andy68

KO3 hybrid easier to fit, KO4 from what I remember you also have to change inlet manifold as throttle bodies are at opposite ends, KO4's also take you into torque rod bending territory, unless you've already changed them. KO4-001 used to be an option straight swap for a KO3s gave around 260bhp and bit more torque, K300 was another option but same as KO4 watch the torque. BAM injectors struggle with anything from about 320bhp. With regards to your other thread Intercooler's 60mm piping was generally used for KO3s and 76mm(welly cooler) for anything else, alot of tuners have moved on from 1.8T 20v due to age, Badger5 still active with this engine and some of the American companies(eg 034) still do tuning parts for the 1.8T as it is still a popular engine over the pond.

I used these PFF85-431BLK worked well, did lower a little bit more, not got any pictures of my old old Octavia. Air pump as above drill out the rivets and replace with nuts and bolts, from memory think i used M5 x 50, worked for a while, junked it in the end, live with the noise, it's only on start up, or junk it.

Cambelt yes, air-con personally I'd junk it. Everything else depends how much money you want to throw at it, how long you want to keep it. If you did your subframes for example could you get by while it's off the road. What you could end up spending could easily go to a newer car. fine balancing act, keep spending or move on, not easy decision, The Mk1 can be quite addictive.

Rear roll bar could be Golf Clubsport, or another special edition, know the later one's were 21.7mm. can't help on the caster, I know on the Mk1 VRS you could replace LCA bushes to alter the caster, superpro made them, didn't keep my MK3 long enough to see what was available polybush wise.

Keep the car, trade the wife🤣🤣🤣

It's the torque that kills these, keep it under 300lb/ft, maybe ok, these are old engines now, FMIC. bigger TIP, fuel pump is probably tired now, and deep pockets

https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

In the mean time my remote key unlocks all Doors but not the driver ones and can't lock any of them and Windows started uncontrolably going down and up. I changed key battery-no effect. Is it engine lock or that Windows controler in door handle. It can unlock doors,except driver one but can't lock them at all and that red light on door is constantly on. Any help??? I Searched ETKA and there is green and black engine-must be phisycally checked-what means destroying all sound proofing of the door just to see which one I have, and I wonted to purchase it immediatelly so I can repair sound proofing instantly after engine replacement. Sounds like window motor has corroded pins, or breaks in wires between the door and body, usually affects electric mirror operation also(only one mirror moves from switch)

Only 2nd, you've let us down😉😂🤣

Find a good Indy, most main dealers overcharge and over rated. At the age and mileage value unlikely to be affected, most people want to see receipts rather than a dealer printed record.

Ebay probably your best option, or as an upgrade MK4Golf/Bora aero arms fit

I should also probably add my MK3 was also manual as the MK1 only came as manual, preferred the MK1 gear lever to look at and hold, found the MK3 slightly better on fuel on a run, around the same day to day stuff. Didn't tally up the score that way, decision was purely based on my opinion on day to day living with the cars and how they make you feel. Buying with your head the MK3 is a good choice, buying with the heart the MK1 slightly edges it for me, like I say it was a close call both cars have their strength's and weakness, as mentioned above on gear lever, probably other little things that I've forgot. Just remembered another Tyre's, why did both come with different sizes compared to similar cars on the same platform, MK1 205/50-17, compared to 225/45-17, 18's are the same. MK3 225/35-19 compared to 235/35-19, Octavia tyre sizes usually a few pounds per corner dearer.

Inspired me write my thoughts down

Sold my MK3 a few months back, will most probably be my last Skoda, nothing in the current range makes me think oooh I want of them. Originally had a 2002 MK1 VRS which I had for 12 years. My 2019 MK3.5 I kept for 18 months. On comparing the two variants to me they both have their good and bad points. I kept my MK1 standard for around 3 years, then found this site and the mods started, MK3 was left standard, mods were planned but the itch to get a V8 won so the VRS went and in came Jag XFR. So on to comparing the VRS's. MK3 has the better chassis handles better than MK1, ride quality the same. MK3 definitely has the better seats, much more support and a lot easier to keep clean along with the carpets, who thought white/silver seats and carpet in a family car was a good idea I'll never know. MK1 has the better steering wheel to the touch, MK3 feels to plasticky, design is on a par. Some of the interior plastics on the MK3 seemed a bit more scratchy and hard compared to the MK1. MK3 has the better spec all round. MK3 why are the front window switches hidden behind the door handle?? I opened the rears nearly as much as the fronts. MK1 opening the boot in the rain resulted in water in the boot, nice to see they cured it for the MK3. Both have great boot space. The engines, 2.0TSi and 1.8T 20V, newer engine the better performance wise, both very tunable, and both have decent reliability if properly maintained. Think my biggest gripe with the 2.0 TSi is how many parts under the bonnet are now plastic, and we all know how plastic copes with numerous heat cycles, think I'd of been waiting for something to split once things get hot after a few years of use. MK3 headlamps loads better than the candles on the MK1. Fuel economy on a run was good on both models, I regularly got mid 40's, and insurance was was good compered to some of it's rivals. Both good looking cars, MK1 wins this one for me just looked better compared to lower spec models, where as the MK3 doesn't look different enough to the rest of the range. never bothered with the MK2 or MK2 FL, didn't like the back end and the Dame Edna glasses on the FL. The MK4 leaves me cold, looks like a bad copy BMW 3 series. So which do I think is the better of the two? For me it's the MK1, it's a close call, the MK1 just seems to have a character to it where the the MK3 feels a little to clinical. Both cars based on Golf GTi, the MK1 to me felt on a par to the MK4 GTi, where as the MK3 feels cheaper than GTi's now, VAG management definitely put a gap between Audi, VW, and Skoda, Seat taking up the cheap end. Another to way to look at it also is when you park your car, do you look back at your car and think that's mine, I did with the MK1 all the time, the MK3 not so much. Anyway that's my thoughts and opinion, let the agreements and disagreements start🤣🤣

Congrats on the sale, is it staying on here? Nothing wrong with the 3.5, It just didn't grab me like the MK1 did.

Shame you have to sell, hope you don't regret it, still miss mine occasionally, but don't miss my MK3.5, Good luck with the sale, hope it goes to a good home.

Broken wire in door loom, or most probably the electric window motor in the door, fills with water and corrodes the pins in the connector block, loads of threads on here to show you how to replace or repair.

Either drill out the rivets holding the 2 halves together and replace with nuts and bolts, or bypass it, plenty of threads on how to remove it and parts needed.

from what I remember its on the bulkhead, turbo inlet pipe area.

prefer this one would rather lose the VRS badges though, just my opinion

try looking for MK4 Golf ones, ECS and Eibach used to do them

should be ok if no misfires are present, if coils are getting weak, usually shows up after 5k rpm if your getting it live mapped. been a while since I've had my MK1 think at the time latest coils recommended were the ones part number ending in D or R. Otherwise enjoy life in th MK1 VRS, had mine over 12 years and lots of smiles, and many £££'s on mods.

Ebay, the one I got was a DUB Seat glove

Keep it stock, make sure it has latest coil packs, check pipes for leaks usually the Y pipe and S shaped one under the the inlet that go, clean the throttle body and fit rear roll bar, personally I'd also fit 225/45 tyres for a little extra grip, added bonus usually cheaper than 205/50.

There was an old thread knocking about where someone mocked up Race Blue and Viper Greeen, google search may find it.