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RoadWarrior

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    Kent, UK

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  1. So... not to be defeated, I've decided to keep the fight going and got the local engineer in! Damage / rot was worse than first thought: Saying that he's done an excellent job of welding-in new steel (no donor parts, all from scratch) and getting it protected: So now I just need to get the filler primer out (you can see the gap between the door and arch) and get it painted up: Now to see if I can get The Beast through its MoT 😅
  2. Hello everyone - I hope you're all keeping well! So I've not updated this for nearly 2 years... and believe it or not The Beast is still going. However it's very poorly. Turns out that crash in 2020 has totally knackered the NSR wheel arch area and I'll be honest... I'm kind of scared this could be the end. I'm really hoping it's a simple case of welding, but if it's anything more severe then I'm not sure what to do. I'm also getting problems with the turbo recirc system, which I still can't work out - I'm not sure if it's the N249 or what the hell is going on, but it's really driving me nuts. Currently sat SORN on the drive... I just hope that after nearly 14 years of ownership that I don't have to say goodbye 😢
  3. So, at long last I've taken the plunge and got the car up to Stage 1 - did want Stage 2 but I'm yet to fit an FMIC. There appears to be an issue with the N249 / N75 as the car is over and under boosting... as can be seen in the graph. Hopefully should be a simple fix. Car definitely feels more alive now 😎 For anyone who lives in the south east and is looking for mapping services, I'd definitely recommend DVS Tuning in Folkestone!
  4. Sooo, it's been a while since I've updated this. Not much has happened over the past year... other than having my front number plate nicked and buying a second (shiny) car - Audi S3 8P 🥰 However, after nearly 12 years of ownership I'm finally getting the Beast mapped to Stage 1 - custom map on a dyno. All booked in for next month 😎 Not sure what else is coming this year but I'm keen to get more mental stuff done. Paintwork needs a little TLC this summer but otherwise its going strong!
  5. A trip to Motorline Dartford

    © John Castiglione (C)2021

  6. Looks awesome - lets just hope it doesn't get the same negative attention the NorthantsPol ones got... "Ooh it looks too aggressive with all those scary markings"
  7. [SOLVED] Posting this for anyone who has similar issues and arrives here from a forum / Google search! Ok... so it turns out the issue was 2 things! The original issue was indeed the recirc valve - the old Split-R was knackered and not holding vacuum (hence the lumpy feeling when accelerating hard). Issue fixed with a new Forge 008 valve fitted. I got the AA out to have a look at the car not starting and explained the fuel pump wasn't priming - the technician grabbed a hammer, whacked something underneath the car whilst I tried starting it and VRRROOOOOOM! So it turns out my 6-month-old "DeatschWerks DW65v High-Flow Fuel Pump" was a pile of crap and certainly not worth the £230 I paid for it! New OEM pump was put in by my step-brother mechanic and hey presto... car all good again. Thanks for all your help Phil and J.R. - much appreciated For anyone thinking of getting the aforementioned fuel pump... AVOID!
  8. Ok so I've cleared that code and it's not come back. Today I've checked all the fuses (box and battery) and all of them appear fine. If the issue is the fuel pump, would that not throw up a code? I've never messed around with fuelling and don't know where the relay is or how to bypass it - bit worried if I mess around with that I might do more damage I did think that... but the immobiliser light only lights up briefly when the ignition is on (as with other lights) and disappears after a second or 2. If I try to start the car it stays off. I don't have a second key unfortunately.
  9. So, I've fitted the new recirc valve and a new Yuasa battery... I put the key in the ignition, the car fired into life and then immediately died. It's now throwing up a new code: P1602 - Power Supply Terminal 30 (low voltage). I just don't understand why the car isn't starting up properly. It was turning over before (albeit very rough) but since I've cleared the original P1200 code, it just won't fire into life anymore.
  10. Ah... the battery did die when it was off the road from August to November. It recharged and has been fine, but maybe it's faulty. Might be worth a new one then, although it's only died the once and is only 2 years old. I've noticed the fuel pump isn't priming when I open the front door, so maybe that's a sign the battery is duff. I didn't record the other codes, but they were nothing to do with the problems I'm having: [1] oil sensor missing due to shallow sump [2] central locking problem - not all doors lock when I press the internal lock button [3] air conditioning problem. I doubt any of those 3 would have anything to do with it as those problems have existed for years. I've bought a new Forge 008 recirc valve just in case the Split-R is knackered (007p is no longer in production) and an N279 solenoid - both should be here in the next couple of days. When I go to fit the solenoid I'll have a look at the connections, etc. Cheers for the help
  11. Ah ok that would make sense and explain why it was stuttering so much. Would that stop the car starting though? It was running before, but now it won't even fire... so possibly something else?
  12. Hello all! I've been searching away on the forum (and Google) and can't seem to find a definitive answer to the problem I'm having, so I'm wondering if anyone here can work it out. For the past week I've been driving the car round and every time I try to accelerate it starts stuttering really badly (as though someone is slamming on the brakes). Accelerating gently has been ok, but it's like the car has the flu. I had a new fuel pump fitted in the summer and originally thought it was that, but today I've fitted an OBDeleven device and found error code P1200 (apparently the recirv valve). I've got a Split-R fitted and installed correctly with the right number of clicks... it's been on the car for around 5 years now. Thing is, I've now cleared the code... which cut the engine out and now it won't start. It does try to start, but just as the engine is about to roar into life, it dies. I've had a cursory check around the pipes and can't find any splits (mostly replaced by silicone and aluminium piping now anyway). I just can't work it out - the car wants to start and get going, but something is stalling it. Any help appreciated P.S. There were other codes found but they were silly things like oil sensors (missing due to shallow sump installed) so they aren't an issue.
  13. We're back after 3 long months off the road! Car fully assessed - no damage to the chassis or any of the suspension, etc. The project continues - here's to the next 10 years 😎
  14. Still yet to be assessed, but I'm refusing to let the beast die... quick spruce up because I'm confident he'll get through it
  15. So... a Citroen decided to give the beast a nasty kiss. The woman who hit me has lied and said I changed lane into her (when in fact she tried to overtake a lorry and went straight into me without using her mirrors ) and so... Admiral have written-off the car and given me £3.55... won't be insuring with those scumbags again No idea what happens now as I don't know what category the write-off is and no idea if anyone will insure the car again. This may be the end after 10 long years together.
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