myjalopy

Hi, I've not posted for a while, the Felicia hasn't really given any trouble except the ignition barrel needing replacing. However, since coming back from 2 weeks holiday a few weeks ago, I noticed that at 3k rpm the battery light glows and goes out again if I go below those revs. The connections seem OK at the alternator and battery, the belt seems OK too. There is no screeching from the belt. Any ideas what else I could look for? cheers

both

Maybe, I've contacted the mods anyway. Looks like it's just me that's affected then. :'(

No, not yet. Wanted to see if it was isolated to me, as it appears. Interestingly, I tried to look at the 'suspected dodgy email senders' posts and topics and note that the dodgy email came from a member that only signed up yesterday yet for some reason his topic and post history shows no results? :wonder:

Is it just me or is anyone else experiencing problems with this website. Suddenly I keep getting broken link error messages for example when I try to log on or look at a particular section of the forum. If I click back and forward again it often works or if I click on the redirected link on the error message it works. It is affecting both my computers. Not sure if it started before but I had a weird email from Briskoda the other day, a notification of a topic that I was watching regarding whether 'sport was good for your health'. It was poorly spelt throughout, as if it was auto translated from Chinese or something. It wasn't anything that I was watching and I couldn't find the topic on the forum. :S

Mine protested to the point of me pushing it around a carpark to get it bump started. That's when I thought it was time to fix it. :yes:

Pleased to help Ian. This sort of DIY job might be obvious to a lot of people but equally baffling to many more. Initially I took the end off of the barrel, big mistake as the contact plates and springs that were inside flew everywhere I used a cheap watchmakers screwdriver but a small electrical screwdriver would do. The screws are small and VERY fiddly to rethread so be careful you don't lose them.

REPLACING IGNITION SWITCH Recently had the problem of the car not starting unless I wiggled the key about or bump started it. Turned out to be a failed ignition switch. It is possible to bypass this problem with a seperate push button start, but for £10 it can be fixed properly. No need for pictures, it is all quite easy. Total time to do - 90 minutes. In the dark with only a small light. 1) Remove the bottom from the steering column shroud. This should be held by 1 x screw and will slide backwards and off once this screw is removed. 2) Prise out the plastic disc around the ignition barrel on the dash. 3) Disconnect any wires that may be pulled during the moving of the steering column. Usually 2 x brown wires, stalk block and the airbag wire. (The airbag wire has a large connector near the back of the steering wheel and is covered by a plastic lattice sleeve. If you can get away without disconnecting the airbag wire, don't do it. It will put the airbag into fault mode and will need to be cleared using specialist VAG equipment.) 4) Now there are 4 x bolts that need to be removed in order to move the steering column. 2 are located by the wheel and 2 further down the column. Undo the furthest 2 first and recover the washers and plastic spacer. Make sure you know which way round they are assembled. There will be a1 x bolt, 1 x spring washer, 1 x large washer, 1 x machined metal insert and 1 x plastic spacer on each side of the column. 5) Then loosen the upper 2 bolts. Make sure the column is supported when you remove them, again remembering how they were assembled if they come apart. There will be 1 x bolt, 1x spring washer, 1 x washer, 1 x rubber bush on each side of the column. 6) Now you will be able to drop the column away from it's position. Remove the upper shroud. You will need to manipulate the column a bit in order to get the ignition barrel to slide out from behind the dash. 7) The ignition switch is located on the back of the barrel assembly. In order to remove it you only have to remove 2 x very small grub screws. These are located on either side of the switch assembly at 180 degrees to eachother. They can be fiddly and easy to lose, so go careful. 8) Now you can simply pull the switch out from the barrel, with the wires in place to aid reconnecting them to the new switch. 9) Swap the wires over from the old switch to the new. Slide the new switch back into the barrel, making sure that the 2 x small holes in the barrel casing line up with the 2 x small holes in the switch casing. If this is correctly done, the key slot in the switch casing will line up with the keyway of the barrel casing and you will then be able to secure the switch with the 2 x grub screws. 10) Refitting is, as they say, the reverse of removal, but remember to fit the upper shroud before refitting the column. It may be a four handed affair when replacing the column bolts, remember to put the plastic spacers for the 2 x lower bolts between the lugs on the column and the bodywork. Connect all wire/stalks. Refit the bottom shroud, sliding it forward from the footwell, making sure the rubber stalk surrounds are properly loctated in the shroud slots and secure with the 1 x scew.

