Williamvb

Have you tried these chaps, https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk they do the rear drum back plates (splash panel) for the VRS. Will

I used Miller EE performance MTF 75w90, have been ruinning it for 7k miles, no problems. the gear box drain plug is a special, not quite sure what it is called but it's a 12 star (could be more, I didn't count them..) with a hollow centre, nothing else will fit.

Right, to conclude my journey with the missing ABS light, I checked the ABS pump, all seemed well, checked the wiring, again, all is well, that only left me with one option, the light in the cluster is faulty, sent the cluster off to a repair shop, Autotronics, got it back a few days later, fitted it and hey presto the ABS light comes on and goes off after a couple of seconds, result. Here are the error codes I got on the VCDS before the repair: Address 01 Engine 18061- please check DTC memory of ABS controller 18057- Power train data bus, missing message Address 03 ABS Brakes no fault found. Address 09 Cent. Elect. 01316- ABS control module, no communications 01598- drive battery voltage, signal too low Address 17 Instruments 01316- ABS control module, no communications Address 19 CAN gateway 01316- ABS control module, no communications It does appear that the lack of an indicator light in the cluster can cause these errors as, after clearing them, none returned Oh and it passes the MOT. Wohoo did a couple of hundred miles yesterday and no issues.

Further investigation, removed ABS pump from the car, someone has had the cover off the electronics and pump part previously, seems to measure through OK. The next thing I am thinking if the ABS pump assembly was changed it will have to be coded to the vehicle, can all my trouble stem from the unit not being recognised by the ECU and that can cause the lack of ABS light and functioning ABS system. The unit is a Bosch 6Q097379H, reading in previous posts that unit should be compatible with the ECU of an 04 VRS. Will

Right, investigated further, cleaned all fuses and the metal strip, no change, removed both fuses, an error, ID301 no indication on display, ABS return flow pump V39. 5A fuse back in, No fault found Strip fuse out, 5A in, no fault found strip fuse in, 5A in, NFF The value of the ABS flow return pump is 0 with any combination of fuses removed Solenoid Valve relay value is 1 with any combination of fuse options. I have just come accross a site that mentioned that some errors only show up above 20 kph, something new to try for tomorrow.. Is there an easy way to disconnect the ABS connector, I just want to check the state of the individual wires before moving on, struggeling for access wven with the air filter housing removed. It looks like there is a fault somewhere between the flow return pump and the dash board light but do correct me if I am wrong.

No to both, I will have a go tomorrow, Thanks for the help

I did take the cluster apart but all seems to be fine there, no dodgy bits of black tape or damaged light bulbs, I'll investigate further tomorrow.

Is it possible to illuminate all the warning lights in the dashboard to check they are all working, reason being my ABS light does not come on but I can see the wheel sensors and when running a check you can hear the ABS pump clicking and when driving it will activate if 2 wheels are on gravel. If I remove fuse 25 there is no warning light, next is to see if removing the main fuses will make a difference, I just want to make sure the ABS light has not been mapped out or something such like as my MOT station would like to see the ABS warning light come on (and go off). Will

Success, I managed to get the offending bolt out with the home made bodge, a long-ish easy-out filed to size, 5.5mm long socket glued on with Araldite and a ratchet, usinng the EGR and the ratchet together provided the force required to get it out, wohoo. If anyone ever needs to borrow the tool let me know, it will go into my box of useful things and is freely available to memebers. Now for finding a replacement bolt.. Alasdair, thanks for the suggestion, wasn't needed in the end. as an aside, can I change the header to add (solved)?

As the header says, I am in the process of removing the EGR to give it a clean, the 2 accessible bolts have come out easily, the third, the inaccessible has a stripped head, probably why the EGR has not been touched in the lifetime of the car. I have removed as many bits and bobs as I can think of (EGR pipe, exhaust mounting etc.)and am now resorting to trying an easy-out with a socket knocked onto it to try and force the bolt out, so far with limited success. I assume the prescribed way is "remove engine as per chapter 4" and have a go then, something I am reluctant to do for obvious reasons. You may say, just leave the EGR in situ and leave it be, the problem is that at some point something will happen at an inconvenient time and the I will still have to get the blessed thing out, and it would annoy me leaving it as is. Is there anyone who can suggest a new approach to remove the stubborn bolt, the EGR moves a bit sideways so I might be able to utilise that to increase the rotational force once I get the easy-out to bite properly. Will

As the header says, nothing to report, everything works fine after giving the old yellow peril it's full service (oil, all filters, brake fluid, coolant), and cambelt change directly after buying it in May. In December I will be having a look at various bits, the drivers door sensor, clean the EGR, I know it can be removed / deleted but I am boring and just want to have a look at it, it might get the boot sometime in the future but for the moment I will be looking to keep it. It is not like my Rangy where the EGR disintegrates and destroy the turbos and such like, on that the EGR has been removed an deleted. It is simply a joy to drive around in and keep it going for the forseeable future.

Hi Pete, the thing was that the light was not on, ever, I checked the fuses, they are fine, I did then run my diagnostic kit and it came up with an historic error, right rear sensor, I cleared the error and the warning light comes on and goes out after a couple of seconds, just as it is supposed to. thanks for your help, case closed. Will

I have just about finished the servicing and rust protecting the yellow peril (04 VRS) after buying it last month but I noticed the ABS light on the dash doesn't come on when I start the car. I am fairly sure that the waring light should come on for a few seconds and then (hopefully) go out.I did notice on the last MOT that it failed on the ABs light illuminated, on the re-test it passed, could it be the light bulb has been removed, if so how do I get it back into working order, even if the light is continuously on, I 'll have a go at sorting that. Thanks, Will

It has been a fair few years since we last owned a Skoda, always Fabia's, usually company cars. We have finally found a primrose yellow Fabia VRS in unmolested condition, not one singe "upgrade", how rare is that.. Having owned a brand new Primrose VRs in 2004 it is really nice to be transported back in time driving a 2004 Fabia VRS, 132K miles, engine good as gold, forgotten just how good that 6 speed gearbox is. After a smooth and fun ride home it will now be a case to go through the service points, change all fluids, cam belt change and have a go at rectifying some corrosion, nothing too dramatic but I might as well get it done right. Since my past membership I have obtained a garage with a 4 post lift and some more knowledge about things mechanical, let the fun begin.. Will