koditzadispater

@davegr it was never my intention to be hostile or aggresive, or anything similar for that matter. However, if I appeared to be so, I do apologise, I know written communication can sometimes lack depth.

@davegr you're the only one attacking people - I decided to ignore your reply to my posts as it had nothing to do with the discussion. All the others have discussed based on the topic, in direct relation to the feature being discussed. As @Evolution13 put it, you just go after each phrase you disagree with and complain people have an attitude if they have a different opinion. We are here to discuss cars and share experiences, if yours are different, that is OK, but understand that what you dislike or see in a certain way other people might like and see in a totally different way. It is not about being right or wrong, it is abut learning how to use stuff, if you want, or disable/not use it, if you don't. Oh, and let's all remember this topic was about range...

The systems are meant to help / assist you, not replace you, this is why you are responsible. You need to constantly pay attention, take all the actions and look everywhere, not only to keep your hands on the wheel. The fact that it surprised you means you were disconnected, probably chatting and not focusing on what the car is doing.

I was driving from Romania to France, I believe it's better to use ACC and have your foot rested and allowing you to focus on driving than not use the automation and be tired and distracted. The problem with the automation is whn you stop paying attention to driving, not when you use it to keep your car speed steady.

I need to disagree. I had the predictive thing on and it drove me crazy, I wanted to keep it at 100 KMPH and the damn thing reset to 130, since I was on a highway. It was night, foggy and snowing, with slush already on the road, so I did not want to go 130. Ended up not using the CC at all. Then I searched the web, found the solution, went to the car and disabled the predictive thing. Now, if I use travel mode, it will adjust to the road speed signs, as it sees them, w/o preparing for it, as in slowing before the sign. If I use ACC, it will keep the speed I set, no matter the road signs, but still keep the distance from the car in front. This is what I wanted. Travel mode is way more than just steering, it can also be used in slow traffic, as it will stp and start the car from standstill, keep the distance from the car in front, keep you at the speed limit etc. Why do you think VAG would put options doing the exact same thing, safe for assist steering? This is what Google gives you - what I explained is Option 2: Option 1: Complete ACC Deactivation (Stalk Method) Push the cruise control lever on the left side of the steering column all the way away from you until it "clicks" into the off position. Option 2: Deactivate Predictive Elements (Infotainment Method) Open Driving Assistance on the central screen. Select ACC. Toggle "Road layout preview" (corners, roundabouts) and "Speed limit preview" (signs) to off. Temporary Cancelation Tap the brake pedal. Push the lever slightly away from you (not to the full click). Permanent Deactivation To disable PCC permanently for all trips, it must be switched off in the driving assistance settings menu. Switching to Regular Cruise Control Some models allow switching to standard cruise control by holding the distance button on the stalk/steering wheel.

Hi there, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with doing their own tire rotation and/or tire work. I am particularly asking about front and rear jacking points, not about the standard sills reinforced jacking points, as I am using a floor hydraulic jack and stands, which maked the sills lifting not an option - that is where I want to place the stand. Nothing useful on the Internet and the manual is a joke. Appreciate any experience you can share on this. Thanks!

@Hand88 stay away from Skoda PHEV, I see 90% of the second hand market as PHEVs, this should tell you enough, and if you need more, read through the forum. Most of the issues are with PHEVs. If you want a Kodiaq, buy a ICE one, if you want a PHEV, look elsewhere.

There is a thing called predictive whatever, you can use the ACC like in older cars, just keeping the spped you set and the distance to the car in front. Travel mode is adjusting to road speed limit, and that is indeed dangerous, I thik it is best used in heavy traffic, not much else.

If it is Waze-related, check the Waze options menu. The speed flasing and audible warnings can be turned off for sure, I use Waze and have them off.

I drive a VRS and can confirm that during winter, when using AH, it was clearly not OK, brakes being like stuck, sound clearly coming from brakes when moving from a stop. All this changed as soon as the temperature went up, so I guess it's just the brakes quality. Will see the next winter and have it investigated, if still an issue.

