phazed

Who could do tis, a remapper?

Enjoyed that thread but may have missed what ARB's he used....

Wondering if this is worthwhile for my track day focused vRS? Looking for feedback one way or another..............

Just picked up a 23 mm R32 front ARB. Looks like the front subframe may have to be dropped a bit to change the ARB, is that correct? Looks like I’ll be getting another set of stretch bolts for the Subframe! That was a waste, renewed these a few months ago!!!

How long do these take to get in?

I've been reading that a 25mm rear works best with the 23mm front. Do you agree?

Thanks for the advice. New discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads. new high temp brake fluid. ised this combo with a previous vRS without any problems.

I have been reading on here about various options. My car will mainly be used for TD's. Looking to fit the best option so advice needed. Standard vRS is 19mm apparently and the R32 is 23mm which is the way to go.............apparently. What about the rear? Leave as is or add an aftermarket one? The car is lowered and has aftermarket dampers and stiffer springs. Look forward to any advice.

Just in case anyone is interested. The above is my first attempt with Matt Pack peel-able paint, (like Plastidip).

Deleted first try!

Thanks for that. I think that I will be going down that route long term. Before I saw your post, I found this. Uses the rear seat belt buckles for occasional use. Seems like a temporary plan if I can get hold of one..... https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/schroth-skoda-octavia-type-1u-quickfit-asm-harness-belt/

Having finished my Octy ready for a track evening as a shake down in a couple of weeks time, I took it out yesterday to check peddle positions for heal and toe etc. While trying a bit of left foot braking, I was surprised to learn that braking automatically cuts the throttle! I assume that is a safety thing and can understand why. Is there any way that this can be programmed out? I assume that if I disconnect the brake switch, that function may be disabled but if so, I would defo want brake lights working on track so not what I'm looking for. Any ideas?

I have my car prepared for track days, (first for this car in two weeks at Brands). I wondered if there is a dedicated harness bar that can be fitted to accommodate a 4 point harness? I don't mind removing the rear seats if necessary. Apart from the first few TD's that I did in a TVR with a standard inertia belt, (which was a challenge) I've always used a 4 point in my TVR's. The 2 previous TD's that I did in previous vRS's with a standard belt entailed wedging knees and body against transmission tunnel and door, not recommended. Any advice greatly received........

Interesting solution to the mooing noise. What actually causes the noise in the first place? I thought it was the pads on the disks hence I fitted the return spring. Hardly checked if the springs are effective as I've only done a few miles in the car.

Nice looking wheels ŁÓDŹ. Yes they are a little wide. They look good but I’m sure they will catch the arches. Mine are Wolfrace Prolite. they were on another Octavia that I bought a few years back and I’ve saved them for running track tyres on. A couple of little flakes here and there so I may get them powder coated, probably in black I guess.

What wheels do you propose to fit?

Nothing wrong with that. Ive been doing loads on my newly acquired MK1 prepping it for track days. going into more detail than anticipated as we, (I) have loads of time. I'll be interested to see your completed project.

What is the reason for changing discs and callipers? If it is for track days, I did a full on open pit-lane day with standard brakes fitted with Ferodo DS2500 pads. No brake fade at any time. I am a seasoned TDer and made full use of the brakes at the end of the long straight at Rockingham, (only way I could make up time against a Gaggle of TVR Cerberas). Very impressed with the brakes. I know the above didn't help but might be useful for someone considering TD's.

Just read this. Timely as I am removing the sump to cure an oil weep and will check the pickup at the same time. Great write up!

Thanks for that Leeboy. The info was spot on!

Quite right, the Cupra alloy wishbones have slotted connections for the lower ball joint and these can be adjusted to suit. From memory the toe in is only about 20 minutes as standard so I will leave it at this to start with. I always set my TVR up neutral. Even though the car will mainly be used for the odd track day, I don’t propose to make it fully hard-core! Just a bit of fun with a few track day mates when we can.