Jono

I found a source of the workshop manual that pretty much answered this here: https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-workshop-service-maintenance-repair-manuals-downloads-inc-vrs-free

Thanks Guys. As mentioned, I know the OEM spec but we know manufacturers usually approve different size wheel options etc. other than what the vehicle left the factory with, so OEM fitment is a guide, but not necessary the one truth. Since winters are usually lower rated (H-ish) and perfectly acceptable the argument that it's verboten to drop below the vehicle max speed doesn't hold much water for me. Using my personal risk vs benefit compass, I'm quite happy with tyres rated for a long run at 130mph for a vehicle that rarely passes 80mph *providing* the fitment is supported by the manufacturer. I've confirmed that my Insurers are happy with winter tyres, so that crosses that bridge for me. My point really is that we can speculate based on what we think we know and internet myth/rumour etc. but what I'm trying to find somewhere is the definitive answer.

Hi all. I'm wondering where on earth we might be able to find definitive information on tyre fitments, load, speed ratings etc. I know the OEM tyre fitment and lots of tyre-seller websites give a fitment, but whilst the owners manual specifies WHEEL fitments and axle weights etc, it doesn't state tyre load and speed ratings. I'm disappointed this doesn't seem to be in the manual! I'm aware that sticking with OEM values is by definition OK, I just want to get to the actual truth of what Skoda specify as minimum spec. In case anyone happens to know, I'm exploring used tyre options for a Scout on 225/50/17's. EDIT - Is I want to read it as such, you could take the manual to support the use of speed rating S+ as that's the minimum listed and there is no discussion of it varying by model. Likewise, the load ratings listed are 88 upwards and you can check your axle loading doesn't exceed the value, but it is no more specific than that. Page 208 ish, here: https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Octavia_5E/11-2015/Manual/Octavia/A7_Octavia_OwnersManual.pdf

Yeah, I'm sure that would do it, but be nice to avoid having to take a trip to a dealer if the info is available elsewhere.

Yeah, all sound advice, thanks. I guess it all hinges on how far through their life the discs are so I should get the wheels off and get them measured. Is there a good, trustworthy, source for max thicknesses in the public domain? Looking at parts websites the min thickness seems to vary.

I've seen a lot of conflicting info and opinions on this. Pads have done 55k/5yr miles from new on an Octy Scout, not much of which as been 2020. There is no noise, significant scoring etc, but there is some pitting on the discs noted by indy garage on MOT advisory. They suggest pads and discs all around, but obviously we have conflicting motivations here, and I know how often not-strictly-necessary stuff gets done. In short, do I go pads-only acknowledging that there is a risk they have a reduced life? or is that half-jobbing a waste of time and get it all done at the same time? I don't have costings yet, I'm guessing pads+fitting are prob half the cost of pads+discs. I see it is common for people to expect 2 sets of pads before changing discs, is this a pretty safe rule of thumb? or is it pretty common to have to change discs after only a single pad? In the absence of problematic scoring etc. is it worth just checking the disc thickness myself and if I'm less than, say. two-third of the way through the wear, go for pads only? I've been bitten by aftermarket discs on my Mk1 Octy that died in 40% of the time of originals. What are people's thoughts on OEM vs various brands? Assume I'm keeping the car for 5+ years, so playing the long game. Cheers for your advice!

Hi All, Help me out here - and apologies - I know this might have been answered in parts across other posts over the years - I'm drowning in work (NHS) and drowning in schoolwork and I'd really love it if someone that has already solved this can spell it out for me. So, Octy 3 - Scout - 5 years old. Battery appears to be coming t the end of it's useful life and needs a trickle charge if I'm not using the car for any length of time, I want to replace the battery - it has an AGM from new (I want to keep as AGM since I plan to keep the car 5+ years) and I'm happy to accept suggestions. I can physically swap the battery myself, but I'm worried about a) Problems that may occur whilst there is no power at all to the car and b) Coding the new battery. Can anyone suggest how best to go about it? Is coding really that necessary if you were to replace the battery with one as good or better? Indie battery places I have asked said they can't recode the battery for me. :( I know that recoding is claimed to be necessary, lots of people say so, but is that all ultimately based on the same source that has a huge vested interest in keeping work funneled to it's dealer network? I'm in Nottingham if that helps. Whilst I'm here, anyone local know a good independent locally. Dave at DSB Autocare in Nottingham, shutting up shop 5 years ago broke my heart.

Hi Guys, My MY16 Scout is about 4.5 years old and I think the battery may be about due replacement. It’s resting charge under minor load is about 12.2v soon after it’s been topped up with a smart-oxford-motorbike trickle charger via the boot 12v socket. The dealers want the best part of £200 for EFB and £300 for AGM battery, installation and coding, which feels bonkers. I’m not in a massive hurry, but am planning ahead. Can anyone suggest a battery place in or near Nottingham that might be able to re-code the car for a new battery, or is there anyone local who is experienced with VCDS (or OBDEleven???) that might be able to do it for a sensible payment? I’m tempted to buy this : https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/ It looks like coding it myself via OBDeleven is in the region of £50+ and the cost of buying VCDS is simply out of scope for this. Having said that, I’m not sure if OBDeleven might be a good buy for doing other stuff too and I’d welcome your thoughts. My alternative is to replace like-for-like for the same spec EFB battery as fitted and call-bull**** on the idea that an identical battery needs re-coding… Cheers!