Davet30

Hi, my timing belt service is due. Last time I had it done as an aside when my water pump/thermostat failed. Work was satisfactory but they didn't give it a wash as part of the job. That was in Lincoln when I worked there. My closest Skoda gatage also didn't do a decent job on my Octavia when I had it. So ive had various experiences through out my time and I can't afford a botched job cos I'm needing it for a holiday in a few weeks. I was thinking of trying Sheffield, Hillsborough and wondered if anyone on here had any reviews or suggestions? Ta.

I don't recall ever giving an update. I ended up buying a control module, replaced it myself as its just in the main fuse box under the hood. cleared the code and bingo! sorted for less than £90

Hmm, the wife doesn't want/trust the DIY route and I've yet to visit a body shop for quotes. The reason I was entertaining the DIY was I've a few other minor blemishes which could do with a touch up so a can of matching paint like from here .. https://www.paintnuts.co.uk/category/colour-matched-paint would suffice for those but not sure how "matching" they would be? Thanks a bunch lads and I'll let y'all know the outcome. NB there is a slight dint in the wheel arch and was wondering about trying to knock that out myself....

Hi, couldn't find what I was looking for on search but this subject may not be model specific. anyway. I was unfortunate enough to scrape a stone wall with my rear nearside wheel arch and its taken the paint off down to the white undercoat on a few scratches and was looking to get it 'sorted'. Q 1 - would you go with a professional body shop or just buy a can of spray paint to go over the scratches. Q 2. If its the latter, has anyone used an online paint mixer/supplier and are they a great match? You will note that the edge of the rear plastic bumper has also been effected anyone with some experience in "smoothing that out" before applying paint would also be appreciated. I thought I could sus out the colour code from the vehicle data sticker but not too sure as mine looks different to what I've found on here. Thanks

Hi, after getting an engine warning light on during 2020 I decided to get a code reader to see if I could fix it myself. I opted for this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152213597573 which allowed me to read the code, give me a clue where to look, and clear the code after I replaced a part. Now I have issues with other parts of the car and no faults are showing using this software. Most functions of the software don't work saying no connecting/incompatible interface or something like that. After watching a guy on youtube using fully functioning software to fault find a similar issue I have I wondered what "special" interface would I need to get full functionality? I've also got to change the rear brake pads and so I also need to access the function to wind off the automatic brake actuator too. In short, should I go with a hand held LCD display unit or get a hardwired/blue tooth interface to work with my PC tablet? Thanks

sorry - its a TDI - I'll update my profile akin to yours. Thanks ... looks like I have a few more years left.

Overview: High everyone. A rather lengthy post I’m afraid with many questions so, with that in mind, to make it readable, I’m going to use sub headings with separate paragraphs. Overview: Bought this car brand new Nov 2017, I had 2 faults within the first year, one the breakdown guy changed a part (J883 exhaust flap control module) the other was the rear brake wasn’t auto releasing intermittently. - now not a problem Just out of warranty the coolant pump failed (well the thermostatic valve part of it) and had this, and the timing belt, changed at the same time, in Dec. 2019 (67K) In 2020 I got the engine warning light come on amber – to cut a long story short, this was the heater plug control module which I replaced myself after buying a hook up cable and free diagnostic software (with very minimal options). Retired July 2020 so now don’t do a third of the miles I used to. Recent fault: Rear door My rear door has started to act up. At first, it just wouldn’t lock fully and so I had to manually give it a push to lock. As time progressed it got worse and, now, no matter if I use the boot open button, the console button or the key fob button it only opens like 1/5th and a second press gets it open another 1/5th but it’s not always the same. I watched a youtube video where the guy had the full working software and could identify open circuit switches in one of the strut motors. Since I was working blind (my software didn’t show any fault with regards to the boot), I acted on his actions guessing it may be a common fault and checked the wiring to each strut. I even removed both struts too and gave them a squirt of WD40 in case water had got in. refitting them made no difference whatsoever. Servicing 2018: (20K) They said, with regards to the handbrake sticking, a software update should sort that out. - it didn’t really and I wondered if it might have been cold weather related? Warranty repair on front side lights, headlights & LED control units Mar. 2019 (39.5K) rear pads 50% amber Sept 2019 (60K) rear wiper blade May 2021(79K) wing mirror replaced brake fluid replaced rear brakes and discs Mar 2023(94K) replace front discs n pads June 2024 (106K)** Rear brakes 75% worn rear tyres tread low Rear dampers slight leak – amber – check in 6mths rear tailgate internal failure of boot latch. Fault stored for electrical coolant pump V488 (rear pump Pierburg) And the usual recommended brake fluid and air con. Refrigerant change. Phew! Sorry for the long post … now comes the related questions: Lets start with: Rear brakes: As already said early on in my ownership I had the rear brakes not releasing and it lasted intermittently for a while but gradually got better over, what felt like, a long time. On 79K I had the rear brake discs and pads changed recommendation at service (very bad they said). I’ve done a quick check on google which says pads should last about 50K and discs 80K which sounds about right. Now, on 106K they have recommended new discs and pads again. That’s just 40K down the line. Coupled with the fact that my rear tyres have worn faster than the front (all 4 were new together) AND the weeping of oil from the rear suspension struts could all this be related and causing the brake components to fail prematurely? Brakes binding perhaps? Second up: Interval for timing belt change. As far as I know this is 5 years or 100K miles?? that would mean I’m due one this Dec. When I told them it was due a belt/pump change on booking this recent service the guy said “oh, they’ve changed the interval now and mine doesn’t need doing?? Is this correct? Rear door fault: Their recent report says “Rear tailgate not working. Car has internal failure of the boot latch. Requires new boot latch and tailgate motors calibration.” Q1) Will this be the part that fits on the door itself or the part that fits to the boot base? (could it be a wiring fault as its intermittent?) Q2) what would the process of calibrating the tail gate motors? Thing is, they quoted me £244 but the part, if I’ve looked at the right one on line. Is less than £50! and finally … Electric water pump fault: “Fault stored for electrical coolant pump V488 (rear pump Pierburg)” I haven’t had a dashboard light come up for this so I can’t see it being that serious of a thing? What’s the job of this pump? As I recall in the past there was only one coolant pump but apparently I’ve got 3? What’s the likely cause? I saw this post on another forum responding to someone with a similar problem who spoke about having a relay replaced to cure a fault but it didn’t. The fault was a coolant pump running while the engine was cold… “You have two additional electric water pumps, the V188 at the front of the engine for the intercooler and the V488 at the rear of the engine which is the heater support pump. These are both controlled by the ECU but unhelpfully both use the same fuse 27 in the engine bay fuse board, separate fuses would help with diagnosis. You need to identify which one is running on and also whether it is Bosch 5G0 965 567 but now 2Q0 965 567 A or Pierburg 5Q0 965 561 B, thankfully the V188 and V488 are the same part numbers. I have seen a lot of these pumps fail and on your version failure of the V188 can give a cavitation fault code for the V488.” Now I had, and still do, an intermittent fault where I hear, what I always thought was, a cooling fan running. This has happened even when the engine has been cold and no ignition on?? I’m now thinking it could be this pump but why the fault has never been picked up before now is anyones guess?? I never did lift the bonnet to check. I mentioned it to a mechanic once and he said it’s a know fault and its down to a relay?? Any ideas anyone? Thanks for your patients. Dave

I found this ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOgBQ4sgwZM&ab_channel=CarsExposed

I've recently started to experience an intermittent fault with my tailgate lifters. I notice you say : My searches have only found your entry here some 18mths ago? Did you manage to resolve this and if so how please? My issue is, on activation of the boot open button, the tailgate lifts only about 25cm then it stops. sometimes, after pressing it again it will open a further 30cm or so, on other occasions it closes the other way but not all the way?? sometimes it needs pressing 3 times. when mine hits the top I hear the 3 beeps - what does this mean? what is this and where did you find this information? I've got the software somewhere but I can't seem to find it as it used to be on my works laptop before I retired. do you know where the motors are located? are they in the struts themselves? There must be a number of sensors somewhere in order for the controller to know when to stop the movement, lock the boot, snap it shut and when to stop opening. Are there sensors within the struts I wonder or is it done my how much current the motors are pulling indicating either an obstruction or having reached the top/bottom. I noticed, when the door was shutting correctly without fault it used to stop in the closed position and then give it an extra 'nip up' to lock. Thanks Dave

had you done any checks on the glow plugs yourself before you took it in e.g. resistance readings? I'm guessing they changed all the plugs - (good practice)

original post was akin to this ...

not sure which is No.2 cylinder but ... why do you ask as they are all reading the same?

Hi, I've already posted on this subject back in April but can't seem to find it. It won't clear using the software and cable .. in warm weather it appears to clear or when the engine is warm but it comes back again when cold. I've measured each glow plug and they are all 0.6ohms which, I think, are ok. Q1- am I right to assume the plugs are good from this measurement? Q2- where else should I look for the fault if it isn't the plug(s). Thanks

yes, MIne does this .. its a 2017 reg. It can be sat on the drive, cool, not having been driven for 3/4 hours then up pops the radiator cooling fan on for no apparent reason. During a recent breakdown (unrelaated to this) the knowledgable driver driving the tow truck said that it was a known faulty relay. No idea where it may be or what but it sounds to me like it could be a faulty temperature sensor OR a fault with the control software. Good luck.

The other week I got the enginer management light come on. (mentioned earlierin another post but just a dead end really) So, I bought a cable and software and the fault was .. exactly.. Stored DTC(S) P0684 - Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Commmunication Circuit Range/Performance I found a great webiste here ... https://www.obd-codes.com/p0684 which pretty much covered everything ... apart from where all the respective componants live?? Anyway ... I reset the code but seeing as the ambient temperature is great today I'm not really surprised the fault hasn't returned. It's got a its service due in a few months and so I'd really like to sort this myself before then. Could someone help with the locations of the GPCM, PCM and the solenoid. If the fault was with a glow plug wouldn't I get some other code indicating which one had failed? Thanks

After the car being sat on the drive for ages I've made a few 80 mile trips on the odd day in the week (total of 5 days in last 5 weeks) Yesterday I get in the car and the engine management warning light does not go out after starting. Must say too the car appeared to take some starting too - (battery?) So, I think, solid amber light drive carefully. I've heard of soot buildup and think I may be able to burn off deposits? Ran it for about 3 miles and decided to call the AA. A tech gets back to me from the AA and advises just what I thouight. He says so long as it runs OK, the light stays solid amber, does not start blinking OR turn to red then see how it goes. He also said you will probably find it will go out when you start the car back up after that. The car seems to run fine - no juddering/loss of power - all seems fine. I run it down the M1 at 2,000rpm for 70 miles. reaches my destination - turns off the engine, back on .. its still on!! Finished my work (key worker btw) and makes my way back home. this time I run the car at 3,000rpm. got home, no change.. the lights still on. Since the garages are all shut due to covid-19 I can't take it in. will it need to be connected to a PC to clear this light? Its due a service in 2,400 miles. Will I be OK to still drive with it like this? If I disconnect the battery for a few minuites will this clear the code? 2017 1968 cc 115 g/km DIESEL Thanks, in anticipation Dave