eddies

A friend's 97 Felicia regulator quit working, fried the Battery, the ECU, the Radio. Got parts from a breaker and car ran for 2 seconds ....Needed an ECU re-code by the dealer at a cost of £80 !!

Using VAG-COM, what channel / measuring block is used to check (1) the fuel temperature sensor on a TDI injection pump... (2) the coolant temperature sensor on a 110 tdi AHF engine Thanks:)

The engine starts fine. idles normally....not revving hot or cold....but requires a lot of cranking when hot to re-start. I thought it was the NRV on the fuel filter allowing the system to drain...but this was checked & replaced but no change. Where is teh 4-wire temp sender unit ...or does anyone know which item to check on VAG-COM to verify correct operation of the tem sender or the injection pump fuel sender. Thanks

Found a link on another forum showing the Fuel Temp Sender (inside) the Injection Pump. Not sure if I can trace down the wiring to test the sender without opening the pump. Would this cause teh black smoke on acceleration? Thanks for the help

SOmetimes when my W-reg Octy 110 tdi takes a lot of cranking over to get it started when it is hot. No problem with cold starts. i have checked the EGR, and shut off butterfly and they are all OK. Also there is some extra black smoke when accelerating hard.... Is the pump on teh way out or does it need some adjustment? Is there a temperature sensor that impacts starting when the engine is hot? VAG-COM did not show any faults ...

Has anyone experience of what is involved to change an SDI engined Octy 1 to a TDI......all parts are available from the donor Tdi inc. Engine / box / turbo / hoses / intercooler / ecu / electrics / drive shafts etc. etc. I suspect that the plumbing / wiring in the engine bay is "similar" and the change would not be that hard as a result? Thanks:)

I will exercise the controls and perfom a VAG com scan to see if anything shows up. Thanks

The AIRCON appears to work OK.....the problem (compared to my old petrol car with manual heater) is that not enough air seems to be coming out of the window vents. I have replaced the pollen filter as well but still no good.

On my year 2000 SLX Tdi with Cliamtronic controls the defrost / demist setting does not send a lot of air to the windscreen and I can end up with foggy edges on such days. I looked (with a mirror) at the actuators levers on the heater body inside the car and they appear to be moving freely when called on by the pushbuttons on the climate control system. ANY suggestions on what / how to check this out ...without removing the entire dashboard? Thanks in advance

The box is heavy enough........you will need someone to work the jack while U lie on the floor and manouvre the box in / out of its location. No need to drop the engine mount on the cam belt side - but don't let the engine drop too far or you can cause damage to pipework etc.

When I did my clutch job two weeks ago i could not get the drive shaft flange past the flywheel so i had to remove it. Although extra work it made refitting a doodle. I had a spare DMF so I fitted this to replace my broken unit. Given the amount of time to do this job I would suggest replacing the the entire unit with a single mass item....this is personal preference.

:finger:Not the easiest clutch to replace!! Here are the things that the Haynes manual does not tell U ...unless I am blind and cannot see the text on the page.... I "suggest" this method ....NOT ALL STEPS included - just the high points 1) Remove all trim panels that are in the way, plus battery, battery tray, airfilter and hoses. 2) Disconnect the clutch slave cyl. and gearchange cables from the levers. 3) Remove the cable mounting plate and string the slave cyl. and cable assy up out of the way. 4) Drain the Gearbox Oil - WHY - you will have to remove the drivers side driveshaft flange from the gearbox.....when U get to that stage. 5) Disconnect the driveshafts using a spline key (not allen) Using an allen wrench remove the centre bolt from the driver's side driveshaft and remove the flange from the gearbox!! Also remove the small plate which is locate above this drive coupling bolted on to the bellhousing! 6) Disconnect the tie rods from hybs to allow more elbow room 7) Unclip electrics from shiled on starter 8) Remove (13mm) starter shield / AC pipe brackets) 9) Unbolt starter (18mm I believe) and remove. 10) Loosen all engine to gearbox bolts. 11) Support engine (I used Uni-Strut & Chain) off cyl head bracket 12) Support G/Box secure on trolly jack 13) Remove lower stabiliser bracket 14) Remove gearbox support bracket bolts (18 mm) 15) OPTIONAL - remove the two 13mm bolts which secure the gearchange mechanism to the gearbox and tap the assy with soft mallet to remove vertically from box. MAKE SURE the box is in NEUTRAL or you will do damage! PL:UG the hole with a large rag to keep dirt out. This will give you loads of clearence to menouvre the box out from under the car. 16) SPRAY loads of WD40 on the three bolts that hold the gearbox mounting bracket to the box and remove this bracket. you may have to lower the box slightly to gain access to the bolts. 17) Remove the engine / box bolts and slide the trans away from teh engine. do not use a pry bar between the two as you can bend the engine plate.... 18) I found it easiest if the box was rotated CCW as you look at the LH end to get the diff housing up over the x-member and then move it towards the outside of the car before dropping it down. 19) now use a spline key used to remove the clutch pressure plate 20) More than likely U have a DMF and this is held on by large TORX bolts 21) I made a bracket to hold the flywheel from turning to udo the flywheel bolts. 22) Check the pivot point of the clutch release arm ....the plastic "ball" on mine had split in half 23) While the box is out on the floor examine how to re-install the gear selector mechanism to make it easy when the box is back in. 24) When re-installed you can refill the box thro' the gear selector hole before refitting the mechanism. 25) YOU will have to push the drive flange (against a spring) into the box to get the allen bolts started into it's thread Hope this helpss

