koditzadispater

https://www.carscanner.info/choosing-obdii-adapter/ this might help, though a very long one

Hi there, Not sure what country you're from, as in EEU there are cheaper and still good options. I have 2 Mio dashcams and a DDPAI. I can recommend both, though I would go with Mio, if it's your first dashcam, because: cost: cheaper, value for money, does a lot for what you pay (~50 to 100 EUR, mines were ~75 EUR each) user-friendly: easy to install, accepts a variety of cards (though high endurance are recommended, I ran even a regular cheap 8 GB one and had zero issues with it), simple menu, easy to remove the card. features: some have even wireless connection, image quality is very good, takes even 256 GB card. DDPAI looks better, is a bit more expensive, hard to remove the card and it cannot be removed, as opposed to Mio, both can be removed. Newer Mio models have the support that cannot be removed, but the camera can still be removed. Two things though: high end products: not worth the money; yes, the image may be slightly better, but unless you really put your money (200-250 EUR) into a very good action camera, usually the ones for bikes are better, it will not capture all that you expect it to capture (license plates for incoming traffic, details at night, objects in direct light/reflecting light) simply because they are not meant for that and the FPS is not enough. about using a dashcam: the best way to use it is to have a decent quality one, set for highest FPS that it can ran, even if that lowers the resolution (4K usually runt at 30FPS, while you're better at 2K and 60 FPS); when something happens, say out loud the details, like license plate, car model, color, driver details, etc, as they are captured by your eyes and stored by the card, while later you will struggle to remember these details, and this makes the camera not capturing the license plate less relevant. Regarding the USB-C connector in the center console (rear view mirror), I saw some discussions here that it will not always power up the camera with just the cable, so you should consider using a small adapter. So from USB-C port from the car, even if you buy an USB-C camera, you might need this adapter, like in the post above. Try first without, but keep in mind, should that not work. Hope it helps. Cheers!

Hi there, most OBD scanners will be able to do that, even cheap (10 EUR) ones. I'd say drive it a bit see if it goes away in a week, if not, check the web and product description for an OBD that can remove error codes As long as the brakes work, no worries about it.

You need to be a few meters away and it will lock. You can see that from the mirrors or at least the turn signal lights. It needs to be enabled in the car menu, search for kessy. I believe by default is on.

Too bad in UK they show packages down your throat. I completely understand what you mean, the ability to option only what I want is what made me buy my Kodiaq now and my Tiguan previously (we still get to choose in RO, at least for VW and Skoda, not sure about the other VAG brands). Not many options for you, I guess, as most of the manufacturers have the same approach. I am buyng a Mazda, where (at least in RO) they have tri levels, and you could maybe find soemthing that works for you. My biggest issue is I absolutely do not want glass above my head, but I like most of the other things, so if I want a Toyota, I must have the glass thing, or have no nice sound system, no advanced lights, no 360 cameras, no leather seats. This is where Mazda was able to put forward more trims granulating the options and thus made me a happy customer, hardly waiting for my 3 in a couple of months now. It is not impossible to find what you want in the used market, keep looking, you'll find people having the same preferences, granted not many. And do tell us what you ended up with. Best of luck!

I am actually arguing that AEB should be kept on, please don't get me wron, the message you quoted was from a question I asked abother member rejecting the car due to AEB. I was pointing out most modern car have it by default, just checked the Volvo cofiguratior for RO and it has it. Regarding your question, actually do know, for a passenger vehicle on a dry surface you need 65 meters of breaking distance at 100 kmph, and you need to add reaction time, which can lead to even 100 meters. So yeah, I know, I "always" keep enough distance from the car in front of me. There are rare occasions when I approach a slower vehicle that is moving out of the way, in which case I lift off or even break a bit. One thing people do not factor in this AEB issue is the entitlement most of the drivers these days feel and act upon. Everyone drives like owning the road, like a F1 champ in a last lap championship winning battle. They accelerate and try to block whoever is trying to overtake them, resulting in driving closer to the one in front of you and keeping someone in your ass. Doing so reasults in being rear ended, even without AEB. Personally, if I see someone closing in fast, I move and let that person go, trying to keep as much distance laterally as possible. This and getting older and understanding the risks and the gains made me feel safer, drive slower, allow time and space. Simply put, I rarely risk and I try to take only calculated, small risks on short time and distance. When young, I drove from home to work, 14-15 KM throughout the city in 15 minutes, like a madman. Later I realized that driving normally takes 20 minutes or so and the risks are way smaller. For 5 minutes, it's not worth the risks you take. Same for "who is right" - you might lose 5-10 seconds yealding when you have the right of way, vs being stubborn and causing an accident, where you are not liable, but you lose hours, not to mention money. Keep distance, by courteous towards the others, cut them some slack, think before acting, be the bigger person. I try, succeed most of the time. I guess I'm human after all.

Funnily enough, I drove through almost half of Istanbul (some 50 KM +) with a plastic bag in front of my car, had no issue, and Turks are not keeping a lot of distance, this is why I, the one driving, do my best to keep a good distance. Not saying it can't be an issue, I guess it's ultimately about choosing the lesser evil.

