REDFABVRS

I would agree the Fabia can feel a little cramped, but thats with any small car. The boot is very reasonable I can get a pram in along with shopping ontop of it. 3 kids in the back would seat comfortably where no babyseats/boosters are used, but if you have a baby theres only space for one person in the back comfortably. The let down are the seats because of the colour, but if your not bothered about cleaning then you have some scrubbing to do. Its probably one of the best small cars on the market considering space, fuel consumption, insurance and safe overtaking with the torque available is comparble to cars with the bigger price tags.

Looking fresh nice work

Learn something new everyday, I will learn to back of in the wet I was under the impression because I have ASR I have better traction because it feels well planted in the wet. Looks like the ASR System just saves your front tyres from wearing out

The whistle noise would be the turbo it can be heard more when the car is under a heavy load, full boot or 5 heads in the car. I eventually realised I had a boost leak the top pipe of the intercooler was loose when going into boost it would just whistle, but not rev as hard when I first bought it, try connecting all the pipes up securley or do the cable tie trick it should stop any obvious boost leak, or you may have an intercooler pipe thats ripped which would then need replacing. If its a police siren kind of noise as some have previously reported on here its the turbo on its way out, usually the turbo fins hitting the turbo housing when spining because the shaft is about to break or its lost its balance = new turbo

In standard form would you say the Fabia VRS is tailhappy? I was hoping it wouldnt be with ASR Fitted.. Past experience Civic VTI would snapoff oversteer for fun and it can be scary when you least expect it even on good tyres..

With ASR turned off the car does feel much quicker, but can certainly feel more body lean through the bends.. Would ASR stop the back end from stepping out in the wet??

According to the Autotrader spec the Fabia VRS comes with EDL SKODA Glossary ASR- Anti Slip Regulation traction control ensures the vehicles stability when pulling away or accelertaing. If the engine power or torque being transmitted to the drive wheels is too great, for exapmle, on a slippery road surface, engine torque is automatically reduced until optimum road-holding returns, thus preventing wheel spin. A light indicates whether the ASR system is on. It can be manually switched off. MSR- The engine torque control system recognises when the wheels are subject to too much slippage and regulates the power supply by intervening in the engine management system. This prevents wheel spin when, for example, changing down on a smooth or wet road surface. MSR is a constituent part of the ASR system. EDL - Electronic Differentail Lock continually compares the rpm of the drive wheels, and if it identifies a difference between them which could lead to an individual wheel spinning, for example, if the two wheels are on different types of surface or accelerating on wet leaves, the system brakes the wheel affected until uniform rpm of all drive wheels is restored. I have an ASR Button on the dash, I can feel ASR & MSR system working in the wet weather but can anybody confirm if the 2004 vrs comes with EDL, if so would it work in a similar way to an LSD Gearbox around bends as an LSD gearbox reduces understeer. Thanks in advance!

Out of interest what is the mileage? and is it remapped.. Garretts are suppose to be the stronger turbo units, have previously read the bolt on is simple and the pipework is usually the same, the turbo may need clocking/rotating Maybe somebody could explain in more detail im not sure why its done..

Look into Octavia/Superb alloys?

Out of interest has anybody wired up an additonal light for the interior? The front has a map light it does the job for the front, but im after wiring up a light for the rear because it can be difficult to see in the dark when strapping up a baby in the seat, and it can be useful. Before anybody says im not after a silly neon kit for the interior just a clear light for the rear to be installed in the centre or on the rear pillar of the car, similar to what the prestige cars have BMW/AUDIS etc, im hoping to give it the genuine look. If anybody has done this please shed some light?? Thanks in advance!

Get a Cupra R Lip it should hide the scratches under the car, if the bumper is scratched visibly it maybe cheaper just to get a respray. IMO Nobody looks under the car so its pointless replacing if thats the only scratched bit.

Maybe I was being a little paranoid the car has gone threw the MOT Today with no advisories Im at peace for another year The handbrake cable may be stretched if its longer one side than the other but its holding fine so im told from the garage?

I was the first one to drive it after it had the brakes changed I pumped the pedal a number of times before driving away, but I dont feel like its adjusting if its self adjusting. It does work on both sides but not how I would expect it to after new pads it should be more firm to apply, I use the brakes quite alot done 300 miles in the last week surely that would be enough to adjust? or should I give it a week then adjust it??

Recently about a week ago had the rear brake disc and pads fitted for the MOT the garage advised the rear calipers would adjust themself so they dont need to adjust the hanbrake. Its been a week the car holds on a hill etc but on a high travel, because its got its MOT due next month and it creaks on the left side if I test it by putting it in first gear and set off gently the right side seems okay but the left creaks, I dont want it to fail its MOT because of it. I know the hanbrake can be adjusted by removing the cover but is it as simple as tightening the nut, and does the handbrake need to be up or down when adjusting is there anything in particular to do when adjusting handbrake. I had a quick look right side of the cable seems to be higher than the left is there anyway of bringing them back to equal?? Thanks in advance!

