Stubod

..the Gorilla tape is plenty wide enough, in fact the first time I used it I actually cut the role in half (with a bandsaw), and it was still plenty wide enough. Also if you are sticking it to the paintwork it should actually hold better?...maybe worth using meths or similar to insure the "sticking" area is free of wax etc?..... NB it only took about 15 mins to do, but you do need some small ladders or a step to get up to the roof!

...although mine did not leak, (2015 L&K), I got paranoid and simply applied clear Gorrilla tape, (£10 a role and it will probably do at least 2). It lasted a good 2 years before I decided to do it again as the tape had started to lift on the edges. NB I only put the tape from the glass to the rubber seal...ie not over the actual roof paintwork, I used seperate strips for the back, front and middle joint, and 2 stips "per side". (Makes replacing any that come lose easier). You can then remove the fuse, but this will make the blind inoperable as well. (I did not bother but I was concerned in case somebody (wife?) forgot and tried to twiddle the knob!) At that age and mileage it is certainly not worth spending that sort of money....also made a note to self to never buy a car with a pan / sunroof again. (Don't know why Skoda did not make a permanent "seal kit" as an option, but then again they never will admit it is a design / manufacturing issue when it clearly is....

..used to put our 2 bikes in the Yeti laid flat, rear seats removed, front (bike) wheels removed....

..no, just did not like the look of the Honda....their styling does not float my boat...

..I looked a all your above choices but ruled them out for various reasons, Seat Arona was nice but felt a little "cheap/basic", also did not fancy another VAG offering, Ford Puma has the 1.0 ltr engine (I think?), and they have had reliabilty issues with that, also seemed a little smaller in size due to the "funky" shape. I also tried the Mazda variants which were a great drive and really felt "quality", but a rather gutless (non turbo) engine and long "snout" put me off. I did like the Suzuki Vitara, but at the time they were not doing an auto box (on the hybrid), but would have happily brought one otherwise. Also quite liked the VW T-cross, but fairly low grade interior and again a VAG. Audi Q2 was also nice, but a bit steep price wise, (and another VAG). All in all my first choice would probably have been the Toyota Yaris Cross as this seemed to give the right mix of size, quality, price and 10 yr guarantee if serviced by Toyota, but saying that I am more than happy with the Niro and will probably be my next choice as and when I change, (although the new model Niro is a bigger car which I don't really like?).

.....I loved the Yaris Cross, I had a test drive as I really don't like CVT's but the Yaris seems to have got around this problem by having "fixed" gears, and it certainly seemed OK to me during the test drive. I would have happily got one had it not been for the 9 month wait. The Niro appeared on my radar via a Which report and after a test drive I was quite impressed and our local dealer had a pre reg one with just 20 miles on the clock with the first 2 years servicing included. I would have prefered the level "3", but I am more than happy with the "poverty" spec level "2". I would not buy another car that was not "auto", with adaptive cruise and a rear parking camera!! All in all the Yeti is a tough act to folllow and I always said if they still made them it would have been a no brainer to buy another, but after driving the Niro I am not so sure...?

I think that if this is your first problem in 12 years you are doing well! As to whether your problems are now starting, who knows? Our yeti started "playing up" after abut 5 years, (wheel sensors, battery, nothing serious), but I was always concerned about the potential for the pan roof to start leaking. I did not have dsg, but really fancied an auto so I started searching and (as per previous posts) I looked at pretty much every other small SUV but nothing really compared to a Yeti. I was going to get a Yaris Cross but at the time there was a 9 month waiting list. Eventually ended up with a Kia Niro PHEV which I really like, (previous model). Not quite as practical or roomy as the Yeti but a nice drive, comfortable, more economical and a 7 year warranty.

NB they also recommend you change the water pump at the same time aas this is even more likely to fail and it is (relatively) cheap to do it while they are accessing the cambelt...

I think officially it's 5 years, but my local Indy advised it should be fine up to 70k, (my car only had 30k miles). I think if I had kept it I would have probably changed it at 6/7 years anyway, regardless of miles as too much of a risk? (I also had a Mazda that only ever specified a similar mileage, regardless of age).

