iwcham1979

Yes probably. I meant the torsion value of the camshaft is properly set up. According to the VCDS the turbo boost values are Ok. So if there is enough air, no power and no smoke, I guess the car has fueling issues… What else could that be… I have taken the car to another garage, so I hope they will find out what the problem is…

Guys, the Arl turbo bosts fine in vcds. The mechanic put back the old turbo, and the car still experiences the loss od power 😞 I guess it is fuel related, right? Don’t tell me there cant be a way for the disgnostics to isolate the problem? What do you recommend we do? Something happened during the new camshaft install definitelly. On that occasion, injector seals were replaced as well as tamdem pump gasket. All torqued to spec, injector lash is Ok, ignition spot on. There is a slight misfire or something similar when driving over 1200-1500rpm…. No smoke. Tbe rurvo is getting enough air, vut I guess not enough fuel… how to check that…. Strangely, the duel consumption isn’t low…

Cam was set up on the spot, zero.

Yes, I will swap the old turbo back…. The cam an followers are changed, Egr deleted and ARL turbo fitted… Too many changes imo. I don’t want to ne solving the equation with 3 variables…. If the car has an issue with the old turbo back in place, that would mean that the mechanic has messed something up during the cam install process… The error with the EGR deleted is exactly the same one that I had with the faulty EGR in place… Rhe car had a check engine light with the faulty Egr in place, but no limp mode… "19586 - EGR System: Regulation Range Exceeded P3130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent"

All hoses checked for leaks and no codes apart from the EGR code… The only things left to do are: 1. return the old turbo and see what happens, 2. just map out the EGR and see what happens or 3. go straight for the remap around 190hp with Egr deleted from the map and see what happens…. Some decent mechanics consulted and they all think it’s the bigger turbo and old map that is causing the issue, and possible limp mode because of the EGR removed…which I think is stupid because when I clear the EGR code on my Delphi diag, it should give me the window to test it until the check engine reappears… When I clear the code there is no improvement in performance…😂

Believe me, I don’t know who to believe. As I said, the car drives like an SDI and the tuner told me the difference between the two turbos being small, there shouldn’t be any problem, some turbo lag yes…. But as you said good diag. That Delphi crap that I have is crap.

The tuner told me no way should it run so gutless… Going to a 20hp bugger turbo shouldn’t be so big of a deal….

I haven’t touched anything.The turbo was taken from a friend’s Fabia Vrs remapped at 190hp…

😔😱

Just that one code Egr related, but no other codes… But I have a Delphi disgnostics on my laptop, no vcds… No other codes were read, even thoug I am driving a broken SDI ag the moment.. What do you think of the misfire, and severe loss of power, vam or injectors related? The car idles fine…

Well guys, no codes, SDI power thumping and misfire, brand new cam, lifters, injector seals….. Any ideas? Cam or injectors related? At idle it sounds good… 😵‍💫😱

Yes. Something else is a miss… 130 vs 150hp turbo. There shouldn’t be an issue….

Just checked with my mechanic. He did set up injectors, he said, of course…. But why limp mode? Maybe because there is no Egr and there is a bigger turbo? The car is a proper SDI now 😟

But if it’s not good, wouldn’t I be able to see it as bad readings? I have just put a new engine seal cover… Can I reuse it after setting it up properly, if it isn’t good?

Guys, can I check whether imjector lash is good in vcds?

No, the cam and the followers were changed, as well as injector seals… There is no black smoke at idle..

Hello guys, I have changed the cam and followers, fitted an ARL turbo, deleted the Egr on my VRS. I haven’t done the remap yet. My check engine light has come on, which is to be expected…. The new cam and followers jave made the engine more silent, but at. The same time I hear a faint knocking from time to time, and rougher cold starts. Maybe tge cam needs to settle in a bit? The car is absolutely gutless now. I can hear the turbo whistle more then it should, but I am getting no power… Is this to be expected on a stock map? I was hoping to get a little less power and lag, but this is too much… It’s almost as if the car is in safe mode and has no turbo… Thank you!

