TerFar

I'm loyal to Tesco! It's Momentum for me.

Dunlop SP Sports Maxx RT 215/40 W 17 at 32lbs front and rear.

That doesn't change my thoughts: I still suspect the tyres.

That makes me strongly suspect the tyres. If the wheels have been replaced in different locations, the different tyre wear to the tred patterns may be causing the noises. Some tyres are reknowned for this, but I cannot remember which make are susceptible.

When you say you changed the tyres from Winter to Summer tyres, were they new tyres or tyres you used last Summer?

Frankly, not too good for me. I have a 2016 1.2 DSG Montecarlo with effing great big wheels. I bought it use at 2 years old with less than 5,000 miles on the clock (owner had died and its sale was held up by executors). Those 17" fat wheels with uprated suspension makes for fantastic handling (heaps better than the vRS version), but it is neither comfortable on rough roads (and what roads aren't rough and potholed these days), nor economical. I get around 40mpg locally around town and can stretch it to 50mpg on a longer run. I do think the 1.2 Tsi coupled with the 7-speed DSG is a really good combination in a small car: it is surprisingly responsive in Sports mode. But it's a harsh ride. I'll definitely avoid big wheels for my next car!

First, don't be concerned about the rock hard brake pedal: that is normal until the engine starts. Are all the lights going through the check phase and going off except the engine and brake lights? Anything else happen on the display?

Try this article on VAG 1.0Tsi reliability issues. Mostly they seem no better or worse than other small engines. However, the Japanese and Koreans have a better record for small engines snd longevity. https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=130

I'm guessing you're referring to stop/start. As rum4mo suggests, the most likely cause is battery charge. It may indicate an ageing battery, but most likely it's the combination of short journeys, cold weather and VAG's EU enforced ghastly charging system that limits battery charge to around 80% capacity and only charges on overrun. I got so fed up with it (and occasional dashboard warnings) , I simply disconnected the BCM (battery control module) sensor connector from the negative battery terminal so that the alternator acts as it should rather than to the EU's stupid dictate.

Unless you live in a harsh environment or drive like a racing driver everywhere, I wouldn't bother with Skoda UK's money grubbing recommendations. 100,000 miles (160km) is a reasonable recommendation. (I'm still waiting for evidence of cambelt failure in any number, let alone significant numbers.) More important at 60,000 miles is first spark plug replacement (unless you were tricked into changing them earlier).

Well you have gained peace of mind! But it is annoying that VAG cannot make a definitive statement and show genuine figures for Cambelt failures to back it up. Personally, I didn't worry too much because with my MC almost 7 years old, I didn't expect it to be worth a lot by now. But covid and shortage of chips has brought it value back up to £10k: quite a shock!

Doesn't work if you need to trickle charge a battery not attached to the car; so a little restrictive, but it does overcome the bonnet release problem.

DON'T fall for this outrageous CON. The manufacturer of the belt states 100,000 miles (160,000 km). VAG in most of the World recommends INSPECTION at 50,000 mile or 5 years. So just maybe ask for an inspection when it is serviced. But IF they replace it, demand they retain it for you to see it. I've no intention of replacing mine until it is 10 years old.

Thanks for the clear explanation. They sure make it complicated these days.

I thought it had one pump with two output channels each with separate thermostats. One channel for the engine (which open first) and the other for the ancillaries (which opens later at a higher temperature). Am I wrong?