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Agerbundsen is absolutely right about the danger of overtorquening the screws, and 1.5 Nm means really light load on the wrench, so not too easy to get it right by hand. I did in fact purchase a torque wrench specifically on that occasion, though it's going to be used a lot more on my bike. As some very crude guide, I actually put the mudflaps on the car the previous day, tightening the screws just enough to not get lost (i.e. I stopped probably a quarter to half turn after I began feeling the increasing resistance once the screw got fully in). When I followed with the torque wrench the next day, I found that they needed only very little further tightening (probably quarter to 3/4 turn). Sadly, you can't find cheap low-torque wrenches, so, unless you're willing to invest in one (arguably a good idea if you also do cycling, though the typical torques there are higher: around 5 to 40 Nm), probably the best solution is to borrow it (in fact, had I not been living that far, I'd gladly oblige with mine). Failing that, a screwdriver instead of a wrench might be safer alternative. Admittedly, that would be more difficult because of the wheel getting in the way, but on the other hand (if the wheel can be rotated enough to not interfere) it's much less likely to inadvertently overtighten the screws with a screwdriver than with a wrench. One last thing to note: I found that the screws needed to be retightened after some ride. In fact, I had retightened them twice or even three times (can't remember exactly) up to the prescribed torque before they seemed to lock steadily in place. I doubt that they would have come so loose as to fall and get lost, but I felt safer that way. (Ah, yes, that perfectionism. ) Oh, and one very last thing: it's really important to get that hitch on the top of the mudflap in the right place, as indicated by the warning sign in the instructions.

Could you possibly be referring to the "simultaneous mirror adjustment" function: Setup --> Convenience (or Comfort) --> Mirror adjust., pp. 26-27 of the manual? P.S. That's a function of the Maxi-DOT display -- forgot to mention.

I wouldn't say its exactly easy either -- at least not when you're at the wheel and have better things to concentrate on. Of course, if you do such driving regularly, it is, indeed, likely to become almost automatic action.

Well, I guess VW should start working on triple clutch DSG then... Now try to surprise that gearbox with your decisions.

I'm speaking about the option described on p. 26 in the owner's manual. When activated, it shows the speed in MPH below the speed in KPH -- if I remember correctly just above the outside temperature -- and with temperature's font size. So, it's really small and not that convenient, but better than nothing, still. However, it just came to me that it must be indeed an option available only on LHD vehicles -- because their speedometer is marked only in KPH, and if you were to drive in UK, you'd find it very hard to calculate the MPH speed otherwise. Ah, sorry to hear that it has been deactivated on UK vehicles... Come to think of it, I wonder if it's possible to activate it via VCDS. :wonder:

There is, however, that option "Alt. speed dis." in the "Setup" menu which shows the speed in mph in addition to the one in kph. It's not the same (rather smaller font size), but could be helpful, if you feel more comfortable with digital readouts.

Indeed... While I really like the UK, I'm also rather happy to live in a country where cars drive on the "right" ( ) side of the road... Concerning the effectiveness, AFAIK, the tourist function doesn't actually reverse the beam pattern -- it simply cuts its upper part in both directions.

That's correct. See p. 56 of the owner's manual:

And here's how it looks like. Hope that helps, too.

I can speak about the front ones: very easy to install, indeed. There's only one tricky part, where you need to insert a small catch (not sure if that's the correct technical name) on the mud flap behind the wheel arch mudguard, but that easy enough, too -- just don't forget it (it's in the instructions, anyway). Now, I'd recommend using a torque wrench to tighten the screws, as the required torque is rather small: just 1.5 Nm. And if you overtighten them, it's likely that you would damage whatever they're being screwed into -- probably some plastic. I also noticed that it makes sense to check the screws after some riding, because they could (and did) loosen themselves from the vibrations. I have to say, though, that while the flaps do protect the doors, they seem to achieve little in protecting the front, protruding side of the rear wheel arches, which is known to be readily chipped by small stones. For that specific place, it might be better to order the protective strips that are part of the "rough road package", unless your car is already fitted with such.

Wouldn't it be wiser to negotiate with the dealer that they keep the car as new (and try to sell it to someone impatient) and instead you make another order, paying the difference in price and, of course, also certain surcharge to cover dealer's expenses and trouble. Of course, that would mean another wait for you, but it might be much less painful for your pocket.

Let me again emphasize that those manuals on eBay are 99.99% illegal copies, so it really doesn't make much difference whether you buy them or download the software yourself. Well, probably there's less risk of getting something nasty (like a trojan horse) along when you buy it, but, then again, those sellers are pretty anonymous guys, so probably there's actually more risk with them... Obviously, it's a matter of personal preference of trust. For anyone technically inclined, there's a lot of interesting information in ElsaWin, as I said earlier, but again, unfortunately, you can't really use the full functionality unless you are connected to VW/Skoda's servers. For instance, I'd be very happy to keep an eye on the service bulletins being issued for my car -- and that's probably much more important than knowing how to disassemble the engine, which I wouldn't be able to do anyway, because of the many special tools and equipment required. BTW, have also in mind that ElsaWin is pretty old software, and therefore somewhat tricky to install and use on more modern operating systems like Windows 7 or Vista.

