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I was quoted £720 for having the egr cooler replaced on our cr TDI vRS at a main Skoda dealer. A local vag specialist then quoted me £650.

Thanks for your help, maybe they've just lost me as a regular customer. 'Stealers' they are......

The dealership noticed the leak when it went in for a 10k oil service. I can't help think they're getting a little excited and fishing for work.

Hi everyone, I'm not really a poster on BRISKODA, but I do drop by most days to see what current issues are with cars and to see if I can offer some help, unfortunately I'm not much of a mechanic! I was hoping some of you experienced people, especially those with knowledge of the EGR valve/cooler on CR engines could offer up some informed advice. My girlfriends' car (2010 CR TDi vRS DSG 50k miles) has been diagnosed with an EGR cooler leak. I have not noticed anything out of the ordinary (nothing at all) no fault lights, rough running, overheating, loss of power, lower mpg etc etc etc. The garage/dealer (stealer?) has offered up a photo of the EGR cooler leak, which, if I'm honest I can see a slight discolouration where there appears to be slight weeping (see attached picture). I have never noticed a drop in coolant (I'm assuming the EGR is cooled by coolant and not oil), (The water pump was replaced 4 months ago-so I guess new coolant filled to correct level then, I hadn't noticed any loss prior to this either) I was wondering if this is something to worry about at the moment,or should I let nature take it's course and only do something if I notice symptoms later on down the line. The garage have been quite open and said it's not anything that I need to rush into, as it is only an 'advisory' as such. I have managed to get a slight goodwill discount from £700+ to £645 (which I presume is for a whole new EGR unit), now if I get it replaced (main dealer) do I try to get more 'goodwill' as I'm not very happy about the car having an issue at around 4.5 years old-is this unreasonable of me? as the car has been faultless to now, I know a few people that have now had EGR problems on various VAG cars (seems a weakness), the car has a full skoda main dealer history and was bought 'approved used' after 10 months 'previous person ownership', or do I go down the 'indie' route as that was quoted at £622 for the job, or do I go down the forget about it for the time being route and see what happens route......please place your 'vote' after considering the info and the picture. Also, if the EGR leak is actually oil, is the EGR situated where a spill of oil when topping up the car could look like a leak? as I had a little spill a couple of months ago. Your help and advice is gratefully recieved, I hope that I can help someone.....someday...... Here is a picture of the 'leak/weep' (it opens bigger in a new window if required) Thanks in advance!

Here is a link to the zf 8 speed box, I don't understand most of it if I'm honest, but in the video presentation they did say torque converter slip is reduced and gear changes from 8th-2nd are possible. http://www.zf.com/corporate/en/products/innovations/8hp_automatic_transmissions/8hp_automatic_transmission.html In my M135i (which is 3 litre petrol and twin scroll turbo) I can get 40mpg+ on a run if steady at 70mph on motorway, I mostly drive around town and does up to around 30mpg, which considering the performance of the car is pretty good imho. I do like both the DSG and the zf 8, both are really good gearboxes, the dsg can get caught out and is a bit clunky if you're not delicate with the loud pedal at low speeds, whilst I can honestly say I haven't experienced similar on the zf, but the zf can be a bit lumpy when really cold outside for the first few gear changes. But the zf is a newer design of box and I guess that's progress, probably also costs more to repair than a dsg, that's also 'progress' for you! Once (if) electric cars have caught on, the gearbox will probably be finished as electric motors have full torque at all speeds-I guess this is a discussion piece for another day......

The 8 speed auto in BMW's is a torque converter job, but is really quick to lock up and gives a very quick and smooth change. I believe the gearbox was the 'gearbox of the year' last year and it is made by zf and is found in everything from Bentley to Land Rover (who are getting a 9 speed box) I have the 8 speed zf in my BMW M135i and it really is a great box, much better than a dsg 6 at low speeds, also as it has more ratio's it always seems to be in the correct gear.

The Octavia has done 39k on the rears so far, which to me is quite a lot of miles, plus looking at the tread that's left and discounting the odd wear on the inner edge, potentially the tyres could do another 10-15k-maybe it's just the tyres are really hard, combined with the tread pattern and I am just experiencing what others have done so before.I still think I will get the geometry checked (hopefully I can get this done within a week or so) and maybe get the camber adjusted too as I still don't understand the band that's starting to appear as I check tyre pressures regularly (which I guess rules that out) so again, camber comes back into the mix, as it can be quite noisy and I'm all for looking after the tyres on cars and not wearing them out just for a lack of 'maintenance' and if they do another 12 months or so they will need to be changed around the same time as the fronts too. The rear tyres are Dunlop SP Sport 01. Thanks for your help with the problem. Hopefully I'll report back in the future with my findings and possible solutions......

