily operating the pump in one direction just fine. But clearly isn't how it's meant to be wired up!

Hi mate, sorry for bumping an old thread, but I'm considering taking this on. Our DAB reception is pants and the car reports a fault code suggesting the antenna needs replacing. Did you have to remove the entire headliner to get to the aerial fixing, or can it be reached with just the rear pillar trims out? Ours is an estate so it looks like there is a second set to take out.

After doing some more research I've decided to just replace the pump (and car battery, which is the original from 2016) and see what happens. I'm relatively convinced the pump is faulty but not fully broken, which may explain why the fuse was blown but replacing it has had no effect. Would also suggest the BCM is getting an unexpected response hence the incorrect wiping pattern and starter error message. If no joy, my next idea is to buy an OBD2 scanner with bidirectional control so I can try and activate the pump without using the stalk at all. This should help determine if it's the stalk, BCM or wiring somewhere is to blame.

@bris24 @s88urd Did you manage to resolve this problem? Our car has poor DAB reception and is throwing the same fault code.

It's definitely the original battery. It's a Banner model that isn't in production any more, and is embossed in multiple places with a manufacture date of week 33 2016 which is two weeks before the car left the factory (I have the build data from VIN). After reading up a bit more on how stop/start systems maintain the battery charge level, I decided not to buy a new battery - for now at least. I'm convinced the issue is the stalk, which I intend to swap out to retrofit cruise anyway. So I'll pick it up as part of getting the replacement stalk coded, should the washer still not work. Thanks for your help, I'll update the thread if/when I get a resolution.

Yeah it dropped to about 11v I think (certainly not under 10v), only tried it once though. Stop/start is working fine too btw.

Checked the battery with no ignition, reading was 12.5v. After running the lights for a few minutes then testing again it was 12.3v rising to about 12.4v. With the car running it was 13-14v. Not sure if this means it's fine or not, I'm reading conflicting info online about whether it needs charging or replacing. The fuse under the bonnet mentioned by @nta16 is intact. Still tempted to buy a new battery anyway given it's over nine years old, but I'm not convinced it's anything to do with the rear wiper or the error message with the ignition off. I think it's the stalk which is a) not doing what it should, and b) doing what it shouldn't. So a new battery wouldn't make any difference to that anyway.

Thanks, yeah I've done a fair few little maintenance jobs already and have a copy of the owner's manual PDF (and saved links to the workshop manuals etc). I came across that video when looking into how to get the stalks off to retrofit cruise control, this was before we noticed the rear washer issue and I saw your post when searching. So I may end up swapping the stalks for new (old) ones anyway. Cheers.

@rum4mo Not tested it yet but had a look this morning and it's the original battery from factory, with week 33 2016 embossed on it. So I guess it's well due for replacement anyway.

20% discount code on Tanya Batteries eBay store (and a few other places) until 2nd December, if anyone else is needing a battery. They don't appear to have put their eBay prices up to skim the discount like a lot of sellers do.

Thanks for the reply, I'll stick my multimeter on the battery. Now you mention it, I've noticed the clocks and interior lights aren't a perfectly constant brightness. There's a very subtle fluctuation from time to time (Mrs hasn't noticed it) that I guess could be a sign of the battery being shot.

To clarify since some other searching suggests it may be a sign of an issue with the battery, this warning does not come up at any other time to my knowledge. Only when pushing the washer stalk back with ignition off. There's also some mechanical sound from the front of the car when it's happening, not sure where that's coming from (washer pump??). Otherwise, stop/start works fine when driving, and the car has been used for some decent 30min+ run outs since we got it. Mystifying.

Hi all, just joined the forum today as part of trying to figure out why the rear washer on our new (to us) 2016 Fabia estate SE doesn't work. It's a manual with 1.2 TSI petrol engine. The rear wiper motor works, and both the washer and wipers at the front work fine. When pressing the stalk all the way back, there's no sound whatsoever from the pump. With the stalk in the normal on position, the wiper goes constantly instead of intermittently. Based on comments and experience elsewhere I am thinking the stalk may be corroded inside etc. Fuse 22 was blown but replacing that hasn't helped. However as part of messing about with it I've noticed that if I push the stalk back to the washer position with the ignition turned off, the airbag lights on the dash light up, there's a warning beep and the MFD says 'Start system faulty! Workshop'. This goes away when I release the stalk. There's no issue at all with the starting system in normal use, and I've not come across any other electrical issues so far apart from a dead interior reading light. The car has a normal key turn start, not keyless or button start. Has anyone else come across this? Is it likely to be a sign of a wider electrical issue, such as a faulty BCM?

Thanks! I made another post after that one, the penetrant didn't seem to work. Your comment about the BCM makes me think the error message might be related now...

Just tried firing some GT85 in as per the reply above, didn't make any difference but I noticed that if I press the stalk back with the ignition off the airbag lights on the dash come on and there's a warning beep and 'Starter system faulty! Workshop'. The car starts up perfectly fine, so no idea what that's about. Apologies for hijacking your thread but the wiper being on constantly instead of intermittent, along with the fuse being blown and that weird error message, all seems to confirm the stalk isn't doing what it should. I'll make a thread in the right place if/when I get it sorted, because at this time of year you definitely need the rear washer.