piggoy

Hi guys, I've been using the following app from the Android play store - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bluetooth.vagerasedtcall&hl=en_GB It works with my el cheapo ELM327 bluetooth clone and allows me to collect to all the ECUs in my 2011 Skoda Yeti, not just the engine ECU via the mandatory OBD2. It doesn't have anywhere near the capability of VCDS, no measuring blocks or adaption values, but it can certainly read and clear fault codes on all the ECUs including airbag, ABS, central electrics, HVAC etc. Definitely worth a look!

Thanks, I will have a look as soon as I'm able. Ive been reading similar to you about the new oil separation system on CR engine. I've also read that the PD engines are particularly bad for oil misting in the CCV due to the tandem pump. The tandem pump is lubricated by oil from the head and vents the air collected by the vacuum system into the airspece under the rocker cover and out of the CCV, therefore transferring a lot of oil with it. CR engines just have a simple vacuum only pump driven by the camshaft.

I agree, the CCV blow-by is nasty. Once difference between PD and CR that I am aware of is the EGR diversion occurs after the DPF in the CR engine, and the PD has no DPF. So the soot content of the EGR may be significantly lower in the CR. But I say "may" with scepticism since there have been many cases of blocked EGR coolers on CR engine and the thing is a bugger to remove since it's now mounted on the back.

Hi guys, I know this is not the right forum for this topic but my migration to the Yeti forum has so far proved fruitless :-) .. and there tend to be a lot of tech heads on this forum who may be able to answer my question :-) I recently traded in my beloved mk1 Fabia vRS for a Yeti with a 2.0 CR engine. One of the most popular mods on the PD engined vRS is the CCV mod or Elephant hose mod. For the uninitiated this mod diverts the CCV vent into a catch can or more simply into the atmosphere directly. It prevents the build up of the dreaded black death gunge in your EGR valve and intake manifold by preventing the undesirable mix of oil vapour with soot from the EGR. It also prevents your turbo and intercooler from becoming saturated with oil. On the newer CR engines there is both an EGR system and CCV operating a much a similar way. So I've been thinking why not implement the same mod in my Yeti, surely it can't do any harm. But I cannot find any reference anywhere on the web to anyone implementing such a modification on a CR diesel engine. Am I missing something? Would this be ill advised?

If the EGR diversion is after the DPF then the amount of soot in the recycled exhaust gas should be significantly reduced compared to a non-DPF engine like the PD. Good news I guess. Thanks for all your help :-)

Thanks ;-) That really helps. Just looks like one EGR valve then, a lot simpler than the diagram I posted above. Where is the exhaust diverted from, before or after the DPF? My concern regarding oil vapour mixing with soot still holds, but it looks like the black sludge can only form from (1) onwards therefore clogging the intake manifold only. I am still confused why non-one has implemented the CCV mod for CR engines. Surely not having the oil vapour and blow-by gasses going into the intake at all must be a good thing?

Cheers muddyboots, Do you have the link?

Thanks Muddyboots, After doing some research I believe these engines have two EGR valves, described as low and high pressure. See diagram below. The low pressure EGR and its cooler are the unit at the back of the engine; it diverts exhaust from just after the DPF and feeds it into the intake just behind the turbo. The high pressure doesn't have a cooler and passes exhaust directly from the exhaust manifold to the intake through a passage in the cylinder head that you describe. The "throttle" in the diagram above is actually the ASV. My concerns relate to the mixing of oil vapour from the CCV with soot from the recycled exhaust, this is what causes the dreaded black death gunge in the PD engines. From the diagram above that is lilely to happen from before the turbo onwards, i.e. from where the LP EGR is introduced, therefore potentially coating the turbo, the intercooler, the ASV, the HP EGR valve and the the intake manifold with the dreaded gunge. The LP EGR, its cooler and HP EGRs passage thru the cyclinder head should be free from gunge since no oil vapour has been introduced at this point. The formation of the black gunge was a real concern for PD engines hence loads of enthusiasts have implemented the CCV mod (the elephant hose mod). But I cannot find any reference on any VAG related forum for anyone interested in doing it on a CR engine. Why? Seems a sensible desision for any TDI engine, whether PD or CR.

Hey guys, I recently traded in my beloved mk1 Fabia vRS for a Yeti Elegance (2011, 2.0 CR TDI, 107hp). So far I'm really pleased with it, the level of luxury and apparent quality surpasses everything I've had before. It's really comfortable and drives surprisingly well for a top heavy lump! I have some questions that I hope people can help me with. VAG "emissions" recall I recently went on the Skoda website to see if my car had been recalled for its emission fix and it indeed was retuned to Skoda by the previous owner about 6 months ago. I just wanted to get opinion on whether people here feel the corrective actions has affected the performance, fuel economy or reliability of their car? Personally if I had the option I would have not accepted the work worried that something would be adversely affected for the sake of improving emissions. Posts on other websites seem to indicate no difference, although some concern does linger on reliability regarding premature blocking of the EGR and DPF. Any opinions? Crankcase breather system (PCV system) bypass? On my old PD engined Fabia vRS most members had resorted to bypassing the crankcase breather system by installing an oil catch can or more simply venting directly to the atmosphere (the famous "Elephant hose mod" https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/100913-diy-guide-the-elephant-hose-ccv-catch-can-mod/?hl=CCv%20mod). For the Fabia this is a brilliant idea because the mix of oil vapour from the crankcase in combination with soot laden smoke from the EGR causes the EGR valve to become blocked with the most horrendous tar like goo. Furthermore the intercooler becomes saturated with oil reducing its ability to cool the intake charge. Thankfully on the PD engine the EGR valve is mounted on the top of the engine and is easily accessible for removal and cleaning. On the new CR TDI engines the EGR valve is mounted on the back underside and the job of removal is something a proctologist would even find difficult. The prospect of the EGR blocking on one of these engines is really something that keeps me awake at night! Many Yeti owners have had persistent limp mode until their EGR was replaced at considderable cost. Bypassing the crankcase breather system is something that coupld go a long way to preventing premature clogging of the EGR, intake maniford and intercooler. Is there any reason why it would be a bad idea on a newer CR diesel engine compared to the older PD engine? Stone damage to A/C radiator The A/C condenser rad seems to be in a really vunerable place on these cars. Mine already has several impact craters in its surface due to stones. I think installing some mesh i the vents would be a good idea to avoid an expenvie air con repair bill. Does anyone have opinions or links to recommended methods for doing this or any aftermarket grills that may help? Cheers, Sam

