mike07vrs

Never heard about this though will definately give it a go at the weekend, I'm also going to check all the torque's of the bolts for the subframe etc and other suspension components

I find that gear changes can be a little notchy at first, especially if its cold. However once the car is up to temperature its fine.

Mine runs fine on shortened links

For that money I'd be considering an S3, I think there is even a few Mk2's out there for about £8k. Out of that list it would have to be the 330 without a doubt though the R26 is nice . . . .

The plan for this weekend is to check all torque's for the subframe and suspension components then remove, clean and regrease the ARB bushes. I'm going to work a week at a time and check each component. It seems the only logical way of getting to the bottom of this noise.

Hasn't worked, that was with a 1k resistor, just going to find a canbus bulb for it

Its got a filter inside it, attached to the top outlet pipe, its definately the best place to have it

Spent all day Saturday trying to find the source of this creaking noise, long story short I haven't. I got the wheels off, checked all the bushes, which still had plenty of copper grease from when they were fitted, even the ARB bushes so gave them some more and moved on. I then cleaned the coilovers and found the driver side spring had been rubbing as the underside of the spring was worn to the bare metal. I put some plastic pipe over the spring below, taped it all up then greased the entire spring. Upon checking the passenger side there it is slightly worn but not as heavily as the driver side. I greased that side aswell and wound the coilovers up 2 threads. I then had a look at where the droplinks were catching the wheel arch liner and trimmed it so they would no longer catch. Turns out the driver side droplink has somehow burst so had to take it off, regrease the ball unit and secure the rubber. Only fitted them last weekend! Anyway went on to check the PAS fluid, just under halfway and fluid seemed okay so didn't need to do anything there. I had hoped that the sound might just have been the spring scrapping but appears not, certainly it isn't as loud when manoeuvring but it is still present when moving at low speed in a straight line. Bearing all this in mind does anyone have any further suggestions? On top that I had another go at fitting the oil catch can, got it mounted fine but the hoses weren't playing ball so will do some changes and try again, got a few pictures; It fits perfectly bolted to the airbox however I'll need to adjust the bracket slightly and find some larger diameter hose.

Spent all day Saturday trying to find the source of this creaking noise, long story short I haven't. I got the wheels off, checked all the bushes, which still had plenty of copper grease from when they were fitted, even the ARB bushes so gave them some more and moved on. I then cleaned the coilovers and found the driver side spring had been rubbing as the underside of the spring was worn to the bare metal. I put some plastic pipe over the spring below, taped it all up then greased the entire spring. Upon checking the passenger side there it is slightly worn but not as heavily as the driver side. I greased that side aswell and wound the coilovers up 2 threads. I then had a look at where the droplinks were catching the wheel arch liner and trimmed it so they would no longer catch. Turns out the driver side droplink has somehow burst so had to take it off, regrease the ball unit and secure the rubber. Only fitted them last weekend! Anyway went on to check the PAS fluid, just under halfway and fluid seemed okay so didn't need to do anything there. I had hoped that the sound might just have been the spring scrapping but appears not, certainly it isn't as loud when manoeuvring but it is still present when moving at low speed in a straight line. Bearing all this in mind does anyone have any further suggestions?

Hmm I'll have a look into some helper springs then if I don't find any problems this weekend, were they expensive?

Everything other than the lower ball joints has been changed within the last 2-3 months, even then they seemed okay. I mean to check the fluid level anyway, after reading that you need to remove the battery etc to get into it I thought I may as well change it while I'm there.

The ARB bushes were thoroughly greased not long ago along with everything else. I've read through that thread before, it seems whenever you sort one noise, two more start

Sounds like I have a fun filled afternoon ahead of me

I had experimented with a couple of idea's, basically a catch tank with a small breather filter inside; The first one proved to be too big and heavy so was scrapped. The second attempt is a lot smaller and lighter without a drainage plug and with the top flange on the inside; I'm going to have a go at finishing it this weekend and mounting it to the airbox as the main reason I gave up was trying to find a suitable mounting place.

The Skoda garage in Ayr wanted about £90 for rear discs and pads (with discount), ended up paying about £38 for the lot from a local place, that was for Pagid discs and pads. Just spotted your from North Ayrshire, I got them from A&L Paints in Kilmarnock, just behind the Galleon Centre.