Cheers for replying, the tyres on the rear of the vRS are the standard oem tyres, the tyres on the front are Hankook Ventus v12 Evo (which have been great btw), looks like I'm going to have to spend some money and get the alignments checked...... and see if the alignment place can advise further, thanks for the info...

Thanks for the response, I've had other 'sporty' cars and not had any of them make the noise of the vRS and they have quite a lot of camber on the rears-both being BMW's, one a 330d with runflats on and now my new m135i which has non runflats but with sticky super sport tyres on, both of these have 18" 245 tyres on a 35 profile. I think that the settings are slightly wrong on the vRS, but still wonder if having the 'lumps' of dog in the back quite a lot of time I should run less camber. The pattern of the tread on the inner edges does look as if it could be making the noise, as it isn't overly loud, just enough to be noticeable. I may swap the tyres over and see what happens there as I have got different brands on the car. Again, cheers for your input, greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the info, I won't put my hand over a saw blade just yet...... I thought it was sawtooth starting as the car was beginning to sound a little noisy from the rear and I thought possibly the tread pattern was making the noise. When the car was bought it was put on a 'hunter' machine, I presume it was aligned to the correct tolerances, but, unfortunately I don't know if it was the updated settings or old settings, looks like I'm going to have to get it checked over and see what the'geometry' place says. Just thought having 2 quite chunky dogs in the back may effect things over time.....

'Tank' is actually the quieter of the 2 dogs, 'little man' has a complex and is the fighter, tank is the lover not the hater.....

Hi all, I have noticed recently that the rear tyres on the family vRS estate (59 plate) seem to be getting noisy. I have been underneath the car and took a couple of photo's, (see attached) Is this the start of 'Sawtooth' inner edges? If so, are these the new settings I need for the alignment? CAMBER -50' -10' (max -1 DEGREE) or on RS chassis -1 DEGREE 15' -5' (max -1 degree 20') TOTAL TOE IN +10' -2' TOE IN DIVIDED LEFT +5' TOE IN DIVIDED RIGHT +5 (Found elsewhere on this wonderful site! Thanks to OP) Also, for quite a few journeys we have 2 boxer dogs in the boot, one weighs 40kg (Bunjo aka Tank) and the other weighs around 30kg (Barry aka little man)-(see final picture), now, I don't understand car suspension too much and how it works, but would a greater weight in the boot (see above) over the rear axle cause the sawtooth to be worse? Is it worth getting the camber decreased a little more to compensate for the increased weight? so that the tyres run 'flatter' on the road? (I guess this means less likely to feel like being on rails going around a corner) or does car suspension always make the tyres run at the same camber/angle to the road no matter what the weight of stuff (dog) in the boot? (Ie compression of suspension) Ie does the wheel move up and down under load or does it follow an arc? hope that makes sense.... I hope a knowledgeable person can shed light on the above and help with the settings and if my understanding of car suspension is correct-more likely to be incorrect. Thanks for your time and input. (Tank and little man also say thanks for helping)

I agree with the above, a really good tyre for the price. I would definitely buy them again. Currently they've done 20k miles on my vRS (on the front) and would guess they've probably got at least another 10k left. Most of my milage is on country lanes that have been 'resurfaced' with that horrible abrasive 'slurry' road surface.

My other car is a BMW M135i, I bought it a couple of months ago. I am really impressed with the car, it can 'pootle' around when needed, but press the throttle and it becomes a VERY rapid car! It wasn't cheap, but, compared to some cars of the performance it was a 'bargin', the base price was good, but once you start adding a few 'essential' options the cost soon mounts up. A rough overview of my car is 3 litre turbo petrol, rwd, 8 speed zf sport auto, full leather, sports brakes, adaptive sports suspension, xenon lights, upgraded HK sound, DAB radio, full back panel display, electric memory seats. I could have had way more options, but, that would have took the car's cost to silly money. Thought you may also like to see a video review of a M135i v an RS3. 20 minutes long, but quite enjoyable. Thanks for reading and or watching......

I had an issue with this recently. There are 3 service regimes, variable, fixed without oil monitoring and fixed with oil monitoring. I believe the servicing code you ask for is QG2 service (fixed with oil monitoring) If the person on the front desk doesn't understand, ask them to put it on as a note to the service tech. I also believe if the service is reset on the car