Had a heck of a time - but succeeded in getting my gearbox out / repairs made and back in over the weekend. The Haynes manual (unless I am mistaken) does not tell you that the drive flange on the drivers side needs to be removed to get the gearbox off the engine. The flange is held on by an allen headed screw in the centre of the flange. Also I removed the gear selector mechanism (secured by two 13mm hex bolts) and plugged the hold with a big cloth to provide more space when re-installing the gearbox. - Anyway back to the rattle problem. ON my car the fault was the Dual Mass Flywheel. The metal mating surface moves with respect to the outer housing of the flywheel. This metal disc rotates on a small ball-bearing assembly at the centre of the flywheel, and on my car the bearings withing the race had come loose amd move to one side forcing the metal disc off-centre and at a slight angle. When the clutch pedal was released to engage the clutch it would only touch at one side - initially - and cause the car to shudder a lot. When the clutch was fully engaged the shuddering stopped but the rattle started. If pressure was applied to the clutch pedal the rattle stopped - because this action forced the release bearing to push the pressure plate hard against the movable part of the DMF preventing it from moving and stopping the rattle. Hope this helps:thumbdwn:

:)Did some looking around other (VAG) gearboxes and found that the Selector Mechanism mounted on top of the gearbox, where the cables attach, is interchangeble from the early gearbox to the later gearbox - as the internal selector parts match up. The entire mechanism is held on by two M8 bolts and pulls straight up (tap it with a soft faced mallet) to remove it. The newer unit should drop straight into the older box.

Might sound like a dumb question ...but where is the anti-shudder valve located? Is it near the EGR valve closer to the cylinder head?

I have Elsawin for Volkswagen cars. It has very good diagrams of components and how to work on teh mechanical bitz. HOWEVER it refernces all the VW specific tools and even the VAG1551 diagnostic system. I also have a Haynes Manual which in general is good but is limited in terms of what they consider a DIY mechanic can do. They do not show how to repair gearboxes etc. The Skoda Manual (Haynes) can assits with Bora / Golf IV but not all parts are identical

I pulled the gearbox out over the weekend - Not an easy job! Found the DMF centre ball bearunit damaged which in trun forced the surface of the flywheel off at an angle....resulting in a very juddery clutch release action..and the rattle noise. Replaced teh DMF and all if quiet and smooth again. thanks for all the responses.

Is it possible to fit the gear linkage assembly from the later (after 05-99) 02J transmission including cables / levers etc. at the transmission end ....to an early '99 Octavia Tdi.? The early linkage needs special tools to adjust ......but the later one is much easier to adjust? Engine AHF 110 bhp

The engine pulls very well but requires a lot of cranking to get going when warm. The box/clutch rattles a lot (not sure which one is faulty) and the noise quits when you press the clutch pedal in. I tried to lever the flywheel via the TDC inspection hole but saw no movement so I think the flywheel is OK?

I have the same noise in my 110 bhp Octavia I......and I suspect the pilot shaft bearing in the centre of teh flywheel....but have not ripped the car apart yet to make repairs.

Is it straightforward to change the engine (& gearbox) assy. on a 110 bhp (AHF) Octavia I for a 90 bhp engine complete with ECU exchange. i know the key chip will need encoding - but are there any other items (Climate control / central locking etc.) hiding in the ECU? The 110 unit and gearbox require expensive repairs and it easier to source a 90 bhp lump. Thanks

Will check this today. more than likely this is the problem. thanks

On a 2004 model year (pertol) Octavia Automatic the car will turn on and start in Park or Neutral - but you cannot shift out of P or N with teh ignition on or engine started. the display shows EPC (or similar) on the instruments. Is this a micro switch adjustment and if so where is teh switch and how do you adjust? thanks