SOLD!

Hi guys, The many years of owning my beloved mk1 vRS are sadly coming to an end. It has been the best car I have ever owned and still puts a smile on my face :-) Unfortunately the recent discovery of two MOT failure faults on top of many longer standing non-MOT faults has lead me to try sell her for spares/repairs. She currently has one month left on the current MOT (expires 27th April). I want to buy a Yeti, boring eh? but I now need a practical larger car for family etc. I would consider trading her in against a Yeti but I'd rather sell her to interested forum members willing to use her as a donor car or breaking for spares/repairs. So I'm open to offers. I will also be making enquiries about how much a stealership is willing to offer me in part exchange and a potential buyer on here will have to beat that offer, I'm probably looking to get around £750. The potential buyer will also have to wait until I've sourced my replacement car before collecting, it is currently my everyday car. Any questions please ask. I am located near Daventry, Northants. About the car: 56 plate Fabia vRS mk1 BLT engine 160,400 miles Silver Cloth interior Cruise control Powerflex poly bushes fitted. Elephant hose mod. EGR restrictor gasket fitted and turned down EGR function in VCDS. Full service history, always used quantum platinum oil every 10,000 miles. Engine just serviced: oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter. Known faults: Split side passenger CV boot outboard side - MOT failure. Seized handbrake cable passenger side - MOT failure. Aircon not working - Fault code (No system pressure) - presumed stone damage to condenser. Front windows not working, no idea why, checked all fuses, voltages, ground connections, seems to be a computer/signalling/software fault. No fault codes. Head gasket leak, positive pressure builds up in system and forces coolant out of pressure release valve. System loses about 0.5l of coolant every 1000 miles. Tried K-seal but unfortunately didn't work. Cheers, Sam

Hey guys, Re: Fabia I VRS Just been on holiday in France for the past couple of weeks and had the frightening experience of complete brake failure. I diagnosed the problem straight away as splits at both ends of the vacuum hose that connects to the tandem diesel pump, hence due to vacuum leak I completely lost vacuum brake servo assistance. A rather helpful chap in a French garage simply replaced this short section of hose with a piece of standard rubber fuel hose and since then everything seems perfectly fine. My question relates to the safety of this fix. All the previous posts (eg. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/319503-noob-question-broken-brake-vacuum-hose-split/) on this common problem mention a complete replacement with a new part costing around £25, not a simple fix like mine with about 10p worth of hose. Am I missing something here? Thanks in advance :-)

The best thing about using microcontroller is that it has all that functionality built in (voltage regs, comparators, ADCs, timers). It makes for much simpler circuitry and a huge reduction in component count. We've been able to construct this circuit on veroboard smaller than a matchbox. I'll keep you posted. Cheers.

Thanks for the info jacissmiling, great detective work there! It really would be fantastic if we could install the heater as a proper OEM setup by making use of all the control functionality that already exists in the ECU. However, I like you like the idea of controlling the PTC elements via the heated rear window switch. The control board solution Wino and I have been working on works quite well here. One additional advantage of the control board solution is it allows you to use three cheaper 30A relays with integrated fuse holders (post #93), rather than 1x40A and 1x70A rated and expensive relays with separate fuse holders. This simplifies the setup and makes it cheaper. The cheap 30A relays with integrated fuses are available on ebay for less that £3 each! Since our original posts I have been working on some changes to the control scheme. The original plan as you are aware is to have a microcontroller monitor the system voltage from the point of view of the control board's power supply. One of the difficulties we have is that the board's power supply voltage is quite strongly affected by the system load, and you see quite erratic swings in voltage depending on what accessories and perphericals are activated. Using voltage to monitor the battery health is also fraught with difficulty since lead acid batteries only begin to show appreciable voltage drops when they are on their last legs - hardly an ideal method for a system that is supposed to prevent that from happening! We could measure the battery voltage directly by running a sense wire into the engine bay, but if we do that then we can just as easily hook up to the alternator DFM. That's what I'm coding up at the moment on the microcontroller - a program that measures the alternator loading via the DFM PWM signal and switches the relays on and off in response. The scheme will follow the VW Lupo recommendations in Wino's post #99.

The guide is not ready yet. Sorry guys, been very busy. @jacissmiling - Unfortunately it isn't as simple as plugging in the heater to the existing wiring loom. The two relays (J359 and J360) and the 3x fuse carrier are not installed in cars that do not have the heater fitted - so naturally there exists no OEM way of connecting the heater element. If you want to dismantle your dashboard to try find them they won't be there. The whole goal of this project has been to provide that very connectivity be retrofitting relays. The relays themselves have to be controlled by a custom control board that myself and Wino have designed. They cannot be controlled by the ECU without knowledge of the interface and how to activate it.