chimaera

That's all already in the table I posted in the OP. So 0YF if I remember correctly (phone won't open the pdf for some reason) is weight range 6 and 1JA is standard chassis, same as my car. I have the OE towbar and two child seats, and found that even with new springs and dampers that the car still sagged by about 20 mm. I recently fitted a pair of MAD auxiliary springs and it now sits at the correct height. If you think you need new parts anyway, you could try going to a higher weight range in the same chassis category. From a quick glance at a parts catalogue it looks like there are fewer combinations for the front: it's probable that each front spec is grouped with a few rears. I'm not sure how they are grouped though and I haven't had the time recently to research it.

Most of the suspension related codes are not printed on the option label, only the one for front damping. In your case this is G07 which means it's standard chassis. If you sign up to erWin you can pay to get the full list of PR codes for your car, or a friendly dealer might tell you what's fitted. Another thing you can do is jack up the car and see what paint marks are on the rear springs - they can be cross-referenced with the table I attached to the OP.

Oh dear, scotchloks. Is this at the BCM? The Westfalia and OE kits have all of the proper plugs and pin connectors to do this without resorting to scotchloks.

If you're changing to standard chassis you need dampers/shocks on all 4 corners too.

Further, the tables I compiled from the part numbers bear this out. Three of the four Higher Chassis weight ranges share springs with the Standard Chassis (3C0 511 115 AF, AG, BL), yet there's a specified 10 mm difference in ride height. The only other component that can affect ride height is the damper, and the two damper P/Ns for the Higher chassis are unique to that variant. QED.

That depends on what you want out of the exercise. If you're otherwise happy with the Greenline suspension, then the easiest thing to do is replace springs and dampers at the rear with the same spec as is on it. Depending on what weight range is specified, new parts might be enough to bring it back to its correct ride height. If it doesn't then you could fit auxiliary springs, though I'm not sure if there is an option available for the Greenline suspension. If you can identify the weight range fitted to your car, then you could look at fitting springs and dampers from a higher weight range. The maximum weight range available for Sport chassis (which is assumed to be what's fitted to the Greenline) is 8. I don't know if the front would need to be changed to match this: the weight range designations (and the PR codes for them) are different for the front. If you're not happy with the Greenline suspension, then you could change to the standard suspension. You would need to do this front and rear to maintain the suspension geometry. You would need to replace springs and dampers front and rear, and get a full alignment done afterwards.

I too am a design engineer FWIW. There's a compressible gas capsule in the damper. This is a spring by any definition. If you want to believe otherwise that's up to you. Not all dampers are monotube gas type, particularly on older vehicles (Bilstein's original patent on the technology expired in 1971 and up to that point they were the only company making this type), so it's certainly plausible to think from experience that there's no spring effect. I can say with confidence that the Superb 2 sits on a monotube gas type, which does have that compressible gas capsule, and therefore has a spring constant of its own which will affect ride height. I've seen this happen myself on two different vehicles when I've replaced the dampers: the ride height measured from wheel centre to top of the arch increased after fitting the new dampers. It was also quite obvious from the condition of new vs old dampers. The old ones could be pushed down easily by hand and didn't recoil once pushed down; part of this is due to the fluid being worn and the holes in the damping element being worn, but the other part is that the seals will have worn on the gas capsule and it will have lost pressure and no longer function as a spring. Any new dampers of this type that I've bought have had a wire holding them slightly compressed, and they've immediately popped up when this was removed; after that it was impossible to push them down by hand. Pretty typical of a stiff spring element. Make of this what you will. Technology changes, and what was once common sense might no longer be valid.

Some background reading on the topic of gas dampers: https://web.archive.org/web/20140102200021/http://millingtoncentralhs.scsk12.org/~jkasper/Site/Homework_handouts_files/Shocks Monotube.pdf Especially this paragraph: This is a nice explanation of the effect of combining springs: https://www.flinnsci.com/api/library/Download/6b84d135cc974a8a9ae07a7289fcd79e

They have a (small) spring stiffness as well as the damping function, they will have a small effect on ride height. Read up on Hooke's Law if you want to understand it more.