Recently had the problem of the car not starting unless I wiggled the key about or bump started it. Turned out to be a failed ignition switch. It is possible to bypass this problem with a seperate push button start, but for £10 it can be fixed properly. No need for pictures, it is all quite easy. Total time to do - 90 minutes. In the dark with only a small light. 1) Remove the bottom from the steering column shroud. This should be held by 1 x screw and will slide backwards and off once this screw is removed. 2) Prise out the plastic disc around the ignition barrel on the dash. 3) Disconnect any wires that may be pulled during the moving of the steering column. Usually 2 x brown wires, stalk block and the airbag wire. (The airbag wire has a large connector near the back of the steering wheel and is covered by a plastic lattice sleeve. If you can get away without disconnecting the airbag wire, don't do it. It will put the airbag into fault mode and will need to be cleared using specialist VAG equipment.) 4) Now there are 4 x bolts that need to be removed in order to move the steering column. 2 are located by the wheel and 2 further down the column. Undo the furthest 2 first and recover the washers and plastic spacer. Make sure you know which way round they are assembled. There will be a1 x bolt, 1 x spring washer, 1 x large washer, 1 x machined metal insert and 1 x plastic spacer on each side of the column. 5) Then loosen the upper 2 bolts. Make sure the column is supported when you remove them, again remembering how they were assembled if they come apart. There will be 1 x bolt, 1x spring washer, 1 x washer, 1 x rubber bush on each side of the column. 6) Now you will be able to drop the column away from it's position. Remove the upper shroud. You will need to manipulate the column a bit in order to get the ignition barrel to slide out from behind the dash. 7) The ignition switch is located on the back of the barrel assembly. In order to remove it you only have to remove 2 x very small grub screws. These are located on either side of the switch assembly at 180 degrees to eachother. They can be fiddly and easy to lose, so go careful. 8) Now you can simply pull the switch out from the barrel, with the wires in place to aid reconnecting them to the new switch. 9) Swap the wires over from the old switch to the new. Slide the new switch back into the barrel, making sure that the 2 x small holes in the barrel casing line up with the 2 x small holes in the switch casing. If this is correctly done, the key slot in the switch casing will line up with the keyway of the barrel casing and you will then be able to secure the switch with the 2 x grub screws. 10) Refitting is, as they say, the reverse of removal, but remember to fit the upper shroud before refitting the column. It may be a four handed affair when replacing the column bolts, remember to put the plastic spacers for the 2 x lower bolts between the lugs on the column and the bodywork. Connect all wire/stalks. Refit the bottom shroud, sliding it forward from the footwell, making sure the rubber stalk surrounds are properly loctated in the shroud slots and secure with the 1 x scew.

OK, I'll try to put something together and post it.

Errr, well I took a couple of the actual switch wiring so I knew how to rewire it, but that's about it. Different models seem to have differently wired switches though. :S If anybody is interested, it's mostly in the Haynes manual and is covered elsewhere in this forum. I am happy to do a guide if required though. :yes:

Got a new switch and fitted it tonight. Once you have the iginition barrel accessed, it's just a matter of 2 grub screws and swapping the wires from the old to the new. Car starts fine now. It looks like the old switch had some slight arcing across the contacts gap. I read that they could,be bent back to shape, but a new switch is £10, so easier to replace it.

Inadvertantly took mine apart the other day too ! I took the end off and as you say, the contact plates and springs flew everywhere. I put it back together correctly as it happens as all still works, or not as is the case, as befpre. I noticed a small arced area too, but have decided to get another switch. Just waiting for it to turn up, been 4 days now. :wonder:

I did wonder, afterall what is the point of a light that means nothing? My excuse is that a long time ago I was told by a Seat garage that my Ibiza airbag would still operate even though the light was on, it was just a light to let me know there had been a problem. It was like it when I bought it, but he took it into the workshop and 2 minutes later came back and said he'd turned it off for me. Will get that sorted tomorrow, as long as the switch turns up from Jorily.

Hi torsen. Um, were talking about dealing with airbag lights. Regulators were only mentioned in passing by nickfel.

Yep, that's been suggested to me by friends. That and sticking some bluetack over it. Helpful eh? Then again, I suppose it is only a light, it doesn't actually mean the airbag is not working....does it? :wonder:

Cheers Tom, yes it was the slip ring wire. Thought it would pull too tight as i was taking the column down, but probably would have been OK.

Thanks chaps, I think there is a VAG mechanic near me so will give him a ring. what a pain, I didn't really need to disconnect it, just thought I would in case the wire got pulled too tight.

After disconnecting the wire when I dropped the steering column, the airbag lights stays on. I have tried disconnecting the battery, but no luck. Any ideas on how to get the light to go off?

Looks like the switch is duff. I managed to get the column down and found that wiggling the switch/wires while holding the key at start position worked. Then for some reason i decided to prise open the 3 clips that hold the switch in, or so I thought. The contact assembly sprung out all over the footwell. Yes, now I know that they don't hold the switch in place. There are 2 grub screws that do that. Great fun finding the springs and putting it all back together again, I am guessing it's correctly reassembled, as I am back to square one- wiggling the switch on the end of the barrel to get it started. Will be ordering a new switch tonight, as I need the car by Wednesday morning. Now the airbag light stays on, because i disconnected a wire when i was moving the steering column. I have tried disconnecting the battery, but no luck. How do I get the light to go off?

Hi andy, I might be looking at doing this to sort out my Felicia. Did you use any relays at all or just a couple of wires and a button? Which 2 terminals have you connected? Not easy to see on the pic.

I had a look at the start button option, but can't easily see how it is wired, in the pictures in that thread. The yellowwire to brownwire connection is easy to see, but where does the other end of the brown button wiring go?

All good advice chaps, thanks. Looks like a busy w/e for me then.

Even wiggling doesn't work sometimes since yesterday, have to bump it. I was looking in the wrong place in my manual, as I was looking on how to get to the barrel only.

Got worse today. Stuck on a petrol forecourt trying to bump start the bloody thing as it will not start at all now just by turning the key. Got home and found that if I wiggle the key about as I turn it it usually works. So, has to be a barrel/switch problem I suppose, but will have to put up with it for now until the w/e. Tom what's an x contact relay?