ahar

Same for me as @G-man-kodiaq At least I don;t need to do the toggle wifi thing now

Hi mate Got your message, but thought I would reply here for people searching the thread in the future. I've swapped the car now, but had 4 years (2019 to 2023) with the retro fit towbar and everything worked fine for the whole period. Around once a month from April to September I would use it to tow my racecar on a trailer to competitions - overall weight of trailer and racecar was probably 950kgs (trailer around 350kgs, racecar 600 kgs - a Caterham so its small and light). Car was also packed with racing stuff - spare wheels and tyres, tools, spare parts for racecar etc etc. I had a couple of race meetings where the temp was 30C plus during the day and the car's cooling never struggled when towing there or back. The alarm going off when you detached the trailer electrics with the car was locked and alarm primed only worked intermittently, but the rest of the electrics like the stability programme etc worked well. Never had any issues with the operation of the towbar either. I remember that I had to specify an RS specifically however when getting it fitted as the fitting to the crash structure was specific to the RS as you are finding. Also the exhaust was different with the RS, so the specific part was important I don't think that it cost any more, just needed to make sure it was the right one. Same with the wiring harness, but my car didn't have the prep so the guy had to take the harness all the way around the car into the bit behind the glove box. I'd hope with your factory prep the wiring would be present at the back of the car already. I still have the crash structure bar that was taken off the car to replace with the one for the towbar in my garage if a pic of it would help? Good luck with it

That does fix it, thanks. It's a pain switching WiFi off and on again, but at least I know how to get it working

Is that toggling wifi on your phone, or the car?

A small update. Had a VW TCross as a hire car last week - it was a 2023 model and the wireless Android Auto worked flawlessly. The radio system looked the same as the Skoda one (buttons, screen etc) but not sure the extent to which the radio systems behind the scenes are the same between my car and the hire car though. Have tried a number of settings on my phone and the car, and only once have I got it to work wirelessly without disconnecting after 10 seconds. I had been trying various different settings, switching the car on and off to switch off and on Android Auto on the car - had given up and suddenly it worked and didn't disconnect. Changed nothing and then it didn't work next time I was in the car. Really odd. The search will continue, and I'll update here if I find a solution

I *think* the issue is with my phone rather than the car, but I'm having a weird issue with Android Auto via wireless: It connects and works fine with a cable. Without a cable, I switch on the car and when Android Auto fires up it connects to my phone wirelessly and works fine for around 10 seconds. I know because Google maps appears in the right place, and if I had been previously listening to a podcast it auto plays from the right place as it does if you connect via a cable After 10 seconds or so, it disconnects and won't connect again when I manually try. If I then connect via a cable it works without a hitch. Don't have other Android phones in the house to try and make work. A bit of searching suggested it might be a battery saving setting in Android - had a fiddle with that, allowing continuous battery use for Android Auto but that doesn't seem to have fixed it. Wireless charging in the tray works fine. Car is a 2023 L&K with Columbus system Anyone had the same issue and found a solution? I;ve been through the usual guides to enable Wifi etc which is what got me from not working at all, to connects and works but then disconnects after 10 seconds.

I've just switched from a 2019 TDI VRS to a 2023 190 TSI engine (not VRS) and been really surprised how much better the throttle response is. I guess VAG took the feedback and made some changes to the software in the gearboxes

It's here! so a 7/8 month wait for a L&K TSI 190.

Ordered at the beginning of April - now October, still not sure when it will arrive. Happy with my current car so no biggie, but definitely longer than I was expecting.

Just placed an order today for a new Kodiaq - expecting at least 16 weeks, but lets see. Current Kodiaq VRS is still nice so in no hurry, but with second hand values as good as they are, seemed silly not to cash in the residual and get a new car with a few more gadgets @Estiveira have ordered mine in the same colour.

I retro fitted a towbar to my vrs back in 2019, and it has 1750kg as max weight on the plate inside the drivers door. No cooling changes required etc, and tows like a dream with no issues. Have a search for a previous thread I created with pics etc

I had an aftermarket tow bar fitted without the prep and it was at least an extra hour to run the wiring back to the fusebox etc so it should definitely save you in the installation

Which brochure is that page from? The one below is from the skoda website (https://www.skoda.co.uk/discover/download-a-brochure) and then pick the Kodiaq one....

Quick update as Skoda are at it again with homologation. I was looking to swap my 2019 Kodiaq for a 2022 one the dealer had in stock with a 200 PS TDI engine. Luckily I checked - the current models with the 200 TDI engine are not homologated for unbraked towing. The 150 TDI engine is, as is the TSI engine. Just not the top diesel engine. It is homologated for braked towing, to the same weight as the other engines. Very odd. Check page 30 of the brochure on Skoda website for details... https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/5782ef00-768c-43df-8faf-51cba9730287

Got mine (Kodiaq vRS) in June 2019, 22k miles since then. Issues so far - electric drivers seat stuff stopped working, fixed with a software reset. Also one of the pop out door protectors has pinged off. Haven't fixed that yet as it looks like you have to take the door card and trim off. Android Auto is a bit buggy when reading out traffic directions. Other than that, seems to be good

I have read that you can occasionally get that happening when the car receives a weird radar signature from something like a crisp packet blowing around. If you google "front assist crisp packet" you get a whole raft of hits of people on different forums complaining about it. Think it is a VW group thing.

Towbar express fitted an aftermarket one for me on my driveway (pics in this thread: ) Cost was £780

I had an aftermarket towbar fitted to my Kodiaq as I bought one from dealer stock and none of them had one already. It did take quite a bit of work from the fitter to get it in place and coded properly. it works well (although I only tow a race car and trailer, max 900 kg), though I definitely would have got a factory fit one instead if I could have.

I have a Kodiaq RS - Driving around town all week, 15 mins or so, then probably a longer drive at the weekend. Sometimes 30 mins, sometimes more. 20,000 kms (or 13k miles) and never had a regen light come on. For the longer journeys and towing, the RS is great

For various reasons, I bought a car from stock and it didn't have a tow bar so I got an aftermarket one fitted. While it works well, I'd definitely go for a factory fit as to make it work he had to take half the car apart and it really wasn't much cheaper

Good to head its sorted, and my local dealer was the one who sorted it I had a similar fault on a 206 and that was an intermittent fault on the ECU - thankfully my local dealer at the time had seen a few already so sorted it quickly (car was under warranty).

The main difference is the distance - I've booked a day at Anglesea and given its 300 miles away I don't want the speed restriction of a space saver, or a different size wheel

Going to be towing my caterham on a trailer a long way later this year - I'm worried about the hassle if I get a puncture that the goop can't repair. As I have a trailer, I have space for a full size spare (not a space saver) and I was thinking if I get one that matches the 20 inch rims that the vRS comes with, if I get a puncture I can just swap it and continue towing happily as before. I could buy the same wheel from skoda, but they are expensive - are there other options that will be cheaper? It must be able to go on the car and drive as before, no speed restrictions etc. I don't care that it will look odd having one wheel a different design. As I mentioned above, storing it isn't an issue, it'll go on the tyre rack on the trailer with my caterham spare wheels. Thoughts?

So can I mix and match 20 inch rims with an 18 inch? Assume I would need to ensure the profile of the tyre is greater to try and match the overall size of wheel and rim? (Obviously just as a temporary measure to get home)

Might have a fiddle around with the Canton sub to see if I can make room for the space saver...