xman

Well...I'm guessing here..could be a manufacturing fault in the casting, or something broke off first and when you stopped to fill up it fell somewhere where it jammed the camshaft. Alternatively, Water pump could have seized. On restart, a piston hits a valve (at least 2 exhaust valves) and smashes off the camshaft supports. I would expect cambelt damage or break in all these situations. Could also be something introduced into the cam area inadvertently, through the oil filler which finds its way under a lobe. Inspection of all debris and the camcover could give some clues. Some or maybe a lot of damage may have occurred consequently after an initial failure by repeatedly attempting to turn over the engine where the pistons were then hitting the valves. All very strange as I wouldn't have thought the camshaft could flex enough to break those pieces, maybe the camshaft is now bent? Easy enough to check by spinning it In any case, the head is written off, you need a complete new one. Could also be damage to pistons. New belt, waterpump etc

You have to be logged in and its located at the bottom of your post next to the Quote button. See below... As you are a new member with few posts you only have a limited time after posting to edit, can't remember how long, maybe 30 minutes, after that the option disappears and you cant edit the post further.

Ugly! Where were/are all the broken bits, the missing/broken off cam carrier/bearing bridge pieces? I'm surprised when the first one broke off that it didnt suffer massive damage shortly after - locked camshaft, stripped belt, valve/piston disaster. For that many to break off and still run is almost impossible to comprehend. It looks as if the the cam bearings and at least one of the lobes has suffered lack of lubrication, perhaps very wrong oil. If any bits were missing, nowhere to be found, it suggests the previous owner had sold it knowing full well of the problem. Alternatively, it could be associated with the cambelt change. Mistimed on that major damaged side (the camshaft sensor appears to be on the other camshaft on the still intact side). Valves kissing the piston crowns leading to constant vertical mechanical shocking of the camshaft leading to stress failure of the bridge pieces. Full head off stripdown will reveal.

Depends on the headlight type/variant fitted. Some can be adjusted others not. Consult the downloadable owners manual for your build date to find out.

I've researched this topic extensively and several methods are suggested. As far as I can make out, for Superb iii with conventional dash, the method is something like Sit in car, doors closed, bonnet too. Press and hold SET button under dash clocks, turn on ignition (don't start engine), still holding down SET, wait until a "Reset Oil service?" message appears in the dash, continue holding SET and eventually a "Reset Inspection service?" message appears, immediately release the SET button and then press it again and release to do the reset. Not sure if it acknowledges, but then turn off the ignition. Note that resetting this way will set the interval to fixed. Never done it yet on my Superb so no guarantees. Good luck.

What I would probably do..... First thing to check is both sides of the slave cylinder move freely in/out and one side is not stuck/seized. The shoes may not be sitting centrally. The shoes can be slid up/down on the slave cylinder/bottom pivot. Release the adjustment wedge and make sure the handbrake lever at the shoe end is in the fully released position. I suggest you measure carefully from the edge of the hub to top and bottom outer edge of the linings. Push the shoe set up or down until these measurements are equal. After replacing the drum and T30 screw, the first thing I do is to very firmly stand on the brake pedal several times, releasing quickly, do not apply handbrake. This should help centralise the shoes and set the aduster. Check you can spin the drum. If it still binds, release the adjuster by pushing ot up through one of the bolt holes using a screwdriver. Spin the drum and again firmly the brake pedel to reset the adjuster and position the shoes. Finally apply the handbrake firmly several times, keep an eye on the T bar at cable ends at the handbrake end. Check they are more or less equal cable lengths side to side when applied. If this doesnt work, it could be the slave cylinder is faulty, sticking or something, you assembled something wrong, or the shoe kit has a faulty dimensioned part on that side (unlikely).

Eurocarparts https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/ring-13-pin-plug-7-pin-socket-adaptor-550770400 Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/maypole-mp601-13-pin-to-7-pin-vehicle-to-trailer-adaptor-12v/48935 Halfords https://www.halfords.com/motoring/trailers-towing/trailer-accessories/ring-13-to-7-plug-in-adapter-197494.html etc etc

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-special-notice-01-19-towbar-electrical-socket-test-tools-diesel-smoke-meters-and-annual-training-and-assessments Cheap solution https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anpro-Waterproof-Trailer-Caravan-Electric/dp/B0713WVDDP

https://en.m.wiktionary.org/wiki/automatic#Adjective necessary, inevitable, prescribed by logic, law, etc. Spitting at another player means an automatic red card.

Highly unlikely to pass an MOT unless the tester is blind and bent. Automatic fail if cat is missing or modified. Specific section in MOT to check for presence and modifications of catalytic convertor as well as emission test which is unlikely to pass without the CAT (on CO and HC) You are obliged to declare all such modifications to your insurer who is highly unlikely to accept a decat as it is illegal plain and simple https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/modifying-your-vehicles-emissions/modifying-your-vehicles-emissions-the-legal-safety-and-health-implications

You can patch it up with some red lens repair tape. A roll costs around £3 from many places, Ebay, Amazon, ECP, Carparts4less Halfords etc etc. MOT compliant if you're wondering...... Phone your local TPS to get trade price for the genuine part https://tps.trade/centre-finder Try phoning Horton Skoda parts, who have always been fairly good at discounting genuine parts, they'll also tell you the correct part no for your particular reg. No. https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/collections/skoda-bulbs-lighting/ Phone your local ECP and they can get you a price on a pattern part. https://www.eurocarparts.com/store-locator Likely to be some lenses lying around in scrapyards attached to writeoffs but not sure if you could get them a lot cheaper as scrappies have become greedy in recent years. Start here, and make an enquiry with your exact requirement https://www.synetiq.co.uk/parts-breaking/details/boot-tailgate-lamp-skoda-superb-2015-on-2017-driver-inner-light---11069116/-/150961/

