Milentije

Hello everyone! My fiwe has a Fabia 2 1.2 TSI from 2014. VIN: TMBEM65J0F30XXXXX Car was bought some time ago (3-4 years ago) and from the beginning there were problems. A lot of different problems, and as time passed I was solving them as they showed up. Last time fuses started to blow up very often, in matter of minutes. Not the same second as they were changed but in a few minutes. After some investigation I stripped the interior with my friend and was amazed by what we saw was made by some idiot who owned the car before my wife. Long story short: The car had a colision from the front (before we bought it). They changed front bumer, front headlights and DRLs. Problem is that this cas had the RS bumper with LED DRLs and AFS halogen headlights (dynamic cornering) from the factory. Idiot who repaired the car after colision put standard bumper, standard headlights without dynamic cornering and DRL + Fog light combo in the bottom. Ofcourse it was not possible to do it without messing with the harnes from the BCM to headlights so they butchered the cables. I noticed that just after we stripped the whole interior of the car. I managed to sort the harnes issues with the help of "curent flow diagrams". From ETKA I found the original parts codes: Front bumper: 5J0 807 221 H Left headlight: 5J1 941 017 E Right headlight: 5J1 941 018 E Left LED DRL: 5J0 941 067 Right LED DRL: 5J0 941 068 DCL headlight are very rare and hard to find, so at the moment I have only the right headlamp. And I made a test with only right headlamp. After connecting it I got the error 02233 and 02234 in Modul 55 (Headlight Regulation). 02233/02234 description: Left/Right headlight power output stage, no signal/communication. Projector in right headlight was stacionary at all time (no moving left-right or up-down). Then I checked again in ETKA and found that Halogen AFS Controler exists, but it was not installed in our car from the factory. I was confused. How those headlamps were working from the factory without the Halogen AFS Controller... I bought one secondhand and connected to its connector and tried again. Now I have the same errors 02233 and 02234 but the right headlight is "alive", it moves a bit left-rigth after turning the key. I thought I made a mistake checking the ETKA so I visited Skoda dealer and asked them for the original parts codes and they confirmed everything they I already knew, and confirming that Halogen AFS Controler (5J0 907 357 B) is not part of our car acording to its VIN. My question is: Can somebody tell me are those headlights (5J1 941 017 E and 5J0 941 018 E) are supposed to work without Halogen AFS Controller (5J0 907 357 B)? Might it be the problem of BCM coding (I still didn' take a look in current coding of my BCM, maybe the same idiot made some changes there also)? Can somebody tell me what is the difference between 5J1 941 015 E and 5J1 941 017 E headlight (and also ... 016 E and ... 018 E)?

Reseting MCU didn't help. Because I have 2 sets of buttons, I desolrdered IR trasmissive sensor from second button set from left side, and soldered it in place of sensor from first set on right side. At the moment it works. We will see for how long. Interesting thing is that everybody have the same problem only on the right side...

I had the same problem on my Octavia from 2016. Bought a "new" set of buttons from a crashed car, replaced it and after 2 days got the same problem. Only right side scroll wheel. Insane. From time to time it works as it should, sometimes it just is missing some steps, and from today it is totally dead. Push button still works. Because I am an electronics engineer, I was thinking about the problem. I opened it and hooked it to the oscilloscope. Everything is working as it should. I am getting expected waveforms. Reflowed all components on that PCB just in case, still getting expected waveforms. Returned it to the car, it worked for some time, and then again, problems started. Because those transmissive sensors (LINK to datasheet) are the same for left and right scroll wheel, and we have problems only on the right side, I doubt that the problem is in the sensor itself. Chances that only the sensors mounted on the right side are defective are close to 0%. My guess is that right side scroll is connected to MCU (LINK to datasheet) in different way compared to the left side scroll. Left side scroll seams to be connected to interrupt inputs, but right side scroll seams to be connected to MCU inputs that do not have interrupt capability. So, it means that right side scroll has to be checked by polling (not in an interrupt service routine), which leads me to conclusion that the firmware in MCU has some kind of bug and it skips part of the code that is used to poll the right side scroll. I checked the connections on PCBs in hurry, so I might be wrong, but what I saw in a few minutes right side scroll is connected to input pins without interrupt capability. There are two ways to eliminate the problem and get on the right way of solving this issue. 1. Replace transmissive sensor on the right side with one from the left side and see what will happen. 2. Disconnect the battery for few minutes to force the MCU in steering wheel to reset and then check what is going on. Hmmm. Irritating problem. Will come back with results.