If new, it has AEB as default feature. Only if you buy previously owned and go back before 2014 you might get one without. And then you have other problems. But the choice is yours. Your money, your car.

Just out of curiosity, let us know what car you're gonna buy. Very curious to see the one without this.

the battery is not the biggest concern, security is. but you do you

Oh, I fully agree, I have no dout about the fact that Skoda rushed to put this into production/sale, as I mentioned in my comment, the PHEV satisfaction percentage is abysmal. It is possible this is affecting only PHEVs and this is why I did not experience this and there aren't consistent reports about this from the owners in general. Still, I find it hard to believe that something this critical, especially at higher speeds, would be completely missed. Think of the car tests and even the motoring journalists - even if the dealers would hide this (I doubt it, maibe I'm naive, I hope it will not be the case, as Ford is a brand I would never buy because of what they did, I'd hate to add Skoda to the list), can it be possible that all the people testing the car, people not affiliated with Skoda, can cover this? The chances are this is not a feature, but a defect, manifesting in only a limited number of vehicles. If Skoda knows or not... that is something we may never know.

Oh, OK, thanks for the info. I was confused as for ICE cars this is an extra option, you can turn on heating or cooling remotely and I'm pretty sure I don't have this as a menu in my car either (I'm not interested so I did not opt for it).

Not sure I follow you. What I meant is you can produce heat by using the ICE, if nothign else works. I can't say much about PHEVs, as I never owned / drove one.

Then I guess not using it is the only option. Personally, I use CC for keeping me under the speed limit in villages I'm passing through (like in bulgaria, for example). One lane, 50 MNPH limit, I set it at the begining of the city and deactivate it after, as I like to drive the car, I don't find it useful on twisty / hilly roads. Another use is on highway, where I use the 1st lane, I keep a fair distance from the car in front and rarely someone cuts in front of me, in which case slowing down is something I would do anyway. Maybe preemptively deactivate it when something like this happens is an option? Still, we are offered an automation that we can simply not use, if we don't like.

You can set the distance, try and see which setting works best for you.

Yes. You can see this at night. It's the same with any automation applying the brakes, be it auto hold or slowing down.

Ah, OK, makes sense, due to lack of space in the back. Glad to hear you solved it, appreciate the reply!

It is behing one of the pannels, so behind the black material covering the interior and indeed on the other side than the gas pipe.

If you get an error, one of the first things the dealer would do will be to make sure the latest update is installed. If you do not get an error, you might stick with the version you have, though usually the updates are for fixing things and even if an error occurs, it is swiftly corrected through a new patch, they don't want issues.

Yes, I know, and probably all of us take these things with more than a grain of salt. however, this does not pop up in the discussions anywhere, so the customer feedback supports the claim. Personally, I had a Hyundai Tucson for 7 years with LED DRL and nothing failed, and those were lit all the time. If this is not a legal issue, you can chack if an OBD will allow you to change this setting, that is all I can think of, so you can avoid having the light on when you don't want them.

If so, would be indicated in the manual, dealers would know about it, all owners would experience it and would not happen at higher speeds, so it does not really look like a test. I did not experience this, hopefully never will, but then again, mine is not a PHEV. I see many issues with the PHEVs and checking the biggest site in RO for selling cars I see the vast majority of Kodiaq 2s put up for same being PHEVs (like 90% of them), which tells a grim story - this might be a rushed out car for VAG strategy on emissions.

I can share having a connectivity issue on Android Auto, but it happens in the same place, whenever I drive through that spot, it loses connectivity, but I leave it alone and comes back and connects by itself. I can only recommend: testing with another phone testing with another car app (AA if you use CP) making sure your updates are done on your phone and car checking on your phone if all works fine (might be from your phone side)

I would suggest using a body cam aimed at the speedo and trying to record this when happening. Have the correct timestamp and then ask the dealer to check and reply in writing.

Maybe I'm wrong, but is this a standard option? AFAIK this is an extra, so if the OP does not have it, it will not help. Or maybe it's an PHEV specific, I don't know. What I can tell for sure is that on ICE if you want heat, you need the engine to run, and is better to drive, even slowly, to get it up in temp. You would consume gas anyway, idling or driving.

I am not sure if this applies to your car, but I believe that the way VAG configures the map on the VC is related to the nav - if you have the nav, it will display it on the VC (even if you use Waze/GMaps), while if you don't have the nav, the maps will stay on infotainment screen only. I had a 2024 VW Tiguan Allspace and this was the case. I don't like the map in the VC, but that's up to everyone to decide. I can confirm though that on my VRS it is present in the VC, I just don't like it there. If there is no pending sw update, it might just be a trim issue. Try addressing it to the dealer, to at least get a clear answer. Also helps trying to find videos of the same car with same trim, as the owner's manual is too generic, but it cannot be adjusted to what you buy, since you get so much flexibility.