Tankdave

Hi Guy's The Sub is a Pioneer TS-WX710A It has "speaker level" inputs so I have made up a mini-loom using bullit connectors, it fits in-line to the 4-wire connector that plugs into the OEM sub. These 4 wires are just 2 spreaker feeds, the Pioneer sub has a seperate left & right input, i.e. it's a 2 ch, 2 speaker unit. So one pair of the 4-wire connector feeds one of the Pioneer inputs, the other pair feeds the second. I have done it this way to make it easy to remove as I can just remove my loom and join the original loom wiring back together with bullit connectors. An easier way would be to use the Scotch-Lock "T" connectors on the 4 wires that plug into the OEM sub. I did have to take that apart to identify what wires made up the 2 seperate pairs/feeds to the speaker coils. taking the side panel out was the biggest PITA if I remember, I have no idea if this sub is still made? I have had it many years in many cars, it still works great though. It is made of heavy MDF hence all the strapping it down

Sorry for posting a "service" issue here but it may be 280 specific? Just had my 1st service at 16 months from purchase as the car was set to flexible. I requested it be kept this way but I've noticed the car is now stating the next oil change is due in 440 days? Two days later its down to 438 so I reset it myself this time "with VCDS" and it went back to 440 days, Should it not be 730 days initially before the car computes it needs to be lower etc? or is this what the 280 engine is supposed to be? even then why did I get about 500 days the first time? Or is the car not set to flexible now? Not sure how I can see this on the laptop/VCDS Thanks in advane

I have strapped my trusty old Pioneer Sub in place. It adds some more bass depth for sure but it also saves having to have the bass cranked on the equaliser making an easier life for the OEM gear. I have the remote for it in the centre console, x-over is set to @70Hz / 80Hz and IMHO it blends in very nicely with the Canton system and probably worth mentioning that the Canton sub is still working too, I have just tapped into it's dual coil feed and connected this to the two speaker-level inputs on the Pioneer. Please note this pic is before I completed the job, i.e. there are no wires visible or bits of blue foam now.

Mine did ask me to "OK" an update on the screen recently so I'll guess mine has updated itself and maybe 24.10 is even newer than the wk48/2024? They don't make it easy but they do want you to go pay a dealer I suppose?

This thread is a good timed one for me I just tried to upgrade to the week 48/2024 maps and like others here I get nothing showing when I hit the "upgrade" button no matter what I plug in or connect to wifi. My System page does state my maps are 24.10, does anyone know it that is the latest? It may explain my lack of progress so far if its already there?

The centre line of the wheel is inwards from the hub face, When you reduce this measurement it will bring the centre line of the wheel closer to the hub in an outwardly direction. In my case the 10mm lower ET/offset moved the wheel face out by the 10mm, of course this only applies because I used the same wheel width as the OEM ones It's all about where the centre line of wheel ends up in relation to the hub Have a look at "willtheyfit.com"

Popped a protective screen cover on the Columbus and no bubbles or dirt. 😃 I do clean it a lot because the finger prints drive me mad, so this'll get scratched up from all the cleaning instead of the main unit (I did initially see a dirt piece under it so lifted it up, dirt dabbed with supplied sticky thing and it went back down clean)

I changed mine OK with VCDS

For Ref they are 8.0x19 ET34 with 235/40 tyres, pics below show where they sit in relation to the body a bit better. I de-badged the rear too, it maybe controversial but I prefer the clean look.

Finally got the SL01's on.

This A-Pillar trim was about the easiest VAG one so far but still a bit scary. I just decided to try & yank it off see what happened, you know the rest

A-Pillar trim is a simple spring-clip affair, don't panic. Yank it at the top, two clips to release & the bottom bit just sits in a slot at the end of the dash

Nice work, it looks good

Goes by the name of "Sun visor 3V5064361A" Anyone have it? is it OK?

My Mk3FL Hatch with the hinging shelf has no net or fixings for one but I have noticed what appears to be a set of slots directly below the ones that the parcel shelf fits into. Also spotted one of the lights not working, so much for LED's lasting longer that good old fashioned bulbs.

Quick question, does my 2023 "facelift" 280 have exhaust flaps? it certainly don't sound like it has anything making it any louder "at any time" It's fine that it's quiet but after seeing this thread I'm now curious. I am familiar with them, previously had an SQ2

The Canton Subwoofer is behind mine & the two of the plastic / velcro gadgets are stored behind the panel "mines a hatch BTW"

Sorry for my mistake but rest assured they did fit well

3V0075111 & 3V0075101 fitted to my 2023 F/L (Superb 3V) model OK. They were sold for 2015-2023 model, so I guess the F/L is different

Thought I would make sure they fit OK, they do fit with loads of clearance and I also believe they are going to look rather nice

JR SL-01 19x8.0 ET34 Went with a 10mm lower ET from stock. I tested 13mm spacers & I thought the rears looked a little too far out for me, so I played it safe with a bit less. I don't want to go out past my mudflaps either as it gets muddy where I live. PS. The car is not lowered as such, just the factory 11mm for the L&K (10mm for the adaptive dampers plus 1mm for it being a 280)

You get the idea, if you need to ask "why?" please see the front wheel. Gotta wait till I can afford & sort some tyres now but they are nice & light at 8.8kg. Was a toss up between the Matt Grey or Bronze so I decided I'd go "a bit different "this time.

The seat belt sockets are spring loaded so can swivel up & down, is that what you mean?

Rain Stopped, so had another go & won this time, below is the hook and it's location, one each end obviously, push down above it & pull forwards just as JR-RS said. It helps to know exactly where the hooks are, i.e. the 2nd one took 3 seconds to unlatch