@Tom-Kodiaq Seems this thread was hijacked, so I would like to reply to your original question, after reading through it. I live in Romania, Bucharest, we use metric system as well, I own a VRS and has almost 6k KM since December 2025. Here is the fuel consumption I've seen so far: highway driving at low speed (90-100 KMPH) - 6-7 L / 100KM highway driving at normal speed (130 KMPH) - 8-9 L / 100 KM highway driving at high speed (180 KMPH) - 16-17 L / 100 KM highway driving at very high speed (225 KMPH) - 23-24 L / 100 KM city driving at night (occasional red lights, very low traffic, 50-70 KMPH) - 9-10 L / 100 KM city driving during the day (regular traffic, 40 KMPH on average) - 12-13 L / 100 KM city driving during the day (heavy traffic, less than 25 KMPH on average) - 15-16 L / 100 KM There is also a matter of how light your foot is, my wife is more gentle and sometimes manages 1-2 L / 100 KM less than me, in heavy traffic, as she pulls out slower, leaves bigger gaps, but only sometimes. The other factors, like temperature (colder means more fuel needed), driving mode (I'd advise against any mode other than default Normal - Comfort/Snow/Offroad only if the road condition requires it and Sport only if you need to overtake and feel the need for it). I tried Eco and the saving is minimal, while the car feels gutless, and this from a VRS. I previously owned a Tiguan Allspace, driving modes assessment was the same, just the fuel consumption was a bit better, as that had 190 BHP, still the same 2.0 L petrol engine. 4x4 is not a factor, as these cars are not real 4x4s, this is electronically controlled, mostly FWD uless you demand it otherwise or the computer deems some power is needed on the back wheels. as @aronisk put it, a car weighing over 2T is not eary to move and will always have a relatively high consumption. Also, this is not a car for city driving. We have it as a vacation car, and use it 1-2 times a week to make sure it gets moved. For city driving, especially if you live in a house, an EV is the best option, or, if you live in an apartment building, like me, a HEV is the next best choice (Corolla, Yaris, Prius) - only if you make the KM to justify the increase in purchase cost. If not, stick to a smaller vehicle, petrol engine, NA if possible and you should get no more than 7-8 L / 100 KM in heavy traffic (our daily driver is a Mazda 3, getting that or even better). Hope it helps.

This sounds very strange to me, and I have all the safety features on. I would suggest you disable the auto hold (if you have it on) and manoeuver very gently when parking. Saying this as in both cars I own (Skoda and Mazda), when fast manouvering they slammed on the brakes.

If your car shows as affected, this means you should go to the dealer as soon as possible. I usually go to the dealer where I bought the car from or to any other approved dealer. This is not a job for a regular garage, even a reputable one. Also, these security recalls should be dealt with at the dealership for free, so you should not avoid them.

Hello there, I believe here is where we can check. Škoda Recall CampaignsCheers! https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

Try using an adapter, it should help you. If you need more details, just let me know.

Not sure on the prices in UK, but in RO it's 4 EUR for a N fill up (1 EUR / tire). It's not for the F1 cars, it's a good solution to keep your rubber fresh and to have a more constant tire pressure, as the N molecule is bigger, making it harder to escape through the rubber as it gets older and more porous. These are the main gains, as the lower tire temperature is not usually a concern for most regular cars, still N would keep a lower temperature in the summer, thus not having too much pressure. In winter, however, you might get a lower pressure, that is if you do not fill up or change tires/wheels, which I do.

Yes, I know, this is why I'm a bit puzzled by the two things @Colin1051 wrote: nearside rear tire - means direct TPMS, as it shows individual tire, vs the more recent "general" indication. I had direct TPMS in my Tiguan and I have indirect in my I20. The I20 does not show at all the fault, just the tire symbol light up and you have to check, while the Tiguan showed individual tire pressure, when checking this in the menu. Indeed, by N I mean nitrogen and should be a good solution, even if not that common in UK. In RO we have this even on small garages, so I guess in UK you should be able to locate one, even if at a bigger garage. I guess then Skoda decided in RO we do not need the direct TPMS on the VRS...

Hello there, It is recommended that you check it weekly. Personally I look at my car each time I go for a drive, but that normally is weekly, as this is not my daily driver. I can recommend that you use N to fill your tires, as this will help you keep a more stable pressure and the rubber to keep fresh a bit longer. As a separate note, I am curious as I could not find this in my 2025 VRS: do you see individual tire pressure displayed in a menu, did you see it individually displayed when you had that puncture, or it was just a generic "tire pressure low" without any indication of a specific tire? I'm asking as one of my pet peeves is the lack of direct TPMS sensors in my car (lack of possibility to option them as well and was assured that it has them, though I could not find them anywhere in my menus). Cheers!

