xman

Well...I'm guessing here..could be a manufacturing fault in the casting, or something broke off first and when you stopped to fill up it fell somewhere where it jammed the camshaft. Alternatively, Water pump could have seized. On restart, a piston hits a valve (at least 2 exhaust valves) and smashes off the camshaft supports. I would expect cambelt damage or break in all these situations. Could also be something introduced into the cam area inadvertently, through the oil filler which finds its way under a lobe. Inspection of all debris and the camcover could give some clues. Some or maybe a lot of damage may have occurred consequently after an initial failure by repeatedly attempting to turn over the engine where the pistons were then hitting the valves. All very strange as I wouldn't have thought the camshaft could flex enough to break those pieces, maybe the camshaft is now bent? Easy enough to check by spinning it In any case, the head is written off, you need a complete new one. Could also be damage to pistons. New belt, waterpump etc

You have to be logged in and its located at the bottom of your post next to the Quote button. See below... As you are a new member with few posts you only have a limited time after posting to edit, can't remember how long, maybe 30 minutes, after that the option disappears and you cant edit the post further.

Ugly! Where were/are all the broken bits, the missing/broken off cam carrier/bearing bridge pieces? I'm surprised when the first one broke off that it didnt suffer massive damage shortly after - locked camshaft, stripped belt, valve/piston disaster. For that many to break off and still run is almost impossible to comprehend. It looks as if the the cam bearings and at least one of the lobes has suffered lack of lubrication, perhaps very wrong oil. If any bits were missing, nowhere to be found, it suggests the previous owner had sold it knowing full well of the problem. Alternatively, it could be associated with the cambelt change. Mistimed on that major damaged side (the camshaft sensor appears to be on the other camshaft on the still intact side). Valves kissing the piston crowns leading to constant vertical mechanical shocking of the camshaft leading to stress failure of the bridge pieces. Full head off stripdown will reveal.

Depends on the headlight type/variant fitted. Some can be adjusted others not. Consult the downloadable owners manual for your build date to find out.

I've researched this topic extensively and several methods are suggested. As far as I can make out, for Superb iii with conventional dash, the method is something like Sit in car, doors closed, bonnet too. Press and hold SET button under dash clocks, turn on ignition (don't start engine), still holding down SET, wait until a "Reset Oil service?" message appears in the dash, continue holding SET and eventually a "Reset Inspection service?" message appears, immediately release the SET button and then press it again and release to do the reset. Not sure if it acknowledges, but then turn off the ignition. Note that resetting this way will set the interval to fixed. Never done it yet on my Superb so no guarantees. Good luck.

What I would probably do..... First thing to check is both sides of the slave cylinder move freely in/out and one side is not stuck/seized. The shoes may not be sitting centrally. The shoes can be slid up/down on the slave cylinder/bottom pivot. Release the adjustment wedge and make sure the handbrake lever at the shoe end is in the fully released position. I suggest you measure carefully from the edge of the hub to top and bottom outer edge of the linings. Push the shoe set up or down until these measurements are equal. After replacing the drum and T30 screw, the first thing I do is to very firmly stand on the brake pedal several times, releasing quickly, do not apply handbrake. This should help centralise the shoes and set the aduster. Check you can spin the drum. If it still binds, release the adjuster by pushing ot up through one of the bolt holes using a screwdriver. Spin the drum and again firmly the brake pedel to reset the adjuster and position the shoes. Finally apply the handbrake firmly several times, keep an eye on the T bar at cable ends at the handbrake end. Check they are more or less equal cable lengths side to side when applied. If this doesnt work, it could be the slave cylinder is faulty, sticking or something, you assembled something wrong, or the shoe kit has a faulty dimensioned part on that side (unlikely).

Eurocarparts https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/ring-13-pin-plug-7-pin-socket-adaptor-550770400 Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/maypole-mp601-13-pin-to-7-pin-vehicle-to-trailer-adaptor-12v/48935 Halfords https://www.halfords.com/motoring/trailers-towing/trailer-accessories/ring-13-to-7-plug-in-adapter-197494.html etc etc

https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1038808/Electric-cars-real-world-range-how-much-costs-charge