Aftermarket equivalent. It's not really that weird though. It's a common complaint about the Superb 2, especially on estates with lower weight range springs. It would be curious to see what weight range is fitted to yours. What paint marks are on the springs?

Gas dampers do have a spring effect which adds to the coil's stiffness. This is quite obvious if you compare the stiffness of a new damper to an old one.

Mine is standard chassis with weight range 6. Even on new springs and dampers it was sitting 19 mm below where it should be at the back (front is still fine on the original parts). I have a towbar fitted though plus two child seats in the back. I recently fitted a set of MAD auxiliary springs and it's spot on now.

You've been told this every time you post on this topic: the Greenline is lowered compared to the standard models. It may also be sagging further than normal because that's a common issue for all Superb 2 models. The thread I linked to above explains everything you need to know to answer your question and decide on a solution. There is no magical solution that has been hidden from you.

Have a read here:

Skoda never printed an insert card for the internal fuse panel for RHD cars, which have a layout that's a mirror image of that in LHD cars, so you have to factor that in when checking fuses. As for your current issue, you have a diagnostic fault code for a sensor in the ABS. Assuming it's not an old code, I'd start there. Fix the problem you know you have first.

No. You're burning the same amount of fuel, which releases the same amount of energy, resulting in the same temperature change during the cycle. If anything, EGT could go up since less energy is getting bound by N-O bonds in NOx, which releases more heat to the exhaust.

EGR doesn't reduce combustion temperatures, it reduces the oxygen concentration in the combustion chamber down towards stoichiometric levels to reduce the amount of excess oxygen available to oxidise nitrogen to NOx, without affecting the distribution of oxygen in the space which would screw with initiation and propagation of the flame.

I'm well aware of the difference between absolute and gauge pressure thanks!

Not necessarily. The amount of air a turbo will push is a function of the turbo size as well as the boost pressure. A big turbo at low boost can push as much air as a small turbo at high boost. That said, 2.6 is pretty high for any turbo to run; it would be interesting to see where that sits in the turbo's compressor map.

There are three separate fuse panels in the Superb, the one at the end of the dashboard, and two beside the battery in the engine compartment. I think @langers2k is suggesting you take a look in the two panels beside the battery. I'm not 100 % sure which fuses do what in there but it looks like SB16 and SB26 would be worth a look as both are involved in powering the BCM, which is what controls all the exterior lighting on the vehicle.

I went with the Skoda OE towbar and wiring and it was straightforward, if time consuming, to fit. The OE kit comes with a detailed fitting guide. The first thing to do before you spend any money is check whether your car has factory towbar wiring prep: if it does then it means the wiring from the fuse panel down to the boot has been fitted at the factory and you need a simpler(and cheaper) wiring kit and a lot less work to install the remaining parts. It'll be in the option codes on the sticker in the boot, use the tool here to decode it: http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx The only really tricky bit of the wiring install is sorting out the CAN lines and the brake pedal switch line on the BCM connector. It's awkward to get at and the pins are small and fiddly. The stuff in the boot is straightforward once you've spent an hour removing all the trim first.

If it was on the V5 when you bought the car, you're in a somewhat weak position here as it wouldn't be unreasonable to expect you to read the paperwork thoroughly when completing the purchase. That said, it doesn't reflect well on the dealer either that this wasn't disclosed at the time as you would absolutely expect the dealer to have done due diligence on the vehicle when it came in to them. I'd put it to them that the write-off condition was noted on the V5 at the time the car was sold and see what they say.

Honestly I can't remember. I know the front ones can be moved, so possibly it should be the same for the back.

What condition is the wiper motor and mechanism in? If it's stiff it could be drawing too much current to drive it, causing the fuse to pop. It might be worth taking the motor out and giving everything a clean up and some lubrication.

This is why you should always do your own history check, no matter what the salescritter says. Water under the bridge now but you know for next time. I'd suggest getting some advice from a solicitor or a trustworthy consumer advocacy group on what to do next. My sense is that the dealer is in the wrong here no matter what: either they sold you a car knowing it was written off previously, or they failed to do due diligence on their purchase of it, suggesting that they're a bit incompetent.