I noticed the droplink was catching on the arch liner so I'll be trimming the liner slightly this afternoon however that does not explain the creaking sound at low speed in a straight line. A friend of mien suggested changing the PAS fluid, not sure how much good it'll do but its worth a shot.

Trying to eliminate a really bad creaking sound I'm getting at the moment (Click), a mechanic friend of mine suggested that it might be worth doing, apparently his brother's racing puma had a similar sound and it turned out the fluid needed changed. At this stage I'm willing to give it a go. My car is currently on 72k miles so changing the fluid certainly can't hurt.

There is a link in my original post at 5. which is for the same kit but unpainted, which is £30 cheaper, cost of paint about £5. Couple of coats of paint and you've saved yourself £25.

If your talking about the 312mm brakes you replace the calipers, carriers, discs and pads

Has anyone changed their power assisted steering fluid, I plan on changing mine this weekend could someone tell what type of fluid I need and any information on the changing process. Cheers

On a budget of £1K I'd suggest looking into some of the "pikey mods" as a way of keeping the cost down. Anyway I can answer a few of your questions. 1. EGR Delete is generally only used on BLT engines (05 onwards IIRC), a 2004 model (like mine) will have an ASZ engine, the key difference is the ASZ engine comes with the EGR valve and ASZ (anti-shudder valve) combined so removing the EGR removes the ASV valve which means when you turn the engine off it will "shudder", this could lead to wearing out the engine mounts etc. There is a lot of topics covering this, probably best to have a good read into yourself. 2. From what I've read Shark are very highly rated however there is a fairly long list of tried and tested places, again reading other people's reviews is probably the best way to decide. 3. Eibach springs will lower the car by 25mm, obviously coilovers mean you can set it to your own liking, a few people are running the likes of JOM coilovers which can be picked up for about £200-£250. I'd recommend sending a message to Damian@DPM who can offer you some suggestions that will suite your budget. Eibach Springs 4. Paint the interior plastic's is probably the cheapest and easiest way, have a look at Tech1e's fabia. Also adding LED's is fairly cheap and simple. 5. To improve the stopping power go for the 312mm brake upgrade, I just done it last week and is a huge improvement. Handling wise if you were to go for coilovers and had them set fairly low I'd probably skip a RARB however the Whiteline RARB is a fraction of the price of a Jabba RARB and essentially does the same job. Brakes, Whiteline RARB 6. PD160 is good for the reason it is like an OEM+ upgrade however at £90 new is a bit of a rip, second hands one come up every once in a while but can still go for silly money. In the interest of keeping cost down a length of ducting from the intake to the airbox will do the same job, there is a few examples on here. 7. Yes, however 300 lbs.ft is the limit of the standard clutch, 290 lbs.ft would be as high as I'd push it on standard clutch simply to keep it reliable as ruining the clutch would be rather expensive to fix. Some people have run 300 lbs.ft before however so your choice. 8. The standard front speakers are okay, upgrading the headunit will probably be the most noticeable improvement. There is Blaupunkt OEM rear speaker upgrade's for sale on ebay that most people have opted for (myself included). Speakers. 9. SEAT Dealer will have them for about £40, dead easy to fit and as mentioned there is a Guide. 10. No idea don't use HID's, but plenty of info on them. If you want to stick to your £1K budget then there is a few things you will need to miss out, either that or spend more money. Hope this helps

Has it done much too reduce the noise, any pictures? I think I saw something on this a while back

I'm going to spend this weekend cleaning and greasing the coilovers and the console bushes if I can get in at them. As for the noise from the dash I sometimes get a very high pitched vibration coming from the centre console however I've ot been able to identify what is causing it. If I were you I'd have a look at the panel underneath the steering wheel, I know mines vibrates badly over rough spots. Had a quick look at the bonnet last night, could get it to make the noise you described so guess it can't be that causing the noise I'm hearing. Try removing the front panel from the underside of the drivers seat, if you look underneath the base there is 2 springs I think, give them a good blast with some WD40 and that should help, it did for me anyway.

Yeah i'm on KW's. Found any solution to the creaking? Really the bonnet? I'll need to give that a go. Found any way of stopping it?

Okay cheers mate I'll give it a go at the weekend