I beg to differ. IMO these are increasingly common problems having had both issues on our EA111 1.2 tsi engined cars. Many reports of both of these failures on Briskoda, try a search. The PCV valve on 1st gen 1.2tsi (-2011) is simply poor quality plastic too thin at the point it goes into the camcover. Redesigned for post 2011 engines looking at ours. The electric turbo actuator appears to be becoming a problem on Tsi engines. The one on the 2011 Octavia is still soldiering on at 145,000 miles, the later 2013 Fabia failed at almost exactly 100,000 miles/ just over 5 years and cost around £1500 to repair. This trend imo is in line with a general drift down in quality with some of Skodas suppliers in recent years. Thinking about factory fitted rear brake discs and pads which seem to be made out of cheese lately particular on flagship Superbs...... Note some versions of the EA111/EA211 turbos fitted can't have the actuator replaced as a seperate part so a £1500 turbo replacement is required instead of £250 for the actuator alone. And I don't expect any LED should fail, ever, no matter how old, unless its a cheap and nasty part or built into a poor quality PCB. They are designed not to be replaced easily if at all. Lets hope the LED headlights on modern Skodas last the distance, I dread to think the cost involved in fixing one of those.

Lots of pics in this Italian thread showing what the difference in the two kits are.

Afaik the newer kit can be fitted to earlier engines provided the top and bottom sprockets are changed as the chain link design is different, the sprockets are included in the kit. Here is a list of parts used when the timing chain was changed on my Nov 2011 build Octavia with cbzb 1.2tsi engine. (Skoda/dealer repeatedly refused warranty over previous complaints between early 2013-2015 claiming start up rattles were normal, then on the tensioner length which came in a couple of mm under the limit on the then TPI) Ignore the BEARING$ entry on the parts list as that was for a supposedly faulty wheel bearing failed by the MOT tester, in reality, when I checked it out, it seemed perfectly ok. Original Top cover was used as that TPI no longer applied.  Oil leaking from the badly resealed sump and/or covers were free of charge. P.S. I might add that the engine referred to above must be one of the ones before the block design change as its sump oil capacity is only 3.6 litres, a later 2013 fabia we had (1.2tsi cbza engine) had the revised design block with 3.9 litre sump oil capacity. Also it had the unprotected plug leads which failed and killed the coilpak as many others do but best Skoda would do is a parts contribution.

Contact these people with your VIN and they will tell you what is available for your specific vehicle, genuine Skoda, OE and aftermarket If actuator is available seperately it will be about €200, however a complete turbo is not that expensive for the genuine Skoda part at €418 or €571 https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-3/spare-parts/engine/turbocharger-intercooler/turbocharger-69.html Let them check your VIN to ensure correct parts. You will probably also need a new gasket set if you change the Turbo.

Good compression figures = valves seating ok First thing to try are new plugs (~£7 for a set of 3 bosch at ECP etc) and a healthy dose of fuel injector cleaner. Could be some uneven carbon build up on inlet valves if its a bit of an oil burner. Fuel system/injector cleaner might help along with a good old italian tune up. Might also have a weak coilpak, if you have a spare try a swap.

It might be worth getting a national daily involved. https://www.theguardian.com/money/2018/aug/11/engine-failure-left-vw-owners-picking-up-a-surprise-6700-bill

If your car is 4x4 then it might be a good idea to have the haldex oil changed and filter cleaned at 30k miles by your independent rather than the 40k (with no filter clean) Skoda dealer recommendation. See other threads with pics. Also consider an early DSG oil change if you decided to buy one of those as well.

Vrs230 so 2.0tsi AFAIK At 20k/2yr it gets an oil/filter change plus......a pollen filter..... Lots of inspection tick boxes (some not even applicable to your car). Belts (in this case just the aux belt drive belt) have automatic tensioners so nothing to check. 2.0tsi is a camchain engine. They will look extra hard at your pads and discs to see if they can convince to part with some extra cash. Plugs and airfilter are not done until 40k/4yrs. They will update your cars software or carry out "campaigns" if required by Skoda but they won't tell you as its Skoda's secret and the customer need not know. They will not update your maps or infotainment - thats a chargeable extra. They may or may not top up your washer fluid. They will try and convince that the aircon requires servicing on the ground that its "recommended by Skoda". Its not at all necessary, but check the extra price wanted before you are tempted to say yes as its a very expensive upsell.

Common and known quality issue with Sachs clutches on 2.0tdi iirc

I did try to warn people of what to expect here near the start of this thread.... This thread was never going to be about 280ps Superb sportlines in general, it was dedicated from the outset as somewhere for shy to blog about himself, his lifestyle and decisions, and how he is some kind of driving god, which includes occasionally breaking the law (by quite a wide margin - 138mph on a UK public road is just one example), posting here about it and boring people to death with his mpg figures. The videos from humble mechanic were excellent (as all his videos are). Interesting bit about the warranty voiding due to automatic modification detection.

Damn! Not good. Hope my 2018 SEL doesn't develop this problem, I'm ultra low mileage and this is meant to be my (last) car for the next 20 years, so won't be covered by warranty for many "common issues" It seemed to be a very common issue with previous Superb 2, looks as if Skoda hasn't learnt anything and still buy from the cheapest crappy supplier for certain items (eg rear brake discs). Or maybe thats the plan, get the money later. I had my reservations about ordering an SEL spec. Powered tailgate is something I definitely would have unticked if possible. Who the F really needs a powered tailgate? Then again, I ticked DCC so may regret that if it needs a new shocker in the future. Cars have become far too complex.

https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1038808/Electric-cars-real-world-range-how-much-costs-charge