phazed

As above, can’t find a lightening bolt…”where to look” for dummies required!

I have been tracking my vRS MK1 for about 3 1/2 years now. I’ve done about 30 Track Days. Just discovered this forum. Does anyone else track their car? Seems awfully quiet!

Thank you for that response. I also occasionally track my 987.1 Boxster S which by gearbox comparison is just so much better. Even though the Octavia feel is perfectly good enough on the road, at speed, it is quite vague. The Boxster by comparison, even considering the long cable run from the gear change over the engine down to the rear transaxle is very sniickety. I think I will probably leave it alone at the moment. Just a thought, what is the gearbox like in the Audi TT. Is the front wheel drive only car a six speed box?

How is progress. Looks like it’s been quiet since May.

Ah, typo! 245 BHP. I am looking to upgrade that in the near future, if anyone has any parts they want to, “part“ with

Wow! £2000 in parts sounds outrageous! When I head, the LSD fitted into my existing five speed box, including a full check and replacing any worn parts didn’t cost be much more than £400. Obviously that wasn’t any gear sets. I assume, if you fit the six speed, gearbox from a petrol car, the ratios from what you say would be similar but with just a sixth speed to lower the rpm at speed. Is that correct? it would be good to compare the gear ratios side-by-side on the five speed and six speed box if anyone has the information.

I track my MK1 which is a very capable car. It is running to 45 bhp and 310ft lb of torque. Although I am very happy with the car, the five speed box leaves a bit to be desired. From the point of view of gear changes, as good as it is on the road, quick gear changes, especially 2nd to 3rd are a bit woolly and less precise than I would like. I understand that this is a road car but looking to improve matters. I have got the short shift or should I say shorter shift gizmo on the gearbox that I fitted a few years ago which improved matters. As for the five speeds, again, brilliant on the road, and considering the engine produces more torque , isn’t too bad on the track. What I am looking for is information as to upgrading to a six speed gearbox from another model and if it’s worth it. I don’t need an extra, “overdrive” gear. What I need is similar gearing but with six speeds closer together. Is that possible? I have this feeling that the diesel six speed box has longer gearing which would be a downside. Has anyone information on gear ratios, gearing or firsthand experience?. Appreciate any pointers on this.

that part in the middle at the top is the part that failed. That looks a great idea, where is that available from. Just going to pick up the oil cooler kit delayed due to 1st world problems! Lost house Internet for four days due to the National Trust cutting the overhead cable across woodland and also lost phone Internet access for a few days coincidentally at the same time due to a technical glitch with my provider! I don’t know how we survive in the western world …

As StevesTruck stated, keep it simple. My Eagle eyed son spotted some staining around the plastic housing on the right hand side of the cylinder head. This is the plastic housing where three hoses terminate with also a sensor located there. I have removed it and it seems that at high revs and prolonged use was letting go at the O ring. i’ve ordered a new better quality part as this was a pattern part fitted about 18 months ago. Note to myself, always use genuine or top quality parts on track cars! Thank you for your input guys. I will still fit the oil cooler as this will definitely benefit my set up.

I am picking up in oil cooler kit later today and my mechanic son is calling round a bit later to give me his tuppence worth. We will see.

Went for a spirited drive down the country lanes with lots of higher revs, (not a patch on track work though) and temperature gauge stayed at normal. Checked expansion bottle on return and water level was spot-on. I have heard of water pumps where the impellers breakdown and seem to work normally until pushed hard and obviously they aren’t shifting as much water as they should. I did replace the pump with cam belt three years ago and not a lot of miles ago so I am thinking that the likelihood of this is very low. Any thoughts on this?

Coincidentally, I fitted a new expansion bottle when I first bought the car about three years ago, that still seems sound and intact. It did occur to me that the pressure cap might well be faulty and not doing its job under extreme pressure! Also thinking that a proper oil cooler would help matters as an upgrade. They do come as standard with the small oil/water cooler but a proper 19 row or similar oil cooler must be much better. Any recommendations for a kit would be good.

Thanks. Will check.

Thanks for responding. No air-conditioning, I stripped that out. I will run it up this morning and see if the fans come on. As mentioned, the last few sessions I drove changing gear at 4.5 K revs and I could stay out for 15 minutes or so without noticeable loss as long as I came in as soon as the needle started going off normal. It is in the garage at the moment running. I have checked all the houses and there isn’t any noticeable leaks. I did stay out on the last session until the needle moved a few millimetres of normal and I had to top it up with about half a pint of water this morning. Regarding the fans, what sensor do they work from. Can I bridge this and check if they are both working? Do the fans work with one coming on first, and then the second if needed?

