Stubod

...I'm not sure what a pure hybrid is either!!.....I think I meant "self charging" as opposed to plug in. At work we use the Honda CRV self charge hybrid and we are lucky if we get 33 mpg, and we can't even get off the carpark before the ICE kicks in, so I don't really see the point? Also they use the truly awful CV transmission which seems to sap power and makes it seem like you are slipping the clutch all the time! For me, at this moment in time it's only going to be conventional ICE, then maybe full electric at some point in the future.

Probably a thread in its own right, but I am not a great fan of pure hybrids as I can't get my head around using an IC engine to charge a battery to power a car? I can't believe that you get that much of a boost from regenerative braking, and most people I know who have them don't seem to get any better economy than a straight IC powered car. I manage 44mpg out of the AWD Yeti, and our other car is a 1.5 petrol (Mazda), that averages 55mpg. OK I accept fuel economy is mainly down to driving style and the type of journey you are doing. I can see the value of a plug in hybrid if you are doing regular shortish trips, and I can also see the benefit of all electric cars now they are getting 100+ miles. But I can't help thinking that a straight hybrid is a bit of a con to meet some arbitrary government emissions target....a bit like Stop / Start?...but that's just me....

Hi, and yes I did reset it, but garage advised it would need a short drive before it went off, which it did initially but then came back on around 15 miles when all the all the other lights also came on? Got home and turned the engine off. waited then re-started and they had all gone off again, not yet been out today but I will check to see if they are still off later.

Ta for the reply. I expected a lot of lights on start up, but was surprised that initially there were no lights except as just the tyre pressure light which did go out after about a mile. But then they all came on after I had driven about 15 miles? Anyway, I will try another drive today and see if they remain off.

Had our Yeti (1.4 AWD) for just over 3 years, and despite giving the battery a top up charge every so often, it appears to be failing. From "new" the battery never seemed to get much over 12v (multimeter check), and was regularly seen around 11.5 volts but it never failed to start? I had heard stories that a new battery would have to be "programed" to the car, (ours has the rather pointless Stop / Start system fitted), and had I had seen some eye watering costs of £250, from main dealers for the privilege. Although disappointing that I needed to fit a new battery after a (relatively) short time, I have gone ahead and got our local indy dealer to fit a new one. A "standard" Yeti battery is around the £70, for the S/S version they charged £140 which I am happy with, (although would rather no S/S and a cheaper battery option!). It took them about 5 mins to fit, with no reprogramming necessary, just unbolt and re-fit. Interestingly the S/S system which had hardly ever worked from when I had the car started to work as soon as I got to the first junction. (I will now have to remember to switch the damn thing off when I get into the car!). For some reason, after about 15 miles and almost home most of the "yellow" warning lights lit up, with a few "text" warnings on the MFD display? (Light symbol, tyre warning stability control and maybe a couple of others I can't remember) When I arrived home I turned everything off, checked the tyre pressures (just in case.....they were al fine), and then popped out for another short run when all the lights went out? Just wonder if there is any reason for this or is it just the system "sorting itself out"? (I would have expected it to be a problem from the "off", rather than suddenly appearing after a good run?)

H

...yes an Arona was originally on my "next car" list as well as VW T-Roc, Audi Q2, Skoda Kamiq, Volvo XC40, Mazda CX30.....

..Karoq is too big for me, I may have a look at a Kamiq, but I don't consider this to be a true replacement to the Yeti, and it does not seem to be that much taller than a "normal" saloon / hatchback? Also fancied a change after 4 Skoda's over the last 16 years!

Hi all, Sorry that I am resurrecting an old post regarding Yeti alternatives. I intended to sell early last year and posted regarding suitable alternatives. Suffice to say these plans all got put on hold when covid struck. Despite only doing about 3k miles since last year my thoughts have turned once more to finding a suitable replacement. My preference at the mo is still a Vitara auto simply as I can't really seem to find anything more suitable, (although I could be tempted by a Volvo XC40 or Mazda CX30, but these seem a costly option to get a decent spec). Just out of interest I put my details into WBAC. and the value (they are offering) for my current Yeti has actually gone up, and is pretty much the same as they were offering last year!

I was quoted around £650...(Local indy garage)

..was looking to change my Yeti last year pre covid, (had it for 2 years, but still only 24k miles). However I simply can't find anything to replace it with!.... ..been looking at:- Suzuki Vitara (still my preferred choice), Suzuki S-Cross Seat Arona VW T Roc Mazda cx30 Peugeot 2008 Volvo XC40 Ford Puma Skoda Kamiq Audi Q2 ..but I still prefer the Yeti for all round performance, economy and practicality.... I was even thinking about a newer 1.2 Yeti, but they are 4+ years old now....

..electric handbrake??...another solution for a problem that doesn't exist?

With the amount of reports for this problem I am surprised there isn't some sort of class/group action option available. There must be lots of evidence by now to prove its a design/manufacturing fault, and I think there is some law that states even after the warranty has expired a product must still meet certain criteria?

..I seem to remember that was mentioned in an earlier thread, and assuming you can "wrap" glass then it would appear to be a good long term fix once the switch has been deactivated..if mine ever needed doing I would prefer that to a £2.5k "cost to fix it!

...clear Gorilla tape over the glass sunroof and up to the edge of the "rubber" seal, (ie keep off the paintwork) will work fine as a temporary fix while waiting for the weather to improve......

...as per my previous comments on exactly this subject, I am surprised that somebody hasn't come up with this as a professional "fix"? I would think either a suitably (off the shelf) sealing strip and a dollop of appropriate sealant would be fine. Then just need to figure out which wires to disconnect? I think I have only opened my roof twice in 3 years of ownership, but love the extra light you get from a glass roof. A colleague has a Nissan Kumquat and that has a "fixed" glass roof...

..to be honest this potential problem is a real shame. Brilliant car, good drive, practical and economical, such a shame that a few suffer this problem....been thinking about changing mine for a while but can't really find anything else that comes close....

...I think my voltmeter is OK....I also checked our other car which is fairly new (thankfully not a stop start model), and that normally shows around 13.2 volts when fully charged. I also have a couple of those digital readouts plugs that you put into your cigarette socket and both of them show a similar reading (+/- 0.1v). Not sure mine has any brake regeneration system?! Not had chance to check the BME code as it's rather cold and snowing outside at the mo!! ..and thanks for the feedback.. It's a shame that manufacturers make something as simple as changing a battery into something so complex!!

ta for the info..I will check the battery tomoz!!!

Hi and thanks for the reply. Just contacted one local tyre/battery indy and they can't do it if Stop/Start, but another local indy has said no problems as they maintain a charge to the system while they change it (?)...more or less same price as Halfords for the battery but the indy price includes fitting. (Both quoting AGM batteries). I am not sure whether my battery is OK or not, it has always read "low", around 11.7 volts but always starts up ok? (Stop Start hardly ever worked from original purchase when the caar was 2 years old). Put it on charge today and after 1.5 hrs "green light" on smart charger says it's full. Measured on voltmeter at 12.5 vols, but seems to start dropping straight away. Left it for a couple of hours and re-checked and it had dropped to 12.05v, but no sign of any further short term drop. I normally put back on charge every 10 days or so at which point it still seems to show around 11.7v before I connect the charger? Regardless i will be waiting until after lockdown before any new purchase...

Hi all, may need to get a new battery when lockdown ends. Car is a 2015 1.4tsi (AWD / Stop Start). Halfords are advertising an AGM replacement for around £160?.... Is it easy to DIY.....or would anything need "re-programming" when fitted. I have replaced "simple" batteries before, but this battery seems a little more complicated. (NB Halfords offer to fit for £25). Just wondering what others recommend? Many thanks for any replies...

..for a quick /temp fix, or until the weather is good enough for a proper fix you could just get some clear Gorrila tape (£10 odd), and apply to the glass part of the sunroof and just take it over the rubber seal...ie not onto the paintwork. Just remember not to try and open the sunroof afterwards!!

..taking to the press will achieve nothing. Known ongoing problem, (same as the occasional DSG problems), that Skoda have never acknowledged as being their design / manufacturing problem, (which it clearly is)..

..amazing that Skoda never seem to own up to what is clearly a design / manufacturing problem...there must be enough evidence by now surely? Not had a problem with mine, but during the annual service I did get our local "indy" to strip out the roof lining and "glue" all the drain pipes in place just in case. (He found one that was "restricted" were the factory had over tightened one of the retaining cable ties so I got that one replaced). Also wondered if anybody had thought about an aftermarket option to remove the "moving" option and fit "fixed" roof in place that could be sealed in place and would be a lot cheaper than replacing the whole unit. (Personally I like the glass roof, but hardly ever bother to open it).

..have you considered the petrol version?...150hp and almost as torquey as a diesel, although probably not as economical, but no DPF worries...what mileage do you do?