Every 6 months - Fully synthetic oil can only be good for the engine & turbo I have read 10K on Fully synthetic oil intervals is a good service interval

Could be CV Joint, if the rubber is ripped it wll have let the grease out, it can be dangerous if the CV Joint runs dry as it can seize Turn the wheel either side and see if the rubber boot is ripped or letting grease out..

Yes should be covered, worth enquring about. It has no reason to be loose, mine never trigged an engine light so they will say there is nothing wrong as its driveable but just with that slight bit of power loss as the boost builds, im assumig you dont have the check engine light either. Worth getting a 2nd opinion of the AA/RAC man for confirmation and if it is the pipe thats causing the whistle take the call out reciept with you to the trader you bought it of and they have no argument but to replace it.

I had exactly the same problem a few months back, I was suspecting a bust turbo. After a good inspection of the boost pipes it appeared the pipes do have some form of movement leaving a gap allowing a boost leak thats what causes teh whistle. I pushed the pipes back on after a short drive the same would happen. Give or take some soot or oil leak but as long as it does not look like somebody has poured a litre of engine oil its normal. I sorted this problem by using the cable tie trick, the top of the intercooler pipe can be tricky due to access, use a cable tie around the fuel filter housing and the boost pipe tricky but it has done the job since no more boost leaks, to avoid any pipes popping off do the cable tie trick on all of the pipes.

Agressive remap? could cause that because of high rpm of the wheel it could not maintain balance causing it to bounce hence causing the squeeling and snapping.. Im not no expert a friend of mine had the same issue as yours on a Bora 130 TDI garage put it down to the agressive map the turbo couldnt handle it, he had to have the remap removed or tuned down to be on the safe side.. Whats the mileage?? Thanks

Just for info as mine is on 67k now and I dont know when it will let go.. What is the mileage? remapped? Did you follow the warm up and cool down period? Thanks

It would be one of the ABS Sensors but vagcom or a diagnostics should confirm this... Do the obvious checks: Check brake fuid top up if necessary Brake pads run down maybe time to replace the pads and discs if they are worn out not sure if the vrs has brake pad sensors Tyre pressures low? could be causing a fault with traction control Keep us posted.. Thanks

That is normal.. maybe somebody could explain in more detail From a cold start a car idles higher its part of the warm up period, the older cars would have a chok that old folk would pull to give more fuel and air to the engine and once its warmed up they would push the chok back in, same principal just that the ECU is doing it for you. You shouldnt leave a car idling from a cold start for any longer than necessary because the warm up period is critical start driving ASAP to get the oil circulating in the engine and it will warm up itself obviously be gentle on the pedal until its reached its normal operating temp.. Dont know if its true or not but you cause more wear on the engine during start up because the internals are under stress low oil pressure causes friction in return causing more engine wear, the oil needs to circulate the only way it will circualte is if its driven as its warmed up the oil gets thiner. Hope im making sense

I understand Tyres have a big influence on the road in Snow, but im sure although we should invest in winter tyres not many of us do because the snow we have for a few days does not compensate for the few days of snow we have here in the UK, in terms of a safety aspect its worth it 100% but not many heads dont think that way as it only lasts a few days.. I agree obviously driving speeds and road conditions are all considered.. Is the Fabia simple to getting rolling from a stand still im guessing the Gas pedal has to be untouched because the torque wouldnt help in snow?

I had Toyo Proxes 4 on the Yaris T Sport 195/50/15 - Didnt have no problems but a spade in the boot helped when it was a few cm in the morning Will the Fabias wider tyres help in the snow or cause a problem because theyr a wide tyre dont know if its true or not narrow tyres are supposedly better Also does the traction control in a benefit in snow or is it pointless? Thanks

Out of interest what is the Fabia VRS like to drive in snow? I know its a random question and I dont need to worry just yet, but Im thinking of taking my holidays at work & was thinking ahead if I should be wise and reserve a week or a few days of for bad weather such as snow in the Winter. My work commute is 15 miles one way, using Motorway and some main roads. Im aware on a hill FWD would struggle, and winter tyres would be the obvious selection of tyres. I bought the car in Feb so luckily I missed the snow, had no problems with my previous car as it was NA, never driven a turbo in snow so thats why I ask. My car is standard I guess remapped would struggle because of the increase of torque I dont intend to remap anytime soon. Did any of you abandon the Fabia because it wouldnt move, or are turbo diesels in general fine in snow?? No harm in asking I guess Thanks in advance for the replys