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For future reference, this is what I did: Jack the car and remove the wheel. This exposes the disk and caliper. Lever the brake pads away from the disk so that the caliper can be pulled free from the disk (there will be a wear ridge on the periphery of the disk). Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the upright and tie the caliper up out of the way (don’t strain the brake pipe). Remove the one countersunk torx screw holding the disk to the upright .The disk can now be removed (a few hammer blows will unstick it). Reassemble in reverse order using the correct torque on all fastenings and Loctite on the caliper to upright bolts. I used 190nm on the caliper to upright bolts as advised above in this thread

The title says it all really. My front disks need changing (at 160000 miles) and id like to do the job myself. Any "gotchas" ? Does anyone have torque figures for this job ? Thanks in anticipation .....

Do they keep the original key for 14 days (I hope not !). Do they need the car to pair with ?

I live in france and would like to know how the system of obtaining a spare ign key works (in uk or france). This will make my appearance at the French parts counter easier as my French is still rudimentary. I have all the tags that were supplied with the keys when I bought the car (new) It's a 2006 octavia 4x4 ....

Can't directly help with your question but I would advise caution if you fit springs from another type of vehicle. It's not just the length of the spring that is important, the spring rate is also important (how much load it takes to compress the spring a given amount). For instance, if you fit springs with a significantly higher rate at the rear of the car you could find that your car is more prone to oversteering (loose rear end when cornering). Just something to be aware of. Good luck from a fellow 4x4 owner ....

New caliper fitted, and I'm back on the road. Thanks for all your help !

For future reference, yes, my car does have the sensors in the front pads

Thanks for the reply Scouter. Just to be clear, the sliding pillars are what you refer to as "caliper to carrier" ?

For my 2006 Octavia 4x4 please TIA

Well, the piston was seized pretty solid in the caliper. Even pushing it out with the brake pedal was hard. The piston is pitted enough to be a concern so a new caliper is on the way. I wonder what the other side is like ........

Well, the pads were certainly tight in the calliper so I cleaned everything up and rebuilt things full of expectation, however, after a trial run the problem is if anything worse ! I can only think that in pressing the piston back into the housing in order to rebuild the brake, I have made any piston pick up worse. My only option now is to strip the calliper and inspect. I'll update with what I find

That's the sort of info I was aluding to. I'll use my Easybleed to be sure .....

Thanks Guys I hadn't considered the pads rusting into the caliper and it certainly makes sense. I'll strip and check before ordering. You may have saved me some cash. Thanks again

Hi I have a Skoda Octavia TDI 4X4 Estate first Reg 14.06.2006 (an 06 plate). The front nearside caliper is very sticky and is keeping the pads against the disk. Replacement looks fairly straightforward but are there any "Gotcha's" when bleeding the system ? Are there any peculiar valves etc that make bleeding different to other cars ? TIA

Ok, I can see how the clip locates in the inner piston. The outer pad that I currently have fitted has no clip (understandable because there is no outboard piston). I can't search for parts in France with the UK car description as they use different descriptions here so I really need a part number for the brake pads themselves ..... Anyone ?