AndrewW

Thanks to everyone for their replies. The point from cheezemonkhai about the DMF always being connected to the engine is sobering from the perspective of the £1000+ it costs to sort that out (although I'm still trying to work out what a "mad midget trying to hammer his way out of hell" actually sounds like :wonder: ). I'm attracted to the crankshaft sensor, although I don't feel that the engine is about to stall on me when setting off but it does feel reasonably violent to the extent that I lift off and change down a gear. I'll try to source the diesel additive today on the basis that it can't do any harm - presumably I will need to run that for a few hundred miles before I see a difference. All the advice being provided goes to prove that, in the absence of a definitive fault code, it is pretty difficult for a Garage to diagnose the problem without replacing parts (and potentially a lot of parts). I'll have a chat with my local Garage (Garlands in Aldershot) during the week - I've always found them reasonable, but it had them foxed a month ago so the list of suggested items to look for should allow some prioritisation to be done, starting off with another diagnostic hook-up in case something is now showing; then checking the DMF through removal of the starter motor or the inspection plug (if my 6-speed manual is an "02m"); then clean out / reset of EGR valve, intercooler and the throttle body; then Crankshaft sensor; etc. I'll post an update with progress as and when it happens. Thanks again.

Thanks for the rapid response - interesting thought that it can't be DMF if clutch position is irrelevant on idle.. The MAF Plug / Socket (which I think is the large one at the top of the engine) is clean with no signs of corrosion - while I haven't done the silicone grease trick, I have mated/unmated plenty of times to make sure that the contacts are making. Also, it's dry here at the moment so I don't think it is that. I've tried your suggestion of disconnecting the battery - left it for at least 5 minutes. Unfortunately, no change on idle so I didn't attempt to take it for a run. Keep the ideas coming - I'm willing to try things within my limited capabilities!

Having read a large number of posts on the forum about possible causes, I thought I would see whether I could gain concensus on the problems of my 2004 Octavia II 2.0 TDI PD with 65,000 miles on the clock. Symptons: - About 1500 miles ago, applying gentle acceleration to increase speed when travelling in any gear between about 1700 rpm and 2100 rpm caused a juddering vibration. Not unlike bad pinking in old fashioned speak. - Now, engine noticeably rough at idle (both from cold and when coming to rest after a long motorway run and irrespective of clutch in or out) and the juddering now occurs from about 1600 rpm to 2400 rpm on gentle acceleration. - No problems when accelerating away from rest irrespective of gentle / hard acceleration. - No problems when driving more enthusiastically at any enginer revs (or gentle acceleration above 2500 rpm) Diagnosis to date: - Taken to garage 1500 miles ago - no faults showing up on their diagnostics. Thoughts on possible causes: - Dual Mass Flywheel (but problem doesn't seem to occur when accelerating away from rest - is this significant?) - Engine mounts (notable that CamBelt replaced Oct 2008 with no mention of engine mount bolt replacement - but that was rather a long time ago so I don't think it's that relevant in case someone asks the question) - Something upsetting the electronics that doesn't show up on the diagnostics (e.g. corrosion in any one of numerous connectors) I note from recent postings that it is theoretically possible for the garage to check the DMF without taking the gearbox off, so this is probably a good option to check out. However, any advice on possible causes (including other causes not included) would be gratefully appreciated since it does seem to have got worse in the last few days. Many thanks

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would simply add to this one for consistency of the information on Parking Sensors. My Octavia II 2004 (54 plate) has suffered from the inevitable parking sensor failure. I have managed to extract the dead one from the rear bumper courtesy of the advice on this forum (for which many thanks!!). However, it has the part number 7H0 919 275 (with the PA66 GF30 underneath). This thread mentions the same part number, but with a "C" at the end. Looking on eBay, the part number with a "C" is very definitely marked. Does anyone happen to know if there is a significant difference between the parts with and without the "C", or will the "C" variant work fine on my Octavia noting that there don't appear to be any none-"C" versions around?? Many thanks Andrew

Oops - I had failed to update my e-mail address (now corrected). Sorry for the trouble & thanks for PMing instead. Explains why I haven't had any e-mails recently from Briskoda!! Andrew

My door mirrors no longer heat. I asked the garage to investigate while they had the car in for rear discs & brakes. Unlike other postings on heated door mirrors on this forum, the garage identified that I needed a new switch as well as one new mirror glass for the small sum of £140 including fitting. Courtesy of this forum, I've gained access to the switch and checked the contacts. Assuming the pin that it uppermost in the installed orientation is Pin 1, then on the heated setting, Pins 4 & 5 are linked, all others open circuit. In the absence of a wiring diagram, I'm unable to establish whether this is what is expected. Can anyone advise please? Also, the rear parking sensors are exhibiting the "long beep on engaging reverse gear" with then no display of car on the Stream Radio and no warning beeps whilst reversing, then the display of car on the Stream Radio appears briefly (~1 second) on return to neutral. I don't think this fault started on return from the garage, but is it possible that something associated with the garage work has upset the parking sensors - or am I just having a run of bad luck? Many thanks Andrew

Thanks to all for the replies. The "crack" was actually down to rust on the top of the Fuel Filter Housing - so it wasn't cracked in the normal sense, rather it seems to have rusted through. Hence, I don't believe it was maintenance induced. I sent a note to Skoda UK Customer Services through their website and they were good enough to reply. They have investigated and can find no technical bulletins or information relating to premature failure of the Fuel Filter Housing. They also state that a repair of this type required after four years is deemed reasonable, adding that while the part has no moving components, corrosion will occur over time. I sort of see where they are coming from - but in their response to me, Skoda UK omitted to recognise that a redesigned Fuel Filter Housing is now fitted in their cars. I suppose I will simply have to put up with it - the car has cost me virtually nothing in servicing or other issues prior to this four year glitch, so in overall terms I haven't done so bad! Andrew

My 2.0TDi 140 is now 4 years old with just 41K on the clock. It's currently in the garage for MoT + Cambelt change + Water pump change (I like to play safe) + brake fluid change. They've just rung me to say that the Fuel Filter housing is cracked and needs replacing otherwise they will fail the MoT. It doesn't appear to be a common problem based on this forum, but I thought I would ask anyway since it seems a bit poor for this unit to be cracked after just 4 years on a relatively low mileage. At least they won't be charging labour since they have to remove it anyway for the Cambelt change - but my total bill is now going to be over £700 . Thanks Andrew