1. Suck out all the remaining R1234YF. 2. Fill up the system with R134A using connector converter. I can read that many people are doing this. But, I can not see a lot of feedback after some time. If you compare those two gasses, they are almost the same performance wise. Difference is in "environmental impact" and cost. Of course it will be stupidly expensive for no reason when DuPont has its hand in it.

BTW What are your thoughts on moving to R134A? Draining (vacuuming) R1234YF and then filling the system with R134A? 1234 is insanely expensive, but it is not the worst part of it. It is so hard to find the service that can fill your system with R1234YF. For example, Skoda dealer doesn't have the filling machine, it was broken when I needed refilling. They sent me to VW dealer, but I had to wait more then 10 days there for my time slot in service. At the end, I did it at Mazda dealer service same day.

AC system was filled up today with 135g of R1234YF. Now, it is almost snowing inside.

Compressor is OK, as well as refrigerant. Visited VW service today. When I told them what I have already checked they looked at me like I am coming from Mars. Booked time slot in service for next week. I am really curious to see what is going on, but I am also prepared to here some bull**** from guys from service. Will see.

I bought the car year ago. It is 4 and half years old now. I think nobody ever changed it. I have to check if I can read compressor details via OBDEleven and will come back with data. But, it is strange that I have problem only with one zone, and always the same one. I can't see how it can be due to refrigerant. Anyway, will check compressor data.

Yes, it is the same. Only thing that makes difference is how fast the blower is blowing. If I set it manually to maximum than it is blowing warmer air to the co-driver zone. If I set it to blow slower (1 or 2 or 3 dots) than it blows cooler air, but still it is warmer than on the left zone.

Octavia 3 estate 2016 form signature. AC is automatic, dual zone. When temperature is set, for example, at 22°C, with outside temperature of 34°C and AUTO mode, driver side (left) is cooled as expected, but co-drivers side (right) is getting warmed. AC is set like follows: Temp: 22°C, sync Mode: AUTO Left side is cooled, right side gets hot air. 1. Checked for errors via OBDEleven and found B109515 (Position sensor for right temperature flap motor), intermittent. So I did calibration. Nothing changed. 2. Disassembled right side glove box and glove box frame, found the motor, took it out. During opening I didn't find anything strange, but while opening the potentiometer plastic case I broke it. So, this morning I bought replacement motor (5Q0 907 511 K) from wracked car. Put it in, no codes, but I still get hot air on right side. 3. Did a bit more detailed inspection using OBDEleven. Found out that I am not dreaming, right vent temperature sensor is showing 10-15°C more that the left one. To exclude the problem with those temperature sensors I switched their places (left to right, right to left). Nothing changed. 10-15°C hotter air on the right side. 4. I thought maybe the flap that is mixing air temperature for the right zone is mechanically broken. Disconnected motor, tried to move flap by hand and it moves like it should. Then, to be 100% sure, I got endoscopic camera and pushed it through one of the vents down the pipe and found the flap. While I am moving the lever by hand, flap is tracking my movements. It gores from end to end, without the problem. So, it is not mechanically broken or stuck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqd4tCBjI-E 5. When I manually slow down the blower speed to 2 dots/bars, temperature difference between 2 zones get lower, but still, right one is blowing at least 5°C warmer air. What could be the problem? Any ideas?

Something is wrong. It should do the "dance" every time to check if all motors are working correctly. Do you have any warning on dashboard?

Lane Assistant helps you stay in a current lane. For that your car needs camera on front windshield. Lane Change Assistance helps you change the lane. For that your car needs additional distance sensors (those for blind spots).

Anybody? Where can I find datasheets for flywheels? I want to compare 03L105266CC and 03L105266DJ.

Do you have a camera behind the rear view mirror? If you have it then you also have lane assistance. That button is dedicated for controlling the LA (ON/OFF). When you press it you will see new picture on maxidot display (not infotainment display). You have to (de)activate LA by pressing the scroll wheel on right side of the steering wheel. When it is activated you will see orange sign on dash board. It will become green if you are driving faster than 60 km/h and camera can see stripes on both sides of the car.