chimaera

Why would I waste money on something that I know objectively cannot possibly do what its makers claim? Whatever you might choose to believe, it is a matter of fact that this device can't work.

No, FM supports radio text as well, but not every station uses it.

There's an option somewhere in the settings to display radio data. That will do what you want.

Get it scanned with VCDS or similar. My bet would be cracked wiring between the driver's door and body, or a flaky switch inside the lock, either of which could intermittently make the alarm think the door has been unlocked and decide to go off. The door control module will have stored codes related to this if it happens to be the problem.

FLIR could work if eye-tracking technology gets good enough to accurately predict where the driver is looking, and use that to position the HUD overlay so that it is overlaid on the object picked up by the FLIR camera and focused appropriately so that what the driver sees is seamless. I'm not sure we're there yet. Agreed. If you have to look at the controls the whole time you're interacting with them it's a problem. CANBUS is a data bus/communications protocol. It provides a standardised means of communications between devices on the network. It doesn't require that the devices must be able to understand & process data sent to them via the network. To do what you are proposing, you will need to know in detail how each of the modules you are linking together function. What information they can send via C ANBUS, what they can receive & process, whether they are limited to only communicating with certain addresses, and probably a whole bunch of other stuff I'm not even aware of.

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do 24 h subscription should be enough to grab everything you need.

What year is it? The TSI engines have a timing chain rather than a belt. I believe the 2.0 can suffer similar problems to the 1.8 - those are well documented around here if you do a search.

Skoda don't offer an 18" space saver for the Superb, just the 16" one noted above. The standard 7.5x18 wheel with 225/40/R18 usually fits the spare wheel well though if you can find one. 4x4 has the same boot floor as the FWD model.

I doubt it'd work. The ski hatch won't even open past the older child's booster seat in mine. I've seen some companies offer custom made frames to hold three seats where there aren't normally fixings for them but I don't know how good they are regarding regulations and fit.

Injectors won't necessarily show a fault code, even if they're worn. I'm aware of the wear on mine because my mechanic picked up on it last year and advised me on what to keep an eye on. Right now I would suggest you replace the faulty DPF sensor and see if it makes a difference before looking for more faults.

The service manuals are available from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/ and include full details of intake manifold removal. The main challenge is that you must remove the high-pressure injection lines between the fuel rail and injectors, which requires a little care for safety and functionality after reassembly. If you're not comfortable working on that part of the fuel system it's probably a job best left to someone who is. There are no moving parts inside the manifold, the only flap is the one in the throttle body which you've already sorted out.

Mine does something similar and I suspect injectors. IQ deviation at idle is quite a long way out of spec, but inside the limit Skoda have apparently set for replacement under the 23R6 Trust Building Measure (+/- 2.8 mg/stroke). I'd suggest a diagnostic scan as a first step, preferably with a VAG specific scan tool like VCDS.

No idea, but if you look up Thule Wing Bars, there aren't too many variations. Like I said, you can look up your car on the Thule website and it'll give you a list of compatible products.

FWIW, my Wing Bars came with the 757 foot pack. The bars are 118 cm long.

There's a product selector on the Thule website where you can drill down to your make/model and see what fits. The foot pack is going to vary depending on the bars you choose too.

I think there's some fix for this where the amp has to be disconnected from the battery for half an hour. If you do a search in this section you should be able to find the details.

Why indeed. Perhaps you should ask them? Bear in mind that people who want more power might be willing to sacrifice some reliability, and there are always people ready to be separated from their money for things like this.

It's an increasingly bad idea as a lot of newer engines have been designed around a DMF and the higher shock loading and vibration from a SMF can snap the crankshaft.

No idea. It's not something I've ever felt that bothered about.

I just took a quick look at the wiring diagrams for the stock stereo setup. In the standard setup, the speakers connect directly to the internal amplifier in the head unit through an ISO connector in the quad lock. Each corner gets +/- which is connected to the woofer in the door. The woofer has the crossover built in and the tweeter is connected directly to that in the door. The optional amplifier takes the 8 speaker lines from the ISO connector and does its thing from there.

There are several other connection points in the exhaust system where gases could escape. You'll need to work through them one by one until the culprit is found.

Slide back the driver's seat fully and the Bluetooth module will be on the floor covered with a black plastic cover. Slide the cover forwards to get at the module. Post a pic of the label here when you're done.

I didn't say it was difficult (it isn't really for a competent mechanic with the right tools) just that you need more than just a replacement injector to do this.

Replacing the injector requires seals, clamp, and clamp bolt to be replaced and careful torquing of the clamp bolt.

Perhaps I should have specifically said the Settings menu inside the Bluetooth menu. It's in there somewhere. You can access the setting via the setup menu on the Columbus too.