I use my MK1 purely for Track Days. It has been 100% reliable and have done about 25 in the last two years. On Friday the car started overheating slightly in the afternoon. I was pushing hard as usual and the temperature gauge slowly crept up a couple of segments, so I pulled off. Water wasn’t visible in the header tank and after letting it cool down, it took a couple of pints to top up. I’m not sure that the fans are working properly as when I came in, they were not turning. I went out another three times but kept short, shifting to keep the temps down which prolonged my sessions out and as soon as the temperature gauge started rising, I came back in to the pits. Sometimes it didn’t need a top up or other times just half a pint. Question, what is my problem? Some say that the fans generally don’t need to come on at speed as there is enough air flow to keep everything cool. Are these engines prone to head gasket problems? The car has only done about 85K miles and generally the engine is as sound as a bell. Any hints as to where to start looking for the problem? I decided also on the day that I should fit an oil cooler and will order one tomorrow to assist in cooling. By the way, new radiator was fitted three years ago when I first prepared the car for the track. I look forward to any suggestions. Cheers.

I did a proper mock up the other day. With the correct size discs and calipers fitted I would need a 10 mm spacer. I would not run anything more than a 3 mm spacer as this car is used for Track Days. The G force that is generated with sticky track tires puts such a strain on the front suspension front/axle et cetera that I would not risk it. Also, with a 10 mm spacer, the tyres would foul the wheel arches. Looks like if I want to go ahead with this, I need another set of wheels with the correct offset. Question, I assume that wheels from an LCR have the correct offset? Not keen on losing my niece Wolfrace Prolites… Damn!

My standard size discs, (312mm?). Looks like I will need a pair of the 323mm Discs. Brembo calibers are fine on the diameter of the 17" wheels. The callipers foul the back of the spokes as the Brembo callipers are deeper in thickness to the front! Alternative is about a 3-4 mm spacer, hmm.

I think it is definitely down to the damper/spring combination. It could be just as simple as the dampers are not very good. Or at the very least not set up for this particular car. Suspension upgrading is a black art. so easy to get wrong. As I might have mentioned, I had some expensive dampers supplied specifically by Nitron for my car, (TVR) sometime ago and they were awful. They went back for revalving three times and they still couldn’t get it right. In the end I went to a different make, (Gaz Mono’s) and the problem completely went away, and I had good suspension again.

Problem solved! got the parts from the guy I got the calibers from. Will order new discs tomorrow. Was thinking these as they are high quality. Any other recommendations? https://www.tarox.co.uk/product/front-tarox-brake-discs-seat-leon-1999-2005-typ-1m-cupra-r-1-8-turbo-20v-17-wheels-f2000/ States that they are for 17" wheels... I would hate to loose my Wolfrace wheels and a fairly new set of Toyo R888's. There seems to be plenty of space with the standard callipers...

Great, all those part numbers are discontinued!!! What can I do now?

Most useful thanks. I will get on to TPS unless anyone has any other suggestions? Here's hoping that they fit under my nice set of 17" Wolfrace Prolites...

Using the Brembo callipers, will I require the brackets? Or will they bolt straight on?

Hi. I know that many have done this over the years, apologies for a repeat of info. I have done a few dozen track days now with the standard front callipers, quality discs and DS2500 pads. Stopping has been surprisingly good but now ready for the next step. I have got hold of a pair of LCR Brembo calibers but unsure as to what else I need. From a bit of web searching I believe I need a pair of 323mm discs. Adapters, are these available off the shelf? Will I need longer hoses? Anything else? I assume that there is a brake bias valve on the car, does this remain the same? All help and info gratefully received. Maybe someone has some bits unused sitting at home?

Just had a little poke around as I haven’t used the car since the last track day. Took off the plastic cover under the fan motor, which revealed pretty much nothing apart from the fan, ran the fan up and put it all back together. For some reason it now all works perfectly. I guess either a stuck flap or a dodgy servo motor. When you use the hot and cold buttons to adjust temperature, you can hear various things moving internally so I assume all is okay for now. Doing Bedford Autodrome next Monday so fingers crossed I can turn the heating down once it gets warm in the cabin. Believe me, it was super hot last month, even in January at full chat…

Got a track day next Monday, so car has sat in the garage with other projects taking my attention . Can I access these flats easily enough? What is the best way to check please?