phazed

Having finished my Octy ready for a track evening as a shake down in a couple of weeks time, I took it out yesterday to check peddle positions for heal and toe etc. While trying a bit of left foot braking, I was surprised to learn that braking automatically cuts the throttle! I assume that is a safety thing and can understand why. Is there any way that this can be programmed out? I assume that if I disconnect the brake switch, that function may be disabled but if so, I would defo want brake lights working on track so not what I'm looking for. Any ideas?

I have my car prepared for track days, (first for this car in two weeks at Brands). I wondered if there is a dedicated harness bar that can be fitted to accommodate a 4 point harness? I don't mind removing the rear seats if necessary. Apart from the first few TD's that I did in a TVR with a standard inertia belt, (which was a challenge) I've always used a 4 point in my TVR's. The 2 previous TD's that I did in previous vRS's with a standard belt entailed wedging knees and body against transmission tunnel and door, not recommended. Any advice greatly received........

Interesting solution to the mooing noise. What actually causes the noise in the first place? I thought it was the pads on the disks hence I fitted the return spring. Hardly checked if the springs are effective as I've only done a few miles in the car.

Nice looking wheels ŁÓDŹ. Yes they are a little wide. They look good but I’m sure they will catch the arches. Mine are Wolfrace Prolite. they were on another Octavia that I bought a few years back and I’ve saved them for running track tyres on. A couple of little flakes here and there so I may get them powder coated, probably in black I guess.

What wheels do you propose to fit?

Nothing wrong with that. Ive been doing loads on my newly acquired MK1 prepping it for track days. going into more detail than anticipated as we, (I) have loads of time. I'll be interested to see your completed project.

What is the reason for changing discs and callipers? If it is for track days, I did a full on open pit-lane day with standard brakes fitted with Ferodo DS2500 pads. No brake fade at any time. I am a seasoned TDer and made full use of the brakes at the end of the long straight at Rockingham, (only way I could make up time against a Gaggle of TVR Cerberas). Very impressed with the brakes. I know the above didn't help but might be useful for someone considering TD's.

Just read this. Timely as I am removing the sump to cure an oil weep and will check the pickup at the same time. Great write up!

Thanks for that Leeboy. The info was spot on!

Quite right, the Cupra alloy wishbones have slotted connections for the lower ball joint and these can be adjusted to suit. From memory the toe in is only about 20 minutes as standard so I will leave it at this to start with. I always set my TVR up neutral. Even though the car will mainly be used for the odd track day, I don’t propose to make it fully hard-core! Just a bit of fun with a few track day mates when we can.

Had the wheel alignment done and set to Cupra R settings which are not to dissimilar from standard vRS settings. Only drove car home about 3 miles and the car felt really good on these few country lanes. Bring on different circumstances and I can give it a more dynamic test.

The Seat set up is almost identical. Same subframe, almost identical hubs, alloy suspension arms and a very similar looking but slightly quicker steering rack. I have read on here that this is a well-known modification and was hoping for some input from someone who has done this themselves. The car is not an everyday car and will be used mainly for Trackdays.

Can anyone let me know what the standard settings are so I know where to go from here, possibly!

Hi, some help needed please. Car is booked in for wheel alignment on Friday and I would like to tell them what the settings should be as it is modified. Car has: Cupra R subframe with quick rack and Cupra R hubs. Approx 20mm lowered suspension Any info will be gratefully received.

Just seen this. Thank you for your comments. Most useful. I am in the process of trying to source a thicker front anti roll bar and hopefully will know a bit more information tomorrow. COVID doesn’t help! I am fortunate enough to have a two post lift in my garage so it is relatively a piece of cake! If I can’t get hold of a new anti-rollbar then I will put the subframe back which is removed at the moment with the existing original anti roll bar and replace it at some point in the future.

And so it now works for my iPad. Enough of this! I have got as far as I can with the underneath of the car at the moment so will look at the air filter scenario tomorrow.

Just tried from my iPad and it wouldn’t work direct from photographs but seems to from my iPhone.

I see what you mean, it works! Much simpler than PistonHeads for instance.

Very nice....." obviously i'm useless at posting photos!

Thanks for the info.

Is it possible to change a front ARB without removing the subframe?

It is difficult to calculate and can probably only be qualified on the Rolling Road. I fitted a 100 mm intake with massive K&N filter to my 400bhp TVR and found that max power was obtained at about 3/4 throttle, The larger intake and filter were irrelevant.

My question is then, is the standard set up adequate for 230 bhp?