fordfan
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Posts posted by fordfan
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It's good to hear that you've got it sorted.
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Getting on for 3 months later, time for an update. I went out to a local car club meet in it, it was good blasting down the outside lane of the A12 behind another Cortina.
General fettling and cleaning around the engine bay and a few stickers added for coolant, engine capacity on air filter, brake fluid and rear panel logo.
Replaced a bulb, wired in the radio correctly, added an alarm some immobilisers and remote central locking, removed some extra wiring and interior lights which were added by the previous owner.
Today I went to replace the valve stem oil seals, using a lever so that I didn't need to remove the head. I nearly completed the first one which was fiddly and thought that I didn't fancy doing the next seven too much.
This was the result:
I may as well get an unleaded conversion done and clean up the bits that I can now get to.
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Fuse blown, usually a 10 amp mini blade in the fusebox on the end of the dash.
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As long as you're methodical in your checking, you should find the leak. Have a look in the engine bay (be careful of moving parts), have a good torch and follow the brake lines, check the master cylinder unions and follow the pipes to the ABS block. You can always remove each wheel in turn and support safely on an axle stand and check the unions at the pipes, flexible hoses and the calipers. There may be some pipe joins hidden under covers under the car, but the speed at which the fluid level reduces, I would expect to see some evidence.
If you don't feel confident, don't mess with brakes, get a garage to look at it.
We had a Fabia in for MOT a while back, brake fluid warning flashing and making a noise, low fluid, an obvious leak and the back seats filled with child seats - apparently (according to the owner) it had been like that for some time.
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When we conduct a MOT test we always check the hydraulics for leaks whilst they are under pressure. This involves having an assistant in the car with the engine running, operating the brake pedal. I've found a few leaks this way, even on cars that have just been serviced.
It could be coming out the rear of the master cylinder into the servo and getting burnt by the engine, or it could be a leak in the clutch hydraulics. The clutch shares the same reservoir, but it's take off is higher than the lowest part of the reservoir so a leak there won't completely empty it.
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Think yourself lucky, if you got a traffic cop on a bad day he could take you to court for it as it contravenes Construction and Use Regs.
CU regs state :
(3) All glass or other transparent material fitted to a motor vehicle shall be maintained in such condition that it does not obscure the vision of the driver while the vehicle is being driven on a road.
From here:
http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1986/1078/part/II/chapter/E/made
The damage as described and viewed with reference to the MOT special notice , here:
Says to me that that Coppers day will get worse by making such a monumental **** up, which would likely be compounded when he attempts to measure the tread depth on a tyre on part of it which isn't a primary groove.
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The windscreen fail is a bit harsh, if it's not affecting the drivers view it shouldn't fail, have a read of this special notice:
The tester can only take a tread depth measurement in a primary groove that is within the centre 3 quarters of the tread. Have a look at the testers manual of the definition of tyre tread and what can be measured:
http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s04000107.htm
I had to pass this the other day, I didn't want to , but I could only justifiably advise it.
Funnily enough that was on a Jaguar.
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Years ago we hardly ever replaced rear drums, just to occasional wheel cylinder at not a lot of £. We now regularly replace rear discs, rear pads, rear calipers and have issues with them on the MOT test. For workshop revenue generation, they're great, though I doubt that they're necessary from an engineering viewpoint, though it looks good in the specification for marketing purposes.
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Very impressive, as usual with your projects, this is going to be a top notch job.
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Try cleaning and resetting the throttle body, also check that the thermostat hasn't broken up by removing the engine coolant temperature sensor (when the engine is cold) and having a look.
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It's usually on the data sticker in the boot and service book, you could try looking for a sticker on the cam belt cover. CR engines tend to have a 4 digit code.
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Blown fuse somewhere.
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Having it play up whilst doing a 3 point turn would make me think of a battery/charging problem, as the steering can demand a lot of current.
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Why have BMW being recently silently rolling out a software fix to prevent their group cars from being opened using a mobile phone?
And since when did we allow discussion of moderating issues in public?, that's against the rules as well.
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Isn't it worrying that when a manufacturer gets its product to do what it's meant to do. they call it an enhancement?
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Assume it's just a metal / ally pedal cover?
It's not an enhancement in the sense of making it more up market/improving it. It's an 'enhancement' to rectify a design/functional fault so that it does what its meant to. They're hardly likely to say that we need to see your car to correct a mistake.
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On the above link to Skoda fixed price servicing, it says:
Spark plugs† (petrol engine) or fuel filter† (diesel engine)
† These items will be replaced, if required. This will be determined by the manufacturer's service regime data.
It would seem that there is no scheduled replacement of the fuel filter on a petrol engine.
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There's no self test required for a SRS warning lamp, if it's illuminated and indicating a fault - it's a fail, if it doesn't illuminate - it's an advisory. It's best to get the testing procedure from the official manual here:
http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s05000401.htm
and not from a third party out of date source, here:
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_540.htm
Compare the differences.
However, your car should fail for a missing SRS component that was fitted as standard. All UK Fabias had a drivers air bag and if you did attempt to argue that it was the one that didn't get one fitted the number of airbags fitted is encoded in the VIN.
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Be careful, Santa Pod has an element of competitiveness in that the run is timed and the cars are often run against each other.
Some years back I was told by the owner of a M BMW that he was only allowed to use the launch control 5 times, any more than that and the warranty was void.
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As above, which is confirmed if you disconnect the electrical plug and find that its filled with oil. It shouldn't really be much more than £30 supplied and fitted.
I have removed your duplicate topic in the VCDS section.
It seems to be explained clearly enough for me.
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He doesn't appear to have taken into account that a car can be written off soley due to a cosmetic repair being required that doesn't impact on the vehicles structure at all.
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Following a similar principle, if you were ever in a critical low fuel situation, remember to drive quickly so you reach your destination before you run out.
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, then the NOx output from a diesel engine will be virtually zero and the arguments put forward by the Dispatches will be nullified over night.
There lies the fundamental problem in our thinking, when you mention engine (above), you mean the vehicle that has had all manner of devices and computer control added on to it to clean up what comes out of the engine. These are fine for the time that the car is under warranty, when it gets to over 3 year old and is on its second or third owner, that's when the work arounds to replacing/fixing failing emissions equipment start and when it gets to the 7.5 year old average age of UK cars, they won't be worth spending the money on.
Diesel will always be a horrible smelly fuel and that's before you burn it. You only have to see the big soot stain on the concrete outside our MOT bay to see how dirty it burns, even the ones fitted with particulate filters smell toxic. A cleaner burning fuel is the way to go, LPG or Hydrogen, even electricity produced in nuclear power stations would be a healthier option to power cars.
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"vehicle using the relevant control."
Can that include using the lever inside to unlock it before using the external handle to open?
Yes it can. Get the back doors unlocked and disconnect the plug where it passes through the B post, you can then lock/unlock manually. As long as they can be opened from the outside and they latch securely, they won't be a MOT problem.
Funny indicator tell-tail light
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
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It could be AC tronics who repaired it.