Hello there, I must say that some of these issues are not limited to PHEV. Jolting is an issue as well on my VRS, I deactivate the AH when doing maneuvers, if I'm that close, like for lateral parking. I noticed this happens when you push the throttle very gently, as the car is not sure you want to move, then it squicks and jolts. This is only when using AH, as opposed to starting to move after having the car parked. I recently got back from a long trip and assist systems are another thing: I never used SL, just ACC or TA. What I wanted from the car was to keep the speed I am setting, maybe even slow down if there's a car ahead (typical ACC). What I have is the car is "recognizing" signs and slowing down or accelerating on its own will, which is mostly annoying (each time seeing a 130 KMPH is accelerating, even if I wanted to keep a 90 or 100 KMPH speed due to rain/snow/night/fog conditions) and in a few situations even dangerous (recognized a 60 KMPH sign not addressed to me, but to a side road, or an 80 sign addressed to trucks and suddenly slowed down on a 130 KMPH road - luckily I was only doing 100 and no one was close behind me). TA is basically the same thing, but with lane centering and ability to completely stop and resume movement. There are occasional disconnections from my phone, but I can consider this not being such an issue, and maybe even reated to the phone, not the car, then again this does not happen on same AA wireless connection with the same phone on my I20 when passing through the exact same area, but it does happen all the time in my VRS in the same exact spot. One other thing that bothers me is the way the wipers are desiged to work. If I want to wash my windscreen, I push the button and first the wipers start moving, then the liquid gets splashed, which is surely to lead to scratches. Not sure if poorly designed or just not working as it should on my car. By contrast, this is not happening on the rear window, first the liquid comes out then the wiper moves. Also comparing again with my I20, where I do not have this issue. Not to metion the area under the left wiper that is always dirty and never gets any liquid. In terms of shaking, that is usually down to wheel alignment and quality of the road, or at least I did not notice this, and drove at speeds up to 220 KMPH. None of these is a real deal-breaker for me, these are just issues I think they should have though of and do a better job with, as I am for sure not going to consider another Skoda, or VAG car, for that matter. Cheers!

Hi there, Were you using the car outside of the country of purchase? (sign recognition) Were you using Waze/Maps or built in nav? (map) Asking these 2 questions as I live in RO, car is bought here, went to Turkiye via Bulgaria and the traffic recognition stopped working as soon as I entered Turkiye and worked again when I went back from Turkiye into Greece. When asking the dealer, the answer was something like "be happy it works in BG and GR, it's a car made for RO" which I consider to be a complete BS. The other map thing is something that I briefly experienced in various cars and it is always down to location and connectivity, not to the car itself, if using AA. If using nav, then probably related to the eSIM, so again connectivity. Cheers, Cristian

Hehe, I was just reading through the forum and came to this post. Funnily enough, I use the net from my previous car, a Tiguan Allspace, which is covering the entire floor. The SKoda kit is not used yet. Glad you found the answer, thanks for sharing!

Hi there, As far as I know, the difference lies in 5 or 7 seater, not the model. This being said, the shape is the one under accessories on the Skoda site, and it's a pretty regular one

Disabling folding is a very good option, if safe (as in no risk for having them damaged). It puts less strain on the parts.

Revisiting this, if this is about the speed limit assistant, yes, it can be turned off, but it must be done at each engine startup. I've added a shortcut to my screen, or you can press the drive assistant button on the steering wheel then use the scroll to deactivate the speed limit thing.

Hi there, I see this thread turned to a discussion about something not related. You might want to check these 2 threads, I'm not sure if I got this right, but seems to be a PHEV thing. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535297-phev-charging-and-preheating/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/536849-heating-when-stationary/ The start/stop function it by default on, turning off your engine when certain conditions are met. However, whn disabling it, the engine starts right away. I do not know how PHEV is supposed to function in this regard, though from what I remember seeing in different videos, you should be able to choose what you use, battery or engine. If not, another member pointed out that you can just not charge it and the engine will have to start. Another thing to consider is that in modern engines, warming up the engine is not really a thing. These new engines use a thinner oil, so it is not the same as 20 years ago, still you need to drive gently until the engine warms up. Idling can do more harm, especially to your health, as you will get exhaust gases into the cabin, plus it can also be prohibited in some parts and it's a waste of gas/money. Best!