Al right, let me take the role of the helpful soul... http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/154079-workshop-manual-on-ebay/

AFAIK, VW (and Skoda) doesn't sell ELSA/ETKA to end-users, so these are likely illegal copies. And since they are illegal, it doesn't make much sense to buy them, considering you can always find a torrent with the (almost) current ELSA/ETKA version and download it for free. In fact, it's very likely that the seller did exactly that. The real problem, however (besides using illegal software, that is), is that in the recent years VW has strongly moved towards online-based services. A lot of information is still available offline, but for an increasing number of things you have to be connected to VW/Skoda, and, of course, you cannot be connected unless you are an authorized dealer/workshop. Now, VW obviously realized they are missing potential clients, so they created erWin, which is a completely Internet-based system, also available to "private persons". It's subscription based and is not necessarily very cheap, but my strongest complaint was more about the contents. I purchased the shortest possible subscription -- one hour -- to check my VIN and see what's available. That was 3-4 months ago and there was virtually nothing about the Yeti. In fact, very little was available for the Fabia and the Octavia, too. Unfortunately, I have no idea whether something had changed since. https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/ Edit: Oops, forgot the most important thing -- the link to Skoda's erWin.

Yeti won last year's group test against the Qashqai, too... http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/grouptests/242077/skoda_yeti_vs_nissan_qashqai.html

Aah, sorry, haven't noticed John mentioning Einszett's site before me. Anyway, I do hope that independently confirming Gummi Pflege's effectiveness is going to help some folks here. Good luck, indeed!

Let me share my experience as well (I've been contemplating to write a thorough review of my Yeti for at least a month now, but still can't organize myself to do it.) From purchase, my Yeti has been extremely quiet, and I hardly could be happier. That was in March, however, and there was a lot of dirt on the streets, of course, so I had to wash it rather frequently. As I tend to be perfectionist as well, I also decided to give it a good waxing. Mind you, that was the first time I waxed a car, and, indeed, I should have known better... The next day, I was stunned to hear the car creaking all around when moving slowly over uneven terrain. And I mean creaking a lot. To be honest, at first I didn't realize what the reason was, until I read somewhere over the internet the following: As I was wondering whether that was my problem and how could I possibly clean the seals, I stumbled upon information about Gummi Pflege. Indeed, it was suggested as a solution for old rubber seals that produce creaking (obviously, the seals on my Yeti are anything but old), but since I didn't have any better idea, I decided to give it a try. And it worked. Perfectly. Thank God! I have indeed heard that BMW no longer offers Gummi Pflege. However, it is pretty much still in production. In fact, it's a product of the well-known German company Einszett, which had supplied it rebadged to BMW. I'd recommend checking their sites: http://www.einszett.de/ (main site), http://www.einszett.co.uk/ (UK regional). Here's the Gummi Pflege product page itself. You can also find it on eBay, though at least the one I bought wasn't cheaper (but they shipped to Bulgaria, which was important to me). So, again, at least in my experience the creaking was caused by excessive wax that got on the rubber seals, and treating them with Gummi Pflege fixed the problem. I suppose (though I haven't tested) that it was especially bad with those seals on the top of the plastic front columns where they overlap with the roof. There's always some play there and the wax just gets in between so easily, yet is rather difficult to remove. Hope that helps. Cheers, Luchesar

This excerpt from VW's ELSA might be quite interesting as well. Shows very well the difference in the engine control systems and the production periods. I updated the information in Wikipedia as well, hopefully without errors (got tired after updating the Bulgarian article before that :zzz:). BTW, rather strange that CDAB is presented as only EU4 compliant. Must be a typo, I suppose. Also, other sources suggest the 1.2 TSI is 8v SOHC, yet here the number of valves per cylinder is 4, so it must be 16v DOHC after all, unless that's a typo too. Nevertheless fixed that in Wikipedia as well; now waiting for the angry reactions.

For those interested in the topic, here's the discussion from TDIClub's forums.

That's what worries me, too. And, again, the "BMM" engine is probably still too new, so one can only guess how durable it will turn out to be. It's not cheap for sure. But for a Scout and in Germany, it seems a fair price, if not really a bargain. And, again, while the mileage is high, the car is quite new in terms of age. The history is a must, though -- I fully agree with that.

Do I understand correctly that you bought yours at 64,000 miles? May I ask also how old has it been at that time, too? Well, in any case, I suppose that today's cars are more fragile then those of the pre-turbo era -- at least the diesels. In fact, I know many people having their newly bought cars stay in the garage for weeks, sometimes even months. Not Skodas, thankfully, though.

Indeed, the oil deteriorates even by just being exposed to atmospheric air, where it oxygenates slowly, loosing its lubrication properties.

It's the VNT15 series (smaller than both 16 and 17-ies, AFAIK), but should give a nice general idea in case anyone hasn't seen such before... http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html

I've just stumbled upon this topic (also interesting if you were curious as to how a BMM engine looks like.) Take a look at post #42: