chimaera

There's also a mod that can be done to change the orientation of the EGR port to reduce future buildup. @3T51704x4 wrote a guide to it here if you do a search.

Go into the setup menu in the MFD and change from 'Premium' to 'Handsfree' mode.

From the service manual for the Superb, manufacturer belt change intervals are: PD: 150000 km for belt, 300000 km for tensioner pulley CR 1st gen (CBBB engine - early CR170): 180000 km for belt, 360000 km for tensioner pulley CR 2nd gen (all other CR engines): 210000 km for belt and tensioner pulley There are no age limits specified. There's a requirement that in dust rich countries the belt is changed at 120000 km on all engines. Individual importers may vary from this as the UK has done. Regarding oil for the PD engines, it depends on whether a DPF is fitted or not. The BXE without a DPF can use 506 01 or 507 00 if it's on flexible service intervals, or 505 01 only on fixed intervals. The BKD without a DPF is not permitted to use flexible service intervals and must use 505 01 on fixed service intervals. The BLS and BMP with DPF can only use 507 00 regardless of service interval (507 00 is a low ash specification which is needed to avoid killing the DPF early with oil ash).

We live in a world where it's quite easy to buy things online when we have enough information about it to find it. It doesn't make commercial sense for the dealer to give you the part number since it makes it easier for you to go and source the part elsewhere. It's a pain in the arse as a consumer but I totally get why they'd be like that. There are a few sites online that have the VAG parts catalogue available to search. The 7zap one posted above is one, oemepc<dot>com is another I've found. Once you get used to how it's laid out it's easy enough to drill down to what you're looking for.

You might be better off looking for a good auto-electrician who is up to date on vehicle technology if you're not sure about doing it yourself. I just checked the Superb manual and yes the AFS master is behind the centre console on the Superb too. Going back to the first post, the mechanic is misunderstanding the system slightly. There's a single sensor on the front and it can throw the 00496 code for open circuit or short to ground. Both stand a good chance of being due to bad wiring. @langers2k is on the money regarding wiring from the wheelarch up: the ABS wheel speed sensor and the ride height sensor share wiring from the wheelarch into the engine bay (and the brakepad wear sensor too). The part number for a replacement harness is 1K0927903J. The replacement part ends in bare wires in the engine bay, so you'll be soldering it if you have to replace it. The front ride height sensor connector is T4ax, and the connector at the controller is T26b. Pin assignments, wire colours & function are: T4ax/1 -> T26b/11, brown, ground T4ax/2 -> T26b/10, black, +5 v T4ax/4 -> T26b/7, blue, signal If you can get a probe on each end of those pairs you can at least check for continuity on the wires and go from there. If you've previously had wiring issues with the ABS wheel speed sensor, then a new harness may be a good idea. A quick search on Google suggests it's not a particularly expensive part (~€60).

The EGR on these engines is not some kind of afterthought as it might have been 20 or 30 years ago. Ditto DPF. Both are tightly integrated into the engine design and operation, and disentangling them completely is difficult. What might have been true 20 years ago is ancient history now when it comes to engine technology.

DPF/EGR delete is a bad idea: the idea that it's "usual" is pub talk. Doing it even passably well will require the hardware to close off both, plus a remap so that the engine management doesn't throw a fit when it finds them missing. Anyone claiming they can do it without a remap are chancers. The main cost of EGR replacement is the 6 hours of labour needed to get to it and get everything back together afterwards. Find a good indy with decent rates and it's not that bad.

You can purchase the Skoda service manuals from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

Unless your Superb has the 3.6 V6 engine, or has been fitted with the bigger brakes from that model, you shouldn't run into brake clearance issues. What you will need to check out is the offset on those 16s and whether this is suitable for your car or not.

The official Skoda spare is a 205/55/16 94V tyre on a 6Jx16 steel rim. If you want an 18" spare you'll have to find the wheel and toolkit individually.

Which is exactly what a failing DMF will be like. One other telltale would be rattling or clunking when initially engaging drive.

Could well be the DMF. What sort of mileage is on it?

If you have bi-xenon with AFS, there's a separate bulb in the foglight housing for DRL. Not sure why you'd want to use the foglight itself as DRL.

Out of curiosity, did they say what the IQA deviation was?

You may need the paid version of the app but it does read out all information related to DPF operation and condition.

If you can do it safely, it might be interesting to measure the sensor resistance when the engine is running. If the sensor is working the value should change while the engine is running. Or if you have VCDS, you can pull up the sensor readout in Advanced Measuring Blocks. I've found issues where a sensor failed at a plausible signal level and never threw a code, but when its output was followed while the engine was running it was completely static when it should have been moving around.

The sensor is a lot cheaper than £325 so I'd suggest starting with replacing that. Cleaning out the DPF will make no difference if the sensor isn't working properly.

Good point, especially since it's the measured value that's so high and that's driven by the sensor reading. A friend of mine with a Superb had the differential pressure sensor fail and it was constantly trying to regen. It did set a fault code though, which doesn't appear to be the case here. The other thought I had on this overnight was the possibility of bad injectors rapidly increasing soot load above normal levels. I'd still have expected dashboard warnings at least once if not twice on the way up to such a high soot loading.

There are chemical processes that can remove the build-up from the filter. The remaining life will be lower than on a new filter but it's much cheaper than a replacement. Also, the part number you mention is a reconditioned exchange part (X at the end): you hand in your old one to be reconditioned and get a discount on the cost compared to a brand new part. TBH if it's mainly soot build-up you could have avoided this as the car will warn you in plenty of time when the soot levels are getting high enough to be a problem. Oil ash is the silent killer of DPFs, soot build up comes with regular orange warning lights on the dash to remind you it'll die if you don't take it for a long drive soon.

Road to axle measurement is meaningless in a car with independent suspension: there is no axle in the sense you're thinking of. What you're looking to do is adjust the distance between the underbody and the road. If you change the distance from hub centre to arch top, you will adjust where the underbody sits relative to the road. Changing the springs is not likely to make much difference if the car is on its original dampers and they're worn out. 2 new dampers are going to cost around the same as springs and are just as straightforward to fit.

There's a compressed gas capsule in the damper which behaves as a spring, alongside it's role in damping spring movement. Like I said, this stuff is more complicated than people think. Air suspension systems that allow ride height adjustment work on all 4 corners to ensure that the vehicle rides at the correct height. Systems that correct the rear only will generally be set up to bring the car back to the correct ride height for that axle, which will be matched to the front.

A lot of people also don't understand the role played by dampers (shocks) in controlling ride height. On higher mileage cars I would suggest that replacing dampers is a better first step than replacing springs when a car has sagged. When I replaced the springs on my car last year, it only added back few mm to the ride height. Replacing the dampers added back around 10 mm though it was still low at that. Towbar and spare wheel are a bit much for weight range 6. On the parts sharing topic, the part might be shared but it's likely to be doing a different job. A spring used for sports suspension in a Golf can become the comfort option in the bigger heavier Superb. As a design engineer I would say that these things are rarely as simple as they might look from reading through a parts catalogue.

Any part number on the invoices?

The engine code/number is normally on a label on the timing cover. Other than that ring any dealers that are listed in the service history and see if any of them know what the story is.

As far as I can make out from the parts catalogue, the components affected by P2015 on the petrol and diesel engines are very different. I'd suggest casting your net wider than just Skoda forums for a possible fix - the engine is probably shared with other VAG group brands. You can find the engine code on the timing chain cover, or on the build label (one copy inside the service book, another in the spare wheel well). Parts catalogue suggests it's CCZA, and a quick google points to it being used across Skoda, Audi, VW at least.