Greybeard

Suggest you move the seat on the rails to the next adjustment "stop" that often cures it but you might have to do the same again back to the original position. Sometimes just moving it back and forth then returning to the original position works too, maybe spreads the lube grease a bit on the floor rails. Same with seat height and back adjustment, the small changes seem to have some effect. Mine varies with temperature and humidity, never been a major problem but like you it was noticeable around the 10k period. Now on 23k and its been OK for a long time. Lots of climatically induced creaks in the Fabia, most cars have their own 'creak fingerprint'! One of those character traits;)

Half of mine shattered or broke partly, pulling the damaged ones out of the door with pliers finishes them off anyway. You might be lucky and they all pop out intact, but I'd still give it a go while the weather is dry, more important to seal the door carrier, the fasteners can be replaced later if you don't have any new ones to hand.

I'd just go ahead and do the job, refit the door trim card without any fastenings. The top of the door, the armrests when they are screwed back on and window winder will all keep things in place until you can get the correct new fasteners. To seal the holes that don't still have a broken fastener in just use some insulating tape temporarily. Once you get the proper fasteners unscrew the armrests, remove window winder and the screw behind the speaker, slide the new fasteners on the door trim and bang the whole lot back together. They're easy to slide on with the card loose. Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to do. If the fastenings you have are the same except for the the rubber washer you could just re-use the washers from ones currently fitted if you really have to get the job done and dusted tomorrow.

The black rubber washers seal the holes that the clips lock into, if left off you can end up with leaks round the fasteners thus defeating the object of all the effort sealing up the door carrier. They retail at 22p each + VAT from Skoda dealers including the rubber sealing washer. You could of course reuse the old rubber seals even if the clips shatter, but you get new ones with the new fasteners anyway so just as well fit those. Not sure if the front doors have identical fastenings but someone on here will confirm in due course hopefully. HTH

This photo shows the detail of the fastener in the "open" position, so you can see how the locking tab slides inside the handle, it engages with the groove in the spline shaft securing the handle to it. Original post only lets you upload 5 photo's.

One of the great advantages for us 'grey surfers' apart from very cheap insurance is that we don't have bother too much any more about hype and can just go with what looks and feels right. We also get more scroogelike every year, but that's another discussion... The vRS is a phenomenal combination, real 'Q' car all round. There are of course faster, sleeker looking, better handling, better built, more economical and spacious cars but nothing quite combines the all round balance of these that vRS does. Value for money, and for entertaining real world driving its up there with the best. Ear to ear every time you get in one!!

Somewhat concerning, most vRS's use little if any oil. I rarely have to top mine up, if its not leaking then there's only one other way out and that's via the exhaust.:( Usual causes as listed above need following up.

Thanks for the feedback, Got 3 from a local trade parts specialist and with a 'collection only' consumables discount they're running, were only £1.10p each incl VAT. Had a number of other bits to get as well so came as part of a 'bulk buy'. Have read that on some engine parts, Ford dealers can also be very cheap for the common VAG parts used in PD130 engine units that Ford fitted to some of the Galaxy people carrier's.

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread but having received the benefit of this guidance after much scratching of head to work out how the winder was secured, I thought the attached photo's might assist others. Given the current incessant amount of rain and consequent number of leaking rear door carriers, I think many others will face the same :confused: dilemma. ATB

Could any kind soul out there confirm please if the attached 19mm sump plug photo looks like correct item for the vRS, before I take the old fitted one out on a Sunday morning and find the new one doesn't fit. Has a steel washer rather than the copper/composite types, presumably relying on the steel biting into the softer seating face on the Aluminium sump to create a seal? Should be correct item but the part number given elsewhere in the excellent guide threads on the forum shows a part number N90813201. Having obtained this one, although from a most reliable source, they advised the VAG part number has now changed to N90813202. Just wanted to confirm it looked right with fellow Briskodian's who have done your own changes already. This'll be the first on a vRS, although certainly not the first I've done, and am not yet familiar with the parts detail. Many thanks

Wickes or whatever DIY is closest to you, exterior silicon sealant usually £5-£7. A few new plastic clips/fasteners - the proper skoda ones WITH rubber sealing washers are only 22p each +VAT. Did mine at the weekend, all dry now. To stop the water coming in temporarily, tape around all four edges of the rear door windows with black insulating tape, make sure the glass and rubber edging is clean (wipe with meths) and stick the tape to the glass and rubber not your paintwork. Use black tape and it won't stand out. That should keep any more water from getting in. Remeber that you won't be able to wind the windows down though! Take a look again at the recent threads on leaky doors etc, there's loads of good stuff. It seems this continual wet weather has caused every Fabia in the land that hadn't already been sealed to start leaking.

Its worth buying some clips from a Skoda dealer before you start but no the end of the world if you don't. Part number is 'Clip' 6Y0867260 and they are only £0.22p each plus VAT, if your dealer is any distance away get them sent by post to save you the drive time and fuel cost. Even if you can't get them before hand the trim will still go back on as it hangs over the top edge of the door and with the window winder and the 3 screws holding it in place will still function fine, the edges will be loose that's all. You could then go get the clips/fasteners then undo the screws again, lift the trim off and fit the new clips. Its the clip/fasteners that lock the whole thing in place. There are 7 or 8 holding the trim in place and 4 of mine shattered but 3 or 4 were OK. Once you have all the screws out and the handle off its just a case of someone holding the door and you giving the door card a good strong yank! Getting behind the edge of the trim without scratching the paint was a bit tricky so I used my good lay's thick but taper edged teflon spatula from the kitchen - the one you use for turning fried eggs/susages etc. If you agree to do the washing up it buys a few favours! You may need to lever the top edge of the door card off its location edge by the window glass using a thin piece of wood or tyre lever wrapped in rag to stop it scratching the paint under the trim (if you do you won't see it anyway once the trims back on). Put the lever through the aperture where the speaker mounts but go easy so you don't break the plactic speaker surround. HTH

Seconded:thumbup: Phenomenal combination, real 'Q' car all round. There are of course faster, sleeker looking, better handling, more economical and spacious cars but nothing quite combines the all round balance of these that vRS does. Ear to ear every time you get in one!!

Sealed the rear drivers side on mine this Sunday. Good dose of wet stuff today and seems to have worked. Couple of pounds for half a dozen new plastic fasteners, & £6 worth of Wickes finest black external silicone sealant (will do all 4 doors). Dried out the residual wet in the sponge felt gasket with a bit of pressure, some absorbent kitchen roll and finished off with the Mrs hair dryer for good measure (Aluminium conducts heat really well). Not a long or difficult job, once you've worked out how everything comes off. Only 5 months out of warranty but not worth the effort to argue, would cost me more in time and diesel backwards and forwards to the dealers. Worst bit was working out how to get the damn manual window winder handle off. Plenty of descriptions on here but no photo's. Its a great design concept when you finally work it out, but I'll post some photo's later - hopefully save others a bit of head scratching. To stop the water coming in short term, black insulating tape around all 4 sides of the rear window glass works a treat, just keep the tape on the glass and rubber - it can damage your paint if left on there a while but keeps the rain out completely until dry enough to put the sealant around the carrier plate inside the door.

Photo's mentioned above are in this post:- http://briskoda.net/fabia-i/choice-3-tyres-but-best-all-rounder/122050/#post1423325

My OEM Michelin Pilot Primacy's were smooth and quiet enough in my view, lasted around 23k with fronts moved to back around 4k (when I bought the car) then left as is. Had a bit of life left in them too when replaced last week, but were getting a little weary down at 2-3mm. I built up the same list, Rainsport's, F1 Eagles, Toyo's, Kuhmo's etc. and the expensive Pilot Exalto's. Decided to try the Exalto's as quality manufacturer, good all rounder tyre with positive reports. I believe you generally get what you pay for. Hopefully the investment will keep me on the road and in this life, to see the spring again after those dark December nights beating up the motorways at very close to legal limits through the horizontal icy rain:thumbup: If your interested in the price research, see attached thread. http://briskoda.net/fabia-i/uniroyal...raders/121927/ Photo of fitted Exalto also attached fyi. So far after few hundred miles am happy with the expenditure, pretty quiet and smooth riding (they're new after all). I've read the Conti's can be quite noisy but have no direct experience with them.

I've driven a lot of rental cars in the course of my business activities some just a few hundred miles old, and also amongst them some Skoda's. Virtually every one has, if you listen hard, exhibited some kind of low rumble from the transmission at idle in neutral. This disappears when you depress the clutch because the rotating elements in the drive train change when the clutch is depressed and also the clutch thrust bearing comes under tension so any clearances are taken up. Everything has an operating clearance even when new or it would sieze up. If the release bearing is making a lot of noise with the clutch depressed then it probably will need replacing, but I'd err on the side of your dealer if he's had a look at it, unless the bearing's screeching when you dpress the clutch pedal! Depends of course on the kind of use its been subjected to but they usually last quite some time. Ive never had to replace one or had one go in more than 30 years of driving - either been doing something right or must've just been lucky!!

Guess I've just joined the club too after..... Had a good look again at mine, so far they've been no problem since March 05 but with the continuous periods of rain not letting up recently my door cards are now damp and water is sitting on the seal/inner plastic trim. Carpet feels OK at the moment but will have to attempt a sealng job on the carrier by the look of it. Hope it dries out enough in the next few days to give the sealer a chance of adhering properly, you can wipe the suraces clean with degreaser but there's still the water trapped in the foam sponge behind the carrier that can seep out. Don't fancy a re-riveting job unless its absoultely necessary!

This happens with a lot/most 4/5 door cars if one of the rear windows is down, my old Pug 405 was very prone to it and the Fabia vRS is worse (maybe smaller cabin volume = potentially higher air pressure for given speed). Various hire cars I've had also exhibit same to varying degrees. Open another window or request very kindly that the little darlings shut the rear window in question please. (Politically correct version - may in practice be worded slightly differently by harassed/stressed out parent.)

Michelins for low wear, just put some Exalto PE2's on to replace the OEM Primacy's at around 23k, although they'd have gone on to 25k+ if I'd fancied living dangerously.:eek: Will see how this later design compares with the older one, just have to suspend the Sky subscription for a couple of months to fund the difference between them and the Kuhmo's/Nexen's/F1's/Toyo options etc. From what I read of others experiences these are supposed to grip, wet, dry, summer and winter unlike some others that have lasted forever but made for an exciting time in the rain!

Tom, I can get 48" (1220mm) long items to fit front to back and 36" (915mm) without any trouble widthways. Tilting will help but the tailgate aperture is still only around 1100mm 'across corners' so I don't think you'll get it in either way round unfortunately. If you know someone your way with roof bars they're not too much of a job to fit temporarily, but you'd probably be better off finding someone with a bigger car/van!

My OEM Michelin Pilot Primacy's lasted around 23k with fronts moved to back around 4k (when I bought the car) then left as is. Had about 2-3mm left on fronts and 3mm or so on rears after 31/2 years so decided to renew as winter is coming! I was looking for same and my list ended up as Rainsport's, F1 Eagles and Pilot Exalto's. Decided to try the Exalto's as quality manufacture, good all rounder tyre with good reports. If your interested in the price research, see attached thread. http://briskoda.net/fabia-i/uniroyal-michelin-online-traders/121927/ Photo of fitted Exalto also attached fyi.

Needed some new rubber for my 4 std alloys and after checking all the good info on here and other forums, decided on 3 options then did the ring rounds and online searches. Thought I'd share the current research with y'all. Not seeking out and out grip, but a quiet running, good wearing premiium quality manufacturer with decent all round performance in what passes for summer & the other 9 even colder and 'wetter' months. I decided on Pilot Exalto PE2's, Uniroyal Rainsport 2's or Eagle F1 GS-D3's (probably not so good in the cold but was tempted) 205/45/16's. Looked at 10 internet based prices, and 11 local suppliers:- UNIROYALS - 8/10 locals couldn't get them or didn't list, one said they were on back order until April 2009 of the other 2 one was £500, the other a more reasonable £390 but needed to order. Tyre-shopper were best price at £356 and had 10 in stock. Only 2 online prices for W rated, one other was V rated only, the rest didn't list Uniroyals. EAGLE F1's - All 18 had in stock or to order within 24 hrs, cheapest (local specialist) was £330, most expensive ATS at £480. Online prices all dearer than the local fitted £330 if you included fitting cost. EXALTO PE2's - All claimed to have available but none of the locals had stock. Most expensive was National tyres at £500, cheapest locally was HiQ believe it or not at £436 but after asking them to order claimed they were on back order with no delivery date available. Cheapest online was C-Tyres at £431.60, most expensive MyTyres at £487.60. In the end Protyre in Poole (owned by Micheldever I believe) got 4 PE2's next day and fitted them at £437. Look like quality tyres, time will tell if they were worth the money! Not sure why the Uniroyals are apparently shunned by all, plenty of support for them on this forum but a lot of the posts aren't recent. The F1's probably weren't what I wanted, because rare as it is down here, they have plenty of snow and ice in those distant lands to the far north of Watford which is where I spend some of my time these days. So, Uniroyals are apparently not widely available, online trader prices aren't always cheapest and if you like Michelins (made in Germany by the way) you have to pay dearly for them!

Have used BP Ultimate Diesel constantly since 2005, then earlier this year tried some Shell V Power, and more recently due to time constraints and availability a few tankfulls of Sainsburys City Diesel stuff (now with shiny black nozzles instead of the dirty Yellow ones!). Gone back to BP Ultimate diesel over the last 3 weeks though. To be honest I've seen absolutely no difference in either fuel consumption or performance between the three, and each of the fuels still chuck out diesel fog on the twice weekly (or more) Italian tune ups. Trips are usually several hundered miles mostly motorway and in between a few short traffic clogged commutes. The only noticeable difference I've observed is that on the Sainsbury stuff it rattles like a hot secretary's stillettos on a steel floorplate, the Shell V power less so but the BP Ultimate is smoothest and quietest diesel thrum of all. I guess there may be something in the claim that BP Ultimate diesel has a higher Cetane rating, as this is what inhibits knock in diesel fuel, bit like pinking and the low/high octane petrols. Whether the 'hydrocarbon' soundproofing is worth the extra 10p+ per litre or not is a matter of personal choice and pocket depth, but I thought the comparisons was interesting.

Used to see 300 miles a tank if lucky on local short commute, then started doing 500mile round trips over 2-3 days. Mostly motorway, averaging 65mph ish on the computer, showing 53-55 mpg but sometimes 60-62 on slow sections. My trip computer reads pretty good, have checked it a few times against brim to brim. Fuel price hikes encourage 'innovative' driving. This week saw 620 miles, around 500 actual with 120 remaining on trip computer at end of journey so I guess thats 620miles a tank. On long steady motorway drives the 130PD really comes into its own. As many people on here have said. the fuel economy really improves once the engine sees around 20,000 miles and has loosened up nicely. Expansion tank helps a good deal, and now with no sign of a 35 degree spell of weather until July 2009 it seems the expansion tank is redundant for the time being anyway, so lets use the extra capacity!!