Screw that about releasing the vacum by unclipping the connection from the vacum box clearing the code part 😅 The check engine has come up again and there is no way ro clear it in that way… It will clear and come again when the car sees it fit 😂

Hello guys, my brother’s Fabia has a problem. The check engine light is intermittently on and off and the only error code we get is 19586 System Regulation Limit Exceeded. The check light would go away an reappear on its own. We tried cleaning the EGR valve and swappimg the vacum box from my Fabia. If I blow air with my mouth in the Egr hose, I can see that the EGR is operating…Interestingly, if I want the light to go away for a short while, I need to disconnect the clip to the vacum box, the vacum pressure would be released, and no check engine light for the moment. Any ideas what it could be? His Fabia is stock, but I get the feeling she should be brisker on acceleration…

Thanks. The car is a bit louder than my other Fabia Vrs, and keeps throwing an EGR related check engine light, than clearing it and showing it up again, in circles. By louder, I mean when the engine is hot, it should just be quieter and sound softer. At all times it sounds like it has been cold started. It’s also a bit down on power comparing it to my other car, not much but definitely down on power. My other Fabia Vrs is ASZ, this one is BLT. It is also a high mileage car, it has 224k miles….So I am thinking…. maybe the camshaft and lifters need replacing, although they aren’t in horrible condition… No other way to see if I am right than to change the cam and followers… Considering the mileage, maybe not a stupid idea I have heard stories of camshafts being busted and not sounding busted..

Thank you for the reply. So you mesn the lifters are ticking because of fuel starvation? I have no problem srarting the car whatsoever, it starts immediately…

Hello guys, having the exact same problem. The ticking will be present after the car has been sat for a while, a day or two, and will go sway after a spirited drive…. What do you reckon? What is more possible, lifters or injectors… When hooked on vcds, the injectors read fine…. And this is my car…. Cold start. https://youtube.com/shorts/vjbQogR1su4?feature=share

ok. Got it. Now before doing a remap....my engine has a slight wobble on tick over every 5 seconds or so, not a misfire, but noticable on the steering wheel, a slight shudder. Is this normal? The other thing I noticed is low fuel consumption at idle, about 0.4L/hour and hot fuel temperature on vcds... (My Golf mk4 ASZ never got below 0.6l) Do you think it would be a good idea to change the injector seals with these sympthoms? And if so, since I have a set of AL injectors laying around... should I use them or keep the BLT injectors for 190hp. If swap them for AL injectors, I would need to drive the car some 250km to my tuner on them on a stock map

Guys, I have installed a 1749VB turbo and Seat Fmic. Now I need to replace headbolts before I do the remap. I have read on the forums that there is a PDF explaining the torque and head bolt change sequence. Could you please send the PDF or a link. I have no intention of sharing it. It’s just for my use, to show it to my mechanic so that we are sure not to make a mess of things 😅 My email address is: iwcham1979 at yahoo dot com I found this thread by Devonutopia: "there is a strict sequence to undo and do up. I have it on a PDF manual. Actually to undo you do it bolt at a time, completely. If you imagine the headbolts 1 to 5 across the top and 6 to 10 down the bottom you undo them in order 1, 10, 5, 6 (so the 4 corners) then 4, 7, 2, 9, then the middle ones 3 then 8. To do up they go in opposite order, to 8 then 3, then 9, 2, 6, 4, then 6, 5, 10, 1 - first to 40Nm, then 60Nm, then 90 degree turn, then another 90 degree turn. That last 90 is a bugger too. Needs a BIG wrench. " So I suppose that's it. So you take out ALL the old bolts in a sequence, so that there are none left, and then fit the new ones in a sequence too, not undo and do them up one by one. First sue 40nm in a sequence, then repeat using 60nm, then 90 degree turn, than another 90 degree turn, right?

Been to two ic and radiator repair shops and they said it can’t be done… They said replacing the core is the only solution… and the cheapest that I could get is 250euros for the hob…..So I bought a brand new replacement part for 150euros…. 😁