fordfan
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Posts posted by fordfan
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Any Skoda genuine accessories fitted by the dealer at the pre delivery inspection should be warranted for as long as the car - 2 years unlimited mileage or 3 years/60,000 miles.
If you select reverse gear and place a stethoscope on the sensor, you'll be able to hear them working.
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Bear in mind that seatbelts contain the pretensioner and are explosive, take the same precautions that you would do with an airbag when handling them.
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All MK1 Fabias are on 10,000 miles or 1 year service intervals.
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It's changed a bit since I did the factory tour in 1992.
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i notice MOT is 04/2016- now HOW the f**k did it get an MOT, with reported damage , UNLESS --- tester has vision problems .
It was fixed before the test was done, don't confuse the MOT test with a vehicle condition report.
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I've seen similar in a MK 2 Octavia. The crash sensor was located in the drivers door and the wiring to it was broken at the yellow plug where it came out of the A post. It may be worth a quick check there.
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We've had a few cars off you over the years for our customers, it's sad that you're closing, but at least it's being done under your own terms. Good luck at Trans City, is Mr Hunt still in charge there?
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DRLs aren't testable, if they were activated and one wasn't working, I'd advise it out of courtesy. Some DRLs are designed to dim and act as position lamps which are testable, though it would be a silly design that would prevent them from functioning as position lights if they were deactivated.
One anomaly with the test is that if a nearside rear fig lamp lens was broken and it was showing white light to the rear, it can't be failed as it's not testable, only the offside rear fog lamp is testable.
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I chucked the wheels on it on Saturday and the wheel wobble has disappeared, it drives quite nicely now.
I took it to a show at the local transport museum yesterday, it was a bit wet:
Despite the weather we had a good turn out, even if at one point it did look like a Ford show, we even had a free ride on an old bus.
Some pictures of the Cortina, taken by others:
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What's the MAP sensor showing - readings wise? It could be the EGR not closing correctly and messing up the manifold vacuum. You could rule it out if you can blank it off temporarily.
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We're not allowed to remove covers if it means using tools, so we advise that they're fitted as we can't see through them.
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Time for another update. Just over a week ago I collected the cylinder head, with it just being a bit short of 3 weeks it gave me plenty of time to clean things up and break an important part.
Cleaning:
Manifold with an attempt to repair the coolant outlet that I broke:
Replacement manifold, sourced locally from a friend who had heard of my predicament from a friend of a work colleague, (you can't keep anything a secret
)Cylinder head, at home on the table for the valve clearances to be set:
The water pump, you can imagine the sate of the cooling system. It was flushed along with the radiators, new coolant and now a toasty heater.
Finally all assembled along with new timing and fan belts:
http://s5.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina/media/VID_20150314_144039.mp4.html
That's the engine sorted after a tune up, which could be similar to a remap except that you do it with screw drivers, spanners, timing lights, dwell meters and a gas analyser, whilst burning yourself on the aforementioned red hot heater hoses whilst adjusting the carburettor.
Next stop - the brakes. Brave/stupid Cortina owners use the jacking points when raising the car on a 2 post lift:
Which was worth it to skim the discs to this finish:
Along with a new set of pads, it now stops as it should - in a straight line, without any vibration.
The wheels have been previously mentioned and I'll admit that they aren't the prettiest. I've got a set of these going on next weekend and I've gone up 20mm on the tyre width.
And for the first time since buying it, I got round to giving it a wash.
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Whenever I order them from TPS, they like to have the part number of the filter housing which helps them to get the correct one.
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The ports are usually powered continuously, whenever I connect a reader to them the reader always powers up from the port without the ignition on. The ignition needs to be on to supply power to the controllers so that they can be read.
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Can we all please note that the OP is in Northern Ireland and they appear to have very different rules on their MOT testing.
The DVLNI testers manual is here:
http://www.doeni.gov.uk/index/information/foi/recent-releases/publications-details.htm?docid=9865
Its wording is identical to the DVSA manual that we use, on the tyre section that mentions the spare wheel:
DVLNI
This inspection applies to:
Tyres fitted to the road wheels only, except in the case of a PSV. The vehicle presenter should be informed when it is noticed that there is a defective tyre on a spare wheel. No comment should be made where a spare wheel is not present.
DVSA
This inspection applies to tyres fitted to the road wheels only. The vehicle presenter should be informed when it is noticed that there is a defective tyre on a spare wheel.
Being told that an out of date inflation/repair system, or that a defective spare is a failure is wrong.
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Cold running will be a broken thermostat - part number 047121111S. Get the fault codes read for the steering and look at the live data for the angle sensor, though from the symptoms that you describe it could be battery related. Does the battery light come on? is it charging correctly?, how old is the battery?
The MPi is an old Skoda design engine, so fuel consumption will not be as good as the more modern designs.
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I removed a door panel off a Roomster and the mirror switch exploded all over the workshop floor, the springs behind the contacts - never to be seen again. I found some similar and got it working.
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If all keys were not available to the dealer when the dash panel was replaced they wouldn't have been coded to the immobiliser.
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Chances are bits of the lock cylinder are broken, you can get repair kits from a dealer for less than £10, remove the barrel and sort it out in an hour. There's a kit here for sale:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-door-lock-repair-kit-339-/161552583033
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Just before the Copen was launched in the UK, the importers sent a Japanese spec one out to do the rounds of the dealers. We got a few funny looks driving that around town.
We had one in a while back with boot opening problems, which means that the roof doesn't work. Two new side latch sensors cured it, but there was a bit of alake in the boot close to the roof and window control units.
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Any exposed cords are a fail, as are any lumps or bulges that indicate a failure of the structure. Any cuts need to be at least 25mm in length or 10% of the tyre width (whichever is greater) before they are allowed to be probed to look for cords. However the tester could position such a cut so that the vehicles weight is on it, which would open it up for a visual check for exposed cords.
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Did you try a wet and dry compression test? My thoughts are that a misfire on one of these engines that doesn't move with relocating the coil pack on the offending cylinder is usually down to something mechanically wrong with that cylinder.
If a wet compression test made no difference, I would suspect a valve problem. An incorrectly seated exhaust valve doesn't usually make a big difference on the compression test, it sounds as though the valve is cracked. If you can, a leak down test would help more to ascertain the problem before you remove the head.
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There are three smoke test limits that apply to a measured smoke test:
For vehicles first used before 1st July 2008 they are:
2.50/m for non turbo
3.00/m for turbo
For vehicles first used after 1st July 2008 it is:
1.50/m for non turbo and turbo.
In my experience they should be capable of passing at 1.50/m, providing that they are given a good hard drive before the test.
I find that DPF equipped vehicles often fail to register anything at all and are almost always well below the limit, I've only ever seen one register above 1.00/m.
I would have thought that it would be straight forward to engineer the remap to be quite clean when the engine is revved up to its governed speed when the car is in neutral, the parking brake applied and the car is not moving. It's getting increasingly more common for the standard map to limit the engine speed to half its maximum under such conditions.
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Crazy car projects.
in General Automotive Chat
Posted
A mini, with Sierra Cosworth running gear.
http://www.sucksqueezebangblow.co/2014/06/cosworth-mini.html