Golden

Firstly, well Googled. Secondly, if you're going to get that specific you should know that unless otherwise stated most fasteners have a negligible ratio of wet/dry coefficient of friction to their yield point. This is because most torque figures need to be well within the SWL of the fastner (excluding TTY bolts).

Had you bothered to read the thread properly you'd have seen my original comment was based on this post. To which I replied... I don't need to Google what I already know and unlike your ranting assertion I was not saying anything negative about copaslip. If you're going to a baseless argument at least read the original text properly, otherwise it's just lazy.

Do you even know what Galvanic corrosion is? The potential corrosion isn't between two parts but between the copper grease and the contact part :clap: VAG only kicked in the goodwill payment after this became a potential Watchdog feature and PR disaster, you shouldn't mock people that had units repaired cheaply as VAG initially laughed them out the door. As I said before IMO back street garages and stealerships can be as bad as each other but for different reasons. In my experience 80%-90% of the motor trade are dodgey to some degree. Both might charge you for parts you don't need, one might charge you for a part they broke taking it off while another may charge you for a part because ODB told them the part was duff only for them to find the multiplug was loose when they go to fit the new part. As for this:- I know someone who recently got a complete refund from Audi on an R8 because after 6 months and tens of dealer visits to try and eliminate a brake squeal they couldn't do it

Seriously? Galvanic corrosion requires the presence of an electrolyte, Copaslip is not an electrolyte, DUH! Of course I can make that statement, Copaslip contains absolutely no such contaminants so you're talking utter nonsense. Anyone 'slavering' over anything written here should not be touching their own deadly weapon! That is all. Maybe you could point out which bits are pompous and which bits are just factually accurate text? Two things you rude person. The OP talks about generic 'copper grease' and if you bothered to read my 'Gigantic wall of pompous text' you may have learn't that not all copper grease is created equal and so sweeping generalizations shouldn't be made. ?As for requiring an electrolyte it's a good job cars operate in a sterile vacuum container and don't get exposed to things like rain, snow and road salt, because that would create an excellent electrolyte. :think:

:love: I think you're being over sensitive. I believe the fronts have anti rattle clips but anti squeal is handled mainly by the spring clip shim insert in the piston caliper. This depends on whether someone has lost the piston shim or if the clips are worn or damaged. I didn't mean it wasn't a good substitute, I said Plasti-lube is a better product, I should have made myself clearer, what I meant was that you don't need to drop using copper grease in all applications in favour of Plasti-lube. I completely disagree, modern cars with the harder wearing, extended service interval brakes suffer far more from brake squeal than any age of car that's gone before them, with maybe the time period of the switch from asbestos to asbestos free lining material being an exception. TBH in the arches (I'd include tyre/exhaust places and Halfrauds in this) and dealership mechanics (certainly not all but the majority) tend to be the least skilled personnel in the motor industry. In the arches monkeys are untrained bodgers, often ripping off the customer because of their own ignorance and inability to not break parts or competently diagnose faults. Stealership monkeys are unthinking automatons, who have their diagnostic abilities beaten out of them by factory diagnostic machines, service bulletins and manufacturer book times. They are often completely incapable of completing the most mundane task on a vehicle they're unfamiliar with and never consider that the manufacturer could be wrong or have alternative motives for making them buy additional equipment or products. I'm not suggesting this is you, but look around your workshop and tell me I'm not right, out of an average of 6-8 mechanics at a stealership only 1, 2 if you're lucky, can be called anything more than glorified fitters. As for stealership prices, people only pay them to keep the warranty up and because manufacturers use diagnostic and special tools to price independents out of the market. Most people know of a good mechanic/garage they'd rather use if the above two issues weren't a consideration. I should point out that I'm neither a stealership nor independent mechanic.

I don't think I've ever seen so many half truths, exaggerations and BS. The decision about whether to apply some form of high temperature grease to the pads requires an understanding of why you do it. Brake squeal is caused by high frequency vibration of the pad between the caliper and disc, there are two ways to avoid this, glue the pad to the caliper piston, or use something as a damping medium, such as copper grease. Many manufacturers also use anti squeal shims and clips which stealership monkeys excel at loosing or deliberately leaving out. It's also wrong to make definitive statements based on a generic product description, there is a world of difference between something like Penrite Copper Eze and some unbranded Chinese stuff of Ebay. Plasti-lube is a better product than copper grease but not an essential swap and excessive lubricant of any type is a waste, mess and potentially dangerous. If you read the beginning of this post hopefully I've answered both your points. Anyone 'slathering' external components in any lubricant shouldn't be touching a potential deadly weapon. Copper grease can promote galvanic corrosion but only under certain specific conditions unlikely to occur in brake mechanisms. As for it's effect on hall effect sensors, you can't make definitive statements about this because cheap copper grease could have all manner of ferrous contaminants in it. Also excessive application of any lubricant can get on sensors and attract ferrous material causing a malfunction. Utter BS, a bolt holds two items together by pushing it into its elastic range, not by the coefficient of friction of the thread surfaces. Applying grease to wheel bolts compared with clean dry threads should make negligible difference to the overall torque figure. Over-tightening, stretching and damage a far more likely to occur from dirty, unlubricated threads because torque loads aren't applied evenly along the bolt causing excessive localized stress.

He probably means wheel centre to arch OR floor to arch. Wheel centre to arch is a better figure as it removes variation in wheel size/tyre type and wear.

From what I can see on the website they use different shore ratings for different bushes, which is probably part of the reason they're so expensive!

:S What! Are they infused with platinum? Does anyone know the Super Pro shore rating out of interest?

I don't need to 'continue'. I have showed multiple times why your theory is ridiculous, yet you've offered no proof other than 'because I say so, I own a VRS'. TBH the wobbling hubs are the less ridiculous part of your theory, how an after market ARB would cure this wobbling is the really laughable part. I am not pointing this out to belittle or embarrass you, vehicle engineering is my specialty, as I'm sure your day job is for you. The only reason I'm pointing out that your theory is incorrect, is because I think it's unfair for other forum users to be mislead simply because you shout with authority.

LOL you can't keep changing your theory as you desperately trawl the internet clutching at proof. You said the weak area was the hub, not the axle. That product is designed to reinforce racing cars running on slicks generating cornering loads the original engineers didn't envisage. LINKING TO THIS PRODUCT IS POINTLESS, IT DOESN'T CHANGE THE FACT THAT AN AFTER MARKET REAR ARB WILL NOT DO THE SAME JOB. You are just plain wrong, you don't understand the operation of an ARB, you don't understand basic physics and you certainly don't understand dynamic suspension operation, thus far this is all you've proved time and time again.

I see you're changing your story and misleadingly misquoting me. Why have you suddenly mentioned the bushes when before you stated it was the hubs flexing on the end of the axle? I am not the one suggesting there is any rear wheel steer, I stated quite clearly that this doesn't happen, but would happen if your fanciful pipe dream were real. So far I have demonstrated with facts, figures and diagrams that this does not happen. Even if it did happen in some alternate universe, I've also shown, factually, that an aftermarket ARB will have zero effect on it. Instead of just repeating that it happens because you say so, maybe you could demonstrate with some kind of facts, proof, or engineering????

I've never seen the stuff Powerflex supply (they're woefully over priced IMO) so I don't know if it's standard copper grease or something more fine. I can tell you I've seen many Bugpack/Prothane/Polysport bushes with premature wear due to off the shelf copper grease.

The best stuff is Castrol CL or some other sort of calcium based grease, after that use graphite based CV type grease as Lofty does or if not Castrol LM or some other lithium based grease. DO NOT USE COPPER GREASE, the fine copper particles in it act as an abrasive and cause premature wear to the bush and insert/arb. People using copper grease is one of the main reasons some forum warriors (not on BRISKODA) claim poly bushes are crap and you should fit OEM.

I don't know how else I can tell you that lateral strengthening from an after market ARB is an impossibility, did you not understand that picture I put up? There is no way a rear axle flexes inwards, it would create rear wheel steer and the car would be undriveable. Most VW group cars have toe tolerances of 10 minutes, on a 16inch wheel that's about 0.6mm per wheel, what you're suggesting is that axle moves enough to effect the handling but not enough to induce rear wheel steering, it's impossible.