flusher

i have fabia with 1.4 16V AUB engine. A2 has engine with AUA code, which is almost the same as mine, computer is the same magnetti marelli as mine, except the code, but i am sure it is pretty much the same inside and works with other electronics in the same way

buying a petrol clocks is not a problem. and it looks like the same shape as fabia. the craziest idea was to fit a fabia 2 clocks

Hi, anyone tried to fit a fancy audi a2 clocks. I was looking for maxidot fabia but that is impossible to have So audi a2 is a fabia/polo clone, right. Wiring will not fit, it has different plugs and wires, but basically it can work on fabia since it is the same car! So i am thinking is it worth triying to fit it? the main questions is: will it fit inside the dash without cuts of plastics? what functions will i have over the standard fabia? wires is not a problem, but will fabia ECU and BSI work with a2 clocks over can and display valid info? will immobiliser work and can it be programmed to fabia ecu? have all the stuff like vagcom, eeprom programmers and right hand. but am i first who ever thought about that?

anyone?

so what is the end of the story? mine does the same thing. but i dont think it is light potentiometer as it controls the brightness over all devices in the car and it is only the dash which is flickering. someone told me that voltage regualtor inside dashboard needs to be changed. but i am not sure about that as i undestand that stuff and it is only an illuminaton problem of the dashboard, not the whole unit shut off.

well i thought someone here would know

well as i said before the thread is not about the switch failure. its about which is the latest(and most reliable) part number that i can fit

there is no fault by now for a week already. brake light works and no epc light. the switch is not dead and not 100% working and reliable so i am looking for replacement. no vw dealership near me :wonder:

hi, recently i had strange problem at morning - my epc light on and no brake lights at all for whole day. vag com showed: 16955 - Brake Switch (F): Implausible Signal P0571 - 35-00 - - cleared and again the same for second day. cleared on third day and everything is ok for a whole week now. very strange. anyway i am in search for a brake light switch but every thread i look i cant find what is the part number of the most recent fabia 1 brake switch (4 wired). i guess it must be green. here i found that the latest is 1J0 945 511 F http://www.fabia-vrs.com/technical-info/brake-pedal-switch-failures/ but its already changed to 1J0 945 511 E and somewhere i found that the most latest is 1C0 945 511 ANAR but i dont know if it will fit my fabia. by the way, its not VRS, a ussual 2000 year elegance 1.4 AUB (100hp)

mine ecu is original. so your guess is 2 and 3 cylinders have more carbon crap there? wynns combustion chamber cleaning will cure the problem? what about the catalytic convertor and lambda's? they are very expensive if they will die :(

mate, just take a 10-20ml syringe and a piece of straight rubber tube(for example take a "dropper", i dont know what it calls on English - the thing that injects the glucose 5% into the blood veins slowly) put the tube (with the syringe on the other end) into the oil gauge hole and suck the desired ammount of oil and here you go - back on the road!

well, i have vagcom and i diagnosted the knock sensor group and it seems fine. the ignition altering 0 at idle and when it pinks it can get up to 10 degrees (14 is max available) or more i dont know, havent time to test and patience when it pinks. and in group 26 there are voltages of knock sensor to each cylinders and they are 0.3V +-0.1V for each cylinder in idle, which is normal. so i suppose the knock sensor is fine. about ingition - what exactly do you mean? igintion angle in this engine is automatic. i have changed all spark plugs three times (original, NGK, now running on finwhale), measured the resistance of the ignition wires with caps: longest - 6.25Kom shorter - 6Kom more shorter - 5.9Kom shortest - 6.08Kom and it seems fine someone suggested me that timing belts wasnt set right. timing belts and rollers was changed only once on this car and the pinking was before i changed it. the service man said that he set marks correctly as it was, but maybe i need to double check it with some other service man or by myself? but lets imagine that one teeth is incorrect, what will be the compression readings then?

hi again ive just got the seals for oil separator but still havent cleaned it but today i did the compression test at some local garage service 1 - 12,5 2 - 14,5 3 - 14 4 - 12 elsa tells that new engine is 10-15, minimum is 7 and max difference between cylinders is 3. well i dont know exactly is my compression is good, but i think its not that bad to pink like an old cart. any thoughts?

yes i know, but i have clean spark plugs! so its not the case. its just clogged crankcase breather with oil separator, which is common problem or VW 1.4 8-16 valve engines. look here: http://golf3-club.ru/forum/index.php?s=&showtopic=271&view=findpost&p=52771 its not english speaking forum but there are pictures that will show you what exactly i am talking about

well i am not agree with you, the car runs good (not best) and there is no signs of engine worn, so i will clean the oil separator first and do compression test and report here. thanks

thanks, but there is no information on crankcase breather in elsawin at all.

