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For future reference, this is what I did: Jack the car and remove the wheel. This exposes the disk and caliper. Lever the brake pads away from the disk so that the caliper can be pulled free from the disk (there will be a wear ridge on the periphery of the disk). Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the upright and tie the caliper up out of the way (don’t strain the brake pipe). Remove the one countersunk torx screw holding the disk to the upright .The disk can now be removed (a few hammer blows will unstick it). Reassemble in reverse order using the correct torque on all fastenings and Loctite on the caliper to upright bolts. I used 190nm on the caliper to upright bolts as advised above in this thread

The title says it all really. My front disks need changing (at 160000 miles) and id like to do the job myself. Any "gotchas" ? Does anyone have torque figures for this job ? Thanks in anticipation .....

Do they keep the original key for 14 days (I hope not !). Do they need the car to pair with ?

I live in france and would like to know how the system of obtaining a spare ign key works (in uk or france). This will make my appearance at the French parts counter easier as my French is still rudimentary. I have all the tags that were supplied with the keys when I bought the car (new) It's a 2006 octavia 4x4 ....

Can't directly help with your question but I would advise caution if you fit springs from another type of vehicle. It's not just the length of the spring that is important, the spring rate is also important (how much load it takes to compress the spring a given amount). For instance, if you fit springs with a significantly higher rate at the rear of the car you could find that your car is more prone to oversteering (loose rear end when cornering). Just something to be aware of. Good luck from a fellow 4x4 owner ....

New caliper fitted, and I'm back on the road. Thanks for all your help !

For future reference, yes, my car does have the sensors in the front pads

Thanks for the reply Scouter. Just to be clear, the sliding pillars are what you refer to as "caliper to carrier" ?

For my 2006 Octavia 4x4 please TIA

Well, the piston was seized pretty solid in the caliper. Even pushing it out with the brake pedal was hard. The piston is pitted enough to be a concern so a new caliper is on the way. I wonder what the other side is like ........

Well, the pads were certainly tight in the calliper so I cleaned everything up and rebuilt things full of expectation, however, after a trial run the problem is if anything worse ! I can only think that in pressing the piston back into the housing in order to rebuild the brake, I have made any piston pick up worse. My only option now is to strip the calliper and inspect. I'll update with what I find

That's the sort of info I was aluding to. I'll use my Easybleed to be sure .....

Thanks Guys I hadn't considered the pads rusting into the caliper and it certainly makes sense. I'll strip and check before ordering. You may have saved me some cash. Thanks again

Hi I have a Skoda Octavia TDI 4X4 Estate first Reg 14.06.2006 (an 06 plate). The front nearside caliper is very sticky and is keeping the pads against the disk. Replacement looks fairly straightforward but are there any "Gotcha's" when bleeding the system ? Are there any peculiar valves etc that make bleeding different to other cars ? TIA

Ok, I can see how the clip locates in the inner piston. The outer pad that I currently have fitted has no clip (understandable because there is no outboard piston). I can't search for parts in France with the UK car description as they use different descriptions here so I really need a part number for the brake pads themselves ..... Anyone ?

I have an Octavia 4 x 4 1.9 Tdi first registered 14/06/2006 and need to change the front brake pads. I have been supplied (by a French company – I live in France) with a set of Ferodo FDB 1398 pads. These look similar to mine except they have a large claw type clip riveted to the back face of all 4 (on the outer pad mine are just flat – not checked the inner). One pad also has wiring for a warning light (I don’t know whether my car has that facility. Any idea what the oem part number is ?

I retried the car today, and all is fine. I guess that it must have gone into limp home mode. (I did have to give it some welly at an island shortly after a cold start so maybe turbo overpressure ?). Anyway, it's fine now. I think I'll give it a dose of turbo cleaner anyway. Thanks for the pointers .....

Yes, i.9 TDI. There are no warning lights showing. Would limp mode illuminate a light ? I agree, a turbo failure would normally give smoke. I hadn't considered limp mode.

130,000 miles, full main dealer service history, last service 1500 miles ago. Car running fine, no smoke, no noise. Suddenly, last night I had a dramatic loss of power. The car will not rev above about 2800 rpm (unless going downhill). The engine runs ok with no peculiar noise or smell and the temperature stays ok. I'm thinking a sudden turbo failure. Anyone care to comment ?

Right, I’ve had a look and for others reference here’s what I found. First, the rattling screw turned out to be a spring clip which the garage displaced when fitting the new wiper motor. I removed the tailgate plastic cover by first undoing the torx screw holding the rubber handle used for pulling the boot closed then levering off the trim. It’s just held on with spring clips but makes quite a worrying noise when you pull it off. Check that you have recovered all the spring clips at this stage. The boot lock is held on by 3 torx screws (which can be a bit tight). Remove these and carefully manoeuvre the lock from the tailgate as it has a wire still attached. Unplug the wire and the lock is now free. The other half of the lock is fitted behind a cover on the lower part of the frame (just above the bumper). This is covered by a plastic panel. Loosen the 3 plastic nuts visible in the spare wheel well and lever upwards to remove (spring clips again) This gives access to the 2 splined head bolts holding it to the car. Loosening these bolts allows the part to slide for adjustment. I found that my lock mechanism was u/s and as it is a riveted assembly there‘s not much that you can easily do to fix it. A new unit is the answer I think. Part Number:1Z5 827 501C I believe Thanks for the search pointers .....

Ahhh... Thanks. I'll try that

Hi Firstly, I don't use this forum much (the cars too reliable )is there a search facility ? Assuming no, as it says in the title, my tailgate keeps popping open. I've recently had a new rear wiper motor fitted and I can hear a loose screw rolling inside the tailgate when I shut it. The car is: Skoda Octavia TDI 4X4 Estate 1896cc (1.9) First Reg 14.06.2006 (an 06 plate) Is the catch adjustable and if so how (A step by step guide would be very helpful) Thanks in anticipation

Octavia TDI 4X4 Estate 06 plate My rear wiper has stopped working. Fuse looks ok. How does the rear trim detach from the tailgate ? (i assume this has to be removed to check the motor). Any known faults ?

I am looking to dispose of my lovely 75000 mile VRS and replace it with a 1.9 diesel estate (towing and country lanes in future !). I have tried my local dealers for a test drive (Burton upon Trent area) but it seems the car is rare and to date I have had no luck. Anyone know of a car that I can travel to ?