The 1.4 engine is a peach. I had the 122 hp in an Octavia, and the 150hp variant in a Yeti (L&K). I averaged over 40mpg (actual) with the Yeti over the 4 years I had it. Simply loved the car, had a "minor" problem with the sunroof which was cured by replacing a "kinked" drain pipe, and then gluing them all in position. However it was alway a concern after reading some of the issues some members on the forum have had. After reading all the stuff regarding the 1.8 engine problems I would never consider buying one, and if I was buying another Yeti I would also now avoid one with a sunroof. Problem is I think the "later" 1.4's are all L&K spec which come with a pan roof as standard, (mine was a 2015 model), not sure about the spec of the "older" 1.4 models. Before I changed the Yeti I did try a 1.2 as I really fancied an auto and I found the 1.2 a perfectly acceptable drive, but in the end I really wanted something newer and the 2nd hand prices where getting silly particularly for the last of the 2017 cars... ...good luck in hunt, but if you can I would stay away from the 1.8, and ideally anything with a pan roof, (IMHO). Only problem is Yeti's do seem to be at a premium so prices are still a bit on the silly side?

..well after 2 years of looking I finally took the plunge in July and got a Niro (2) Self charging hybrid. Ended up buying "new" as I was struggling to find any 2nd hand ones at a sensible price, (some of the 1 year old ones were virtually the same price as a new one!). I would have liked a higher spec (level 3), but again could not find any, (they now have a new model out). I was extremely sceptical about "self charging" hybrids and thought they were just a gimmick, but I have been proved wrong as so far I have averaged 65mpg (actual), compared to around 40mpg (actual) with my Yeti, (1.4Tsi AWD). What do I like about the Niro?.....fuel economy, auto box, adaptive cruise control, reversing camera, soft/comfortable ride, OK space and a 7 year warranty. (All items I would now want on any replacement). What do I miss about the Yeti?....More practical/space (removable seats), "solid / quality" feel, heated seats, but what I don't miss is the continual worry that the sunrrof might leak, and VAG's reluctance to accept any responsibility/costs for some basic design/manufacturing problems. Originally I said that if they still made the Yeti I would probably have bought another one, but after owning a Niro I am now not so sure I would, and I will certainly be considering another Niro as and when I change the current one, (although hopefully not for a few years yet?). All in all, I am well pleased with my final decision to get a Niro and have no regrets. Over 2 years of looking I had considered, (and test driven):- Suzuki Vitara, (my original favourite), Seat Arona, VW T-Cross, Mazda CX 30, Toyota Yaris Cross, (which I may well have bought, but 10 months waiting list put me off, and after a test drive the Niro felt nicer).

..I think his point was that the water pump replacement is "relatively" low cost if you are doing the cambelt (ie parts ony), if you change it at the same time as you almost get the labour cost "for free" while doing the cambelt. Otherwise you end up with another rather large labour charge if you end up replacing the pump at a later date??

...I was advised by my local indy that the 1.4 engine should have the water pump replaced at the same time as these can fail before the timing belt??? (ie leak). Iwas quoted around £650 for the lot. He also advised the cambelt was good for at least 70k miles regardless of age and on my last 2 services advised as I had only done 30k total it was not needed, (car was 7 years old). However if I had kept the car I would have had it done at this years service regardless of miles...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/25mm-Bike-Frame-Protection-Tape/dp/B09J3TYHGL ..this could be it??

I don't think mine leaked after I had the drain pipes glued on, but rather than risk it I tapped it up anyway, (just in case...got a bit paranoid about the implications of a leak). I used clear Gorrilla tape and only taped it to the edge of the black seal, (ie no tape on the paintwork). It was on for about 2 years and was just starting to lift in a couple of areas. I removed all the tape before I sold it, took a while to get the residue (glue) off, but used some meths to clean it off it. A real shame that VW did not recognise the problem and as a minimum provides a one off "sealing" option. I think I only ever opened the roof once or twice before taping it up, but I liked the idea of a glass roof even if it didn't open.

..the battery in mine was "iffy" for the last 2 years of it's life, never seemed to get much above 12 volts even after charging, (started at around 11.5), but it never failed to start even when left for 2 weeks while on holiday...my money is on the battery, (paticularly if it's the same age and make as my original Moll battery).

..I had this problem when I first got my Yeti, (2015 model, 2 years old and low mileage). The SS hardly ever seemed to work except after a (very) long journey. Did not really bother me as I think SS is a waste of space and doesnt really achieve anything. However after a few more years I needed to replace the battery and our local indy advised me that the battery I had in the car (from new), was considered a "bad make", (forget the make), that was fitted to this era of Yeti. I fitted a new battery and the SS then worked nearly every time I stopped, (very annoying as I had to keep remembering to turn it off!).

..very true, and one of the reasons I gave up looking for a "newer" Yeti, particularly as I wanted an auto and was concerned about some of the problems being reported, (admittedly very low case numbers, but very expensive to fix if you were one of the unlucky ones). I was not bothered about AWD as again these can be problematic on older cars if the "correct" servicing has not been carried out. Likwise I would not want a pan roof again for similar reasons, particularly on older cars. The current cars are overpriced and combined with even the youngest ones getting on for 6 years old, and all my previous Skoda's had all started to cost money around that age and it seems that WAG will not accept any liability for even design/manufacturing faults outside of the normal warranty period...

..problem is that when I see a car in the condition as the one advertised I just walk away as it says to me that the owner doesn't really care? Also note that the advert says "good condition", which raises expectations when it clearly isn't (IMHO). However I accept that some mingers can be polished up to look great so you are seeing the car "as it is", while most cars can be polished up nicely if the exterior is basically sound, the interior is normally the give away if the car has had a hard life. For me it would need to have the full service history, drive well with everthing working AND looking good...but that's just me. Also as cars are currently silly price levels I would expect a high level of finish. When I first thought about selling mine (pre covid), the WBAC price as around £12k, 2+ years later I part exchanged it for £14,750. During those years the price peaked at £17k which is not far off what I paid for it, and is currently about what the car is being advertised at. By now I would have realistically expected it to be around £9k, but then the car I was buying should probably be a couple of grand less...so swings and roundabouts. Will be interesting to see what happens when / if things get back to normal and second had car prices return to a more realistic level, and also how the car dealers who have large stocks at inflated prices will manage this? ...answers on a post card....

...would certainly out me off....would not even bother going to view it!!

..try giving Phil a call at Overton Skoda near Ludlow on 01584 872584....(he doesn't do web sites), and should be well within your 150 mile radius.....

..mine has just appeared at a Skoda garage in Mansfield priced at only £250 less than I paid for it 4.5 yers ago.....crazy prices!! Not sure who would want to pay £17k for a 7.5 year old car?? ..generally a nice car, 30k miles with new tyres and battery but probably needs a new cam belt by now...

...as compenstion the Niro is an auto, currently giving 70+mpg with a 7 year warranty and adaptice cruise control which is great!....and it's actually quite a nice car!...definately the right choice (for me) as a Yeti replacement...

..oops, you may well be right. I know you can take off the cover on the passenger, (Left, UK) side, and can see evidence of corrosion if there is any...(I was just about to go out and check but then I remembered I sold the car last week....dohhh...)

Ref the pan roof, I understand there are 2 potential problems. One is the 4 drain pipes can either become detached, or may be "kinked" which restricts the amount of water that can escape. I had this problem on mine and the fix was to remove the lining, replace the squashed pipe and then "glue/seal" all the pipes in place. The other is a crack in the frame that allows water ingress into the car. A good way to check if the car has had a leak is to remove the fuse box cover, (passenger side at the side of the dashboard), and see if there is any evidence of rust? There is an ongoing thread on this forum regarding "pan roof leaks, casuses and cure" which is quite detailed in how to (potentially) repair the crack problem using a sealant. I got a bit paranoid as I did not want to wake up one day to a car with wet carpets as it is quite a big job to get the interior dried out and the leak repaired, so I used clear Gorilla tape which I put between the glass and the rubber seals, ie not on the paintwork. This tape remained in place for the best part of 2 years when I would have replaced it if I had not sold it. Apart from that a great car, (as most will testify), and very practical. I did not fancy a diesel so I had the 1.4 petrol version.