Tankdave

3V0075111 & 3V0075101 fitted to my 2023 F/L (Superb 3V) model OK. They were sold for 2015-2023 model, so I guess the F/L is different

Thought I would make sure they fit OK, they do fit with loads of clearance and I also believe they are going to look rather nice

JR SL-01 19x8.0 ET34 Went with a 10mm lower ET from stock. I tested 13mm spacers & I thought the rears looked a little too far out for me, so I played it safe with a bit less. I don't want to go out past my mudflaps either as it gets muddy where I live. PS. The car is not lowered as such, just the factory 11mm for the L&K (10mm for the adaptive dampers plus 1mm for it being a 280)

You get the idea, if you need to ask "why?" please see the front wheel. Gotta wait till I can afford & sort some tyres now but they are nice & light at 8.8kg. Was a toss up between the Matt Grey or Bronze so I decided I'd go "a bit different "this time.

The seat belt sockets are spring loaded so can swivel up & down, is that what you mean?

Rain Stopped, so had another go & won this time, below is the hook and it's location, one each end obviously, push down above it & pull forwards just as JR-RS said. It helps to know exactly where the hooks are, i.e. the 2nd one took 3 seconds to unlatch

Had another go at this & it still won't budge at the back, the rain has suspended my swearing for now.

Just to add, I have been searching on here and need to confirm that I need to remove the plastic ISO-fix clips & surrounds? and I have seen a post about some hooks at the rear & the ends too, I'm just worried about damaging anything in my nice new motor.

The rear bench seat is held in place by two "single use" clips under the front part of the set, one each side. I have yanked mine up ok releasing these clips but the seat is not budging, its appears to be very solidly fixed at the back if the seat squab / ISO-Fix area. Now I don't have enough room to replace the clips, so I think I need to get this seat base out completely to be able to run my cable and to replace the plastic clips holding the front down. It's another one of those "I wish I never started this" moments.

Awesome, will give that a go Tmrw Thanks

I'm embarrassed to ask, but how do they come out of the backrest? One steel shaft has the detents that set the height, the other side don't have them but it don't seem to want to come out, the side "without" the detents seems to be stopping me from getting the blasted things out. Why do I need to get them out, "well" one of them needs to be replaced under warrantee and it'll be a lot easier for me to just leave the headrest with my dealer than have to book the car in to the workshop as they have requested. (It's not faulty because it's stuck BTW, all 3 don't want to come out) The car is a Mk3(FL) L&K

I have 19"s on order, so soon to be on them. And according to my receipt its Part KZGBBOM251SK, priced at £211 +Vat I also believe a full size 16" spare would not have fit over my "280" bigger discs

I put the 18" space saver & toolkit in mine, cost me £253

They are permanent and the alternate position is not wired in the fuse box, you can move the fuse half a position bit it will not work, it did work on my previous Q2 so it seems it may be a cost-saving exercise.

Wheels look great. I'm was thinking of the 19x8.0 SL01's with ET35 or the 19x8.5 ones with ET40, but yours look real good on the ET33, I assume the tyres are still 235 ??

Just for info. Mine does the 1 mph and the 5 mph increments by default, up & down for the 5 mph steps and pull the lever / press the button for the 1 mph steps. The ability to change the 5 mph steps is still handy to know 🙂, it gives me more options. Now, setting the 1 mph ones to 2 mph increment steps would be handy, i.e. having both the 5 mph and 2 mph would suit me 😉, think I will have to look into this

The 12V sockets do not have the "Ignition Controlled" option at the fuse box, the wiring is not there. I have run my own outlet using Fuse-47 position, it's for the rear wiper that's not fitted to my car and it goes on & off with the ignition. My twin outlet will stay under the boot floor and will supply my Sub & my rear dashcam. For my front dash cam I used the smaller Fuse-37 position to connect my "Tap" too, this one would have been for the USB-C socket by the mirror that I also did not get, it also comes on with ignition. So unfortunately there is no easy solution like you get on the Audi's

Back in a Skoda Superb after about a 12 year gap, this time it's a 280 L&K and it's such a nice comfy ride after my last rock-hard Hyundai "N" thing but it's equally quick. I do find the wheels ghastly, they even protrude more than the tyre walls making them next to impossible of staying free from kerb damage. That said the wheels alone are not enough to spoil everything else about the car.

I'm currently in the process of working out how to wire up my two dashcams & subwoofer. I also have the USB-C blanking plug in my mirror housing, and this morning I have taken a look at the fuse-box behind the glovebox and I have noted a fuse position 37 specifically for the mirror USB power supply. It don't have a fuse of course but is also missing the wire that would take the power to the socket, it only has the feed voltage connection, ignition controlled so I think I will use it for my front dash cam, I cannot see the point in taking the mirror apart now in the hope the power is sitting their waiting because the wire is not in the loom. I had a friend that worked in the Honda plant doing dashboards and it was very normal to have different looms depending on spec, so I guess it's common practice, annoying that is. BTW the Fuse position 47 for the rear-wiper I don't have on my car is just the same, the feed is there but the wire that would go to the wiper is not, it's a great location for my sub/ rear dashcam feed as it's also ignition controlled. I think I'll use for the wire I need to run to the back of car. These MoCo's save every penny.

Great info, looks like the full under tray uses the same fixings with just the 3 additional fixings at its rear that I need to source?

Thanks for the extra info, at least I know nothing is missing because it has the smaller under-engine guard that I assume is what you get by default. Next thought is "Is it worth putting a full one on?" - lol

Interesting, mine is a DCC vehicle and I have the plastic protectors, albeit different looking on the rear arms but the short / sump visible engine one. So when you say it's optional on DCC cars, do you mean it would have to be "factory" ordered and only if DCC equipped??

Thanks guy's, the missing undertray is another one I can cross off the list. IMHO they have opted for a short under tray on our 280's for increased cooling because the "lesser" models still get a full tray. Wish mine had the Trinity's, if I painted my wheels black they would look like shiny plastic hubcaps even more than they do already, their saving grace is the 18's ride nice. If I do go for 19's I'll probably have All Seasons on them, they run a bit softer so the change may not be too noticeable

I did check the "Audi Throttle" setting in VCDS and mine is already set to that, I'll just get used to what I have for now before jumping in with a pedal box. I also apologise for not stating the wheels on mine are the 18" ones that look like plastic hubcaps. If I change them I was considering 19's but I do like the way my car rides on our rubbish roads. Maybe I'll try to like what they look like a bit harder if the 19's will spoil my ride. Got two dashcams to fit also, so a bit annoying to discover the 12V outlets are permanently powered, I will have to purchase one of those little timer/voltage drop boxes. The Undertray is the most urgent as I can get the dealer to get me one, if it is missing of course. Thanks again