you need to measure the resistance of the rear window defroster, maybe its too low or shortcircuited and consume more than your fuse

hey guys, i am back here with still old same problem. i didnt done the compression test, but i have new info, maybe it can help you guys to assist me. i have elsawin and have tested deeply my car today, but not the whole as i wanted coz my laptop battery died like a crap. the knock sensor is fine. tested in 22/23 measurment blocks. on idle i have no ignition angle relief. but when i drive on low revs and accelerate in hills i have pinking sound from bonnet and values showing around 10 degree or more of ignition angle relief in all cylinders, so i guess the knock sensor is ok and works fine, its just not enough to deal with the crap fuel mixture to burn it correctly or something... next. i wanted to change the air filter. i have undone all screws and found out that all are covered in oil. so that how my car eating my oil slowly... here is the pics: well i didnt changed the air filter because there is no point in that, all will be in oil again... i know that it is that thing under that inlet manifold that somekind of engine crankcase breather. i heard it needs cleaning, but i didnt done that before and dont know what exactly what to do there. any help here? well i have ordered the two seals that is used in that block and will try to clean it or something in near future anyway... next when i opened airfilter i have found out that the inlet flap that choose the intake source is jammed in down position so it always grabbing air from the heat shield. i tried to heat with the zippo and used spirit to cold it but nothing happens! what i need to do here? i think its bad when it always take pre-heated oxygen to intake. thanks

will do compression test soon. which values you had?

this is suicide!!!

then how to clean the combustion chamber? i know that method of cleaning by wynns chemicals for example, but i am afraid that catalytic convertor will be blocked by the crap going from the cylinders. but that is not the main problem. i had a new front lambda and if it dies again, i will set this car on fire lol please more opinions. thanks

i have changed 3 pair of plugs - original, ngk bkur6et, now finwhale fs-23 running. well about airleaks i dont know how to check them, but i notice that i have idle pulsing a little. dont know what is the problem, but i will replace air filter, fuel filter soon. also i want to clear the injectors on wynns stand. and want to check the compression in cylinders. of course i perfomed all the adaptations of throttle body etc, but thats didnt change anything. i will try to find the second hand knock sensor but the nearest skoda breaker is 350km from me :(

no guarantee that it will be working there :( and how explain that it doesnt pink when engine is cold? i think it something with EGR, because it activates only when car is warm to normal temp

i have checked the mvbs where it supposed to registed detonation and drived a little in the city and it didnt register any values. i am not sure about knock sensor, but i will try to refit it and check that 20nm just checked it costs 50$ new and thats not good if it will not solve my problem

Hi, i am from Ukraine and cant solve my problem here. i have my fabia 1.4 AUB 2000 year with 103000km. second owner about a year. car perfoms great(except the slow accelerator pedal, can it be solved???) and have low fuel consumption. now the bad - its really pinking like a b*tch uphills and when i try to accelerate fastly on low revs. i want to clear some points that i found out: - 98-100 petrol makes it better a little - cold motor = no pinking changed front lambda(was faulty), sparkplugs, filters, cleared and adapted egr, throttle body, checked all that i can! vag shows no errors, readiness code all passed. i have several questions to you, if you have time, please answer. hope you guys can help me. 1 - i am thinking about the EGR cr*p, i have cleaned it with the throttle body after i bought the car, it didnt showed any vag errors and i did that just to be sure its clean and i didnt know any pinking, but i cant say for sure that it began to pink after i touched it. so i read this topic http://briskoda.net/diagnostics-vag-com/1-4-16v-aub-engine-pinking/119075/ and my measurement block 74 shows adp ok but i cant do anything to start test on block 75. i have elsawin and did all there as should but it always says test off! i cant force it to test on. what i need to do exactly? also i am thinking about egr tightening or gasket change but i am not sure, my guess is no leaks there, but who knows... 2 - few month ago i opened air filter box and found there a some kinda valve, but i couldnt get it to work by water or hot lamp. now i know that i need a cold water or possibly ice to test it, i will try. but if it will be faulty - what should i do? replace it or throw it away and stick the valve to some position? can it be the reason to engine pinking? please help me, i like my car but thats pinking making me mad, its sooo loud so everyone is looking at me like i am driving some kinda junk!