Davet30

Wiring looked the same. Length was too. There was a difference side by side - the glued sheath length differed by approx 20mm. I can't see where any part numbers are located??

did this get resolved only I have a similar issue and have had for quite a while intermittently initially but now fairly constant. I've done extensive research (not exhaustive). I found: On activation, either by key fob, in the car or at the boot, the module fires a signal to the lock to unlock. I'm guessing that if the lock moves from the locked state to unlock state that tells the module to activate the strut motors in the open (lift) direction after the lock releases. 2 hall effect sensors IN EACH STRUT are used to feed data back to the module with regards to: the speed of each strut, the position of each strut the relative position of the struts between them (so the hatch isn't twisting on its hinges) In addition to this, I suspect that the strut motor currents are monitored which may indicate an obstruction if they exceed a preset threshold. I'm not aware/sure if there may be other transducers involved but I do know if there are open circuits in the wiring to the motors or hall effect sensors, this will show up in a test code reader (but not just a bog standard OBDii reader, it has to be VAG specific) A common issue is that one or more of the thin hall effect wires can break at the 100 degree bend in the rubber boot after it repeatedly gets bent and straightened in that area. If the break is such that the insulation remains intact you don't see it and it can be a momentary break and make issue which stops the module knowing essential data with regards to the strut speed, direction and position and so stops both motors for safety protocols. It maybe thinking that there is an obstruction. The intermittent break will not always log a fault code and so you don't find it that way. The best way to do this is using the full code reading tester which gives you access to the particular data stream of the module. I don't have one, mine only logs constant codes for that module (motor and hall sensor 1 is nearside, 2 is off side) After much anguish, I made an executive decision that the cost of a garage hooking up to their computer would be similar to the price of a pair of struts and so, because most faults point to faulty struts/wiring, I bought 2, changed them and ... no change?!! Now I'm left with a decision to buy a dongle for full Professional access or strip out the boot, locate the module and see if there is anything obvious at that end. Thanks

Hi, my timing belt service is due. Last time I had it done as an aside when my water pump/thermostat failed. Work was satisfactory but they didn't give it a wash as part of the job. That was in Lincoln when I worked there. My closest Skoda gatage also didn't do a decent job on my Octavia when I had it. So ive had various experiences through out my time and I can't afford a botched job cos I'm needing it for a holiday in a few weeks. I was thinking of trying Sheffield, Hillsborough and wondered if anyone on here had any reviews or suggestions? Ta.

I don't recall ever giving an update. I ended up buying a control module, replaced it myself as its just in the main fuse box under the hood. cleared the code and bingo! sorted for less than £90

Hmm, the wife doesn't want/trust the DIY route and I've yet to visit a body shop for quotes. The reason I was entertaining the DIY was I've a few other minor blemishes which could do with a touch up so a can of matching paint like from here .. https://www.paintnuts.co.uk/category/colour-matched-paint would suffice for those but not sure how "matching" they would be? Thanks a bunch lads and I'll let y'all know the outcome. NB there is a slight dint in the wheel arch and was wondering about trying to knock that out myself....

Hi, couldn't find what I was looking for on search but this subject may not be model specific. anyway. I was unfortunate enough to scrape a stone wall with my rear nearside wheel arch and its taken the paint off down to the white undercoat on a few scratches and was looking to get it 'sorted'. Q 1 - would you go with a professional body shop or just buy a can of spray paint to go over the scratches. Q 2. If its the latter, has anyone used an online paint mixer/supplier and are they a great match? You will note that the edge of the rear plastic bumper has also been effected anyone with some experience in "smoothing that out" before applying paint would also be appreciated. I thought I could sus out the colour code from the vehicle data sticker but not too sure as mine looks different to what I've found on here. Thanks

Hi, after getting an engine warning light on during 2020 I decided to get a code reader to see if I could fix it myself. I opted for this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152213597573 which allowed me to read the code, give me a clue where to look, and clear the code after I replaced a part. Now I have issues with other parts of the car and no faults are showing using this software. Most functions of the software don't work saying no connecting/incompatible interface or something like that. After watching a guy on youtube using fully functioning software to fault find a similar issue I have I wondered what "special" interface would I need to get full functionality? I've also got to change the rear brake pads and so I also need to access the function to wind off the automatic brake actuator too. In short, should I go with a hand held LCD display unit or get a hardwired/blue tooth interface to work with my PC tablet? Thanks

sorry - its a TDI - I'll update my profile akin to yours. Thanks ... looks like I have a few more years left.

Overview: High everyone. A rather lengthy post I’m afraid with many questions so, with that in mind, to make it readable, I’m going to use sub headings with separate paragraphs. Overview: Bought this car brand new Nov 2017, I had 2 faults within the first year, one the breakdown guy changed a part (J883 exhaust flap control module) the other was the rear brake wasn’t auto releasing intermittently. - now not a problem Just out of warranty the coolant pump failed (well the thermostatic valve part of it) and had this, and the timing belt, changed at the same time, in Dec. 2019 (67K) In 2020 I got the engine warning light come on amber – to cut a long story short, this was the heater plug control module which I replaced myself after buying a hook up cable and free diagnostic software (with very minimal options). Retired July 2020 so now don’t do a third of the miles I used to. Recent fault: Rear door My rear door has started to act up. At first, it just wouldn’t lock fully and so I had to manually give it a push to lock. As time progressed it got worse and, now, no matter if I use the boot open button, the console button or the key fob button it only opens like 1/5th and a second press gets it open another 1/5th but it’s not always the same. I watched a youtube video where the guy had the full working software and could identify open circuit switches in one of the strut motors. Since I was working blind (my software didn’t show any fault with regards to the boot), I acted on his actions guessing it may be a common fault and checked the wiring to each strut. I even removed both struts too and gave them a squirt of WD40 in case water had got in. refitting them made no difference whatsoever. Servicing 2018: (20K) They said, with regards to the handbrake sticking, a software update should sort that out. - it didn’t really and I wondered if it might have been cold weather related? Warranty repair on front side lights, headlights & LED control units Mar. 2019 (39.5K) rear pads 50% amber Sept 2019 (60K) rear wiper blade May 2021(79K) wing mirror replaced brake fluid replaced rear brakes and discs Mar 2023(94K) replace front discs n pads June 2024 (106K)** Rear brakes 75% worn rear tyres tread low Rear dampers slight leak – amber – check in 6mths rear tailgate internal failure of boot latch. Fault stored for electrical coolant pump V488 (rear pump Pierburg) And the usual recommended brake fluid and air con. Refrigerant change. Phew! Sorry for the long post … now comes the related questions: Lets start with: Rear brakes: As already said early on in my ownership I had the rear brakes not releasing and it lasted intermittently for a while but gradually got better over, what felt like, a long time. On 79K I had the rear brake discs and pads changed recommendation at service (very bad they said). I’ve done a quick check on google which says pads should last about 50K and discs 80K which sounds about right. Now, on 106K they have recommended new discs and pads again. That’s just 40K down the line. Coupled with the fact that my rear tyres have worn faster than the front (all 4 were new together) AND the weeping of oil from the rear suspension struts could all this be related and causing the brake components to fail prematurely? Brakes binding perhaps? Second up: Interval for timing belt change. As far as I know this is 5 years or 100K miles?? that would mean I’m due one this Dec. When I told them it was due a belt/pump change on booking this recent service the guy said “oh, they’ve changed the interval now and mine doesn’t need doing?? Is this correct? Rear door fault: Their recent report says “Rear tailgate not working. Car has internal failure of the boot latch. Requires new boot latch and tailgate motors calibration.” Q1) Will this be the part that fits on the door itself or the part that fits to the boot base? (could it be a wiring fault as its intermittent?) Q2) what would the process of calibrating the tail gate motors? Thing is, they quoted me £244 but the part, if I’ve looked at the right one on line. Is less than £50! and finally … Electric water pump fault: “Fault stored for electrical coolant pump V488 (rear pump Pierburg)” I haven’t had a dashboard light come up for this so I can’t see it being that serious of a thing? What’s the job of this pump? As I recall in the past there was only one coolant pump but apparently I’ve got 3? What’s the likely cause? I saw this post on another forum responding to someone with a similar problem who spoke about having a relay replaced to cure a fault but it didn’t. The fault was a coolant pump running while the engine was cold… “You have two additional electric water pumps, the V188 at the front of the engine for the intercooler and the V488 at the rear of the engine which is the heater support pump. These are both controlled by the ECU but unhelpfully both use the same fuse 27 in the engine bay fuse board, separate fuses would help with diagnosis. You need to identify which one is running on and also whether it is Bosch 5G0 965 567 but now 2Q0 965 567 A or Pierburg 5Q0 965 561 B, thankfully the V188 and V488 are the same part numbers. I have seen a lot of these pumps fail and on your version failure of the V188 can give a cavitation fault code for the V488.” Now I had, and still do, an intermittent fault where I hear, what I always thought was, a cooling fan running. This has happened even when the engine has been cold and no ignition on?? I’m now thinking it could be this pump but why the fault has never been picked up before now is anyones guess?? I never did lift the bonnet to check. I mentioned it to a mechanic once and he said it’s a know fault and its down to a relay?? Any ideas anyone? Thanks for your patients. Dave

I found this ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOgBQ4sgwZM&ab_channel=CarsExposed

I've recently started to experience an intermittent fault with my tailgate lifters. I notice you say : My searches have only found your entry here some 18mths ago? Did you manage to resolve this and if so how please? My issue is, on activation of the boot open button, the tailgate lifts only about 25cm then it stops. sometimes, after pressing it again it will open a further 30cm or so, on other occasions it closes the other way but not all the way?? sometimes it needs pressing 3 times. when mine hits the top I hear the 3 beeps - what does this mean? what is this and where did you find this information? I've got the software somewhere but I can't seem to find it as it used to be on my works laptop before I retired. do you know where the motors are located? are they in the struts themselves? There must be a number of sensors somewhere in order for the controller to know when to stop the movement, lock the boot, snap it shut and when to stop opening. Are there sensors within the struts I wonder or is it done my how much current the motors are pulling indicating either an obstruction or having reached the top/bottom. I noticed, when the door was shutting correctly without fault it used to stop in the closed position and then give it an extra 'nip up' to lock. Thanks Dave

had you done any checks on the glow plugs yourself before you took it in e.g. resistance readings? I'm guessing they changed all the plugs - (good practice)

original post was akin to this ...

not sure which is No.2 cylinder but ... why do you ask as they are all reading the same?

Hi, I've already posted on this subject back in April but can't seem to find it. It won't clear using the software and cable .. in warm weather it appears to clear or when the engine is warm but it comes back again when cold. I've measured each glow plug and they are all 0.6ohms which, I think, are ok. Q1- am I right to assume the plugs are good from this measurement? Q2- where else should I look for the fault if it isn't the plug(s). Thanks