koditzadispater

AFAIK ventilated seats are standard in VRS, regardless of the materials used. As for your question, the ventilation is rather weak, on 3 you can hear it more than feel it. For me is usually enough, though I would have liked a 5 or at least 4

IIRC, try adding your desired setting on Individual and then use that mode. You still have a change to do, from Normal to individual, but still better.

Hi there, The boot liner for 7 seater is made in such a way that you can use it both for 5 and 7 seats. It allows you to individually put up the 6th and the 7th seats, or put them both down. The original one I mean, no idea about the aftermarket ones, though I did not see anything of good quality unless almost as expensive as the original one. Now, for this kind of car, you should go with the original, it is well made. Not sure I can sau the same about mudguards, but that is a different story... Cheers!

@davegr it was never my intention to be hostile or aggresive, or anything similar for that matter. However, if I appeared to be so, I do apologise, I know written communication can sometimes lack depth.

@davegr you're the only one attacking people - I decided to ignore your reply to my posts as it had nothing to do with the discussion. All the others have discussed based on the topic, in direct relation to the feature being discussed. As @Evolution13 put it, you just go after each phrase you disagree with and complain people have an attitude if they have a different opinion. We are here to discuss cars and share experiences, if yours are different, that is OK, but understand that what you dislike or see in a certain way other people might like and see in a totally different way. It is not about being right or wrong, it is abut learning how to use stuff, if you want, or disable/not use it, if you don't. Oh, and let's all remember this topic was about range...

The systems are meant to help / assist you, not replace you, this is why you are responsible. You need to constantly pay attention, take all the actions and look everywhere, not only to keep your hands on the wheel. The fact that it surprised you means you were disconnected, probably chatting and not focusing on what the car is doing.

I was driving from Romania to France, I believe it's better to use ACC and have your foot rested and allowing you to focus on driving than not use the automation and be tired and distracted. The problem with the automation is whn you stop paying attention to driving, not when you use it to keep your car speed steady.

I need to disagree. I had the predictive thing on and it drove me crazy, I wanted to keep it at 100 KMPH and the damn thing reset to 130, since I was on a highway. It was night, foggy and snowing, with slush already on the road, so I did not want to go 130. Ended up not using the CC at all. Then I searched the web, found the solution, went to the car and disabled the predictive thing. Now, if I use travel mode, it will adjust to the road speed signs, as it sees them, w/o preparing for it, as in slowing before the sign. If I use ACC, it will keep the speed I set, no matter the road signs, but still keep the distance from the car in front. This is what I wanted. Travel mode is way more than just steering, it can also be used in slow traffic, as it will stp and start the car from standstill, keep the distance from the car in front, keep you at the speed limit etc. Why do you think VAG would put options doing the exact same thing, safe for assist steering? This is what Google gives you - what I explained is Option 2: Option 1: Complete ACC Deactivation (Stalk Method) Push the cruise control lever on the left side of the steering column all the way away from you until it "clicks" into the off position. Option 2: Deactivate Predictive Elements (Infotainment Method) Open Driving Assistance on the central screen. Select ACC. Toggle "Road layout preview" (corners, roundabouts) and "Speed limit preview" (signs) to off. Temporary Cancelation Tap the brake pedal. Push the lever slightly away from you (not to the full click). Permanent Deactivation To disable PCC permanently for all trips, it must be switched off in the driving assistance settings menu. Switching to Regular Cruise Control Some models allow switching to standard cruise control by holding the distance button on the stalk/steering wheel.

Hi there, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with doing their own tire rotation and/or tire work. I am particularly asking about front and rear jacking points, not about the standard sills reinforced jacking points, as I am using a floor hydraulic jack and stands, which maked the sills lifting not an option - that is where I want to place the stand. Nothing useful on the Internet and the manual is a joke. Appreciate any experience you can share on this. Thanks!

@Hand88 stay away from Skoda PHEV, I see 90% of the second hand market as PHEVs, this should tell you enough, and if you need more, read through the forum. Most of the issues are with PHEVs. If you want a Kodiaq, buy a ICE one, if you want a PHEV, look elsewhere.

There is a thing called predictive whatever, you can use the ACC like in older cars, just keeping the spped you set and the distance to the car in front. Travel mode is adjusting to road speed limit, and that is indeed dangerous, I thik it is best used in heavy traffic, not much else.

If it is Waze-related, check the Waze options menu. The speed flasing and audible warnings can be turned off for sure, I use Waze and have them off.

I drive a VRS and can confirm that during winter, when using AH, it was clearly not OK, brakes being like stuck, sound clearly coming from brakes when moving from a stop. All this changed as soon as the temperature went up, so I guess it's just the brakes quality. Will see the next winter and have it investigated, if still an issue.

@Tom-Kodiaq Seems this thread was hijacked, so I would like to reply to your original question, after reading through it. I live in Romania, Bucharest, we use metric system as well, I own a VRS and has almost 6k KM since December 2025. Here is the fuel consumption I've seen so far: highway driving at low speed (90-100 KMPH) - 6-7 L / 100KM highway driving at normal speed (130 KMPH) - 8-9 L / 100 KM highway driving at high speed (180 KMPH) - 16-17 L / 100 KM highway driving at very high speed (225 KMPH) - 23-24 L / 100 KM city driving at night (occasional red lights, very low traffic, 50-70 KMPH) - 9-10 L / 100 KM city driving during the day (regular traffic, 40 KMPH on average) - 12-13 L / 100 KM city driving during the day (heavy traffic, less than 25 KMPH on average) - 15-16 L / 100 KM There is also a matter of how light your foot is, my wife is more gentle and sometimes manages 1-2 L / 100 KM less than me, in heavy traffic, as she pulls out slower, leaves bigger gaps, but only sometimes. The other factors, like temperature (colder means more fuel needed), driving mode (I'd advise against any mode other than default Normal - Comfort/Snow/Offroad only if the road condition requires it and Sport only if you need to overtake and feel the need for it). I tried Eco and the saving is minimal, while the car feels gutless, and this from a VRS. I previously owned a Tiguan Allspace, driving modes assessment was the same, just the fuel consumption was a bit better, as that had 190 BHP, still the same 2.0 L petrol engine. 4x4 is not a factor, as these cars are not real 4x4s, this is electronically controlled, mostly FWD uless you demand it otherwise or the computer deems some power is needed on the back wheels. as @aronisk put it, a car weighing over 2T is not eary to move and will always have a relatively high consumption. Also, this is not a car for city driving. We have it as a vacation car, and use it 1-2 times a week to make sure it gets moved. For city driving, especially if you live in a house, an EV is the best option, or, if you live in an apartment building, like me, a HEV is the next best choice (Corolla, Yaris, Prius) - only if you make the KM to justify the increase in purchase cost. If not, stick to a smaller vehicle, petrol engine, NA if possible and you should get no more than 7-8 L / 100 KM in heavy traffic (our daily driver is a Mazda 3, getting that or even better). Hope it helps.

This sounds very strange to me, and I have all the safety features on. I would suggest you disable the auto hold (if you have it on) and manoeuver very gently when parking. Saying this as in both cars I own (Skoda and Mazda), when fast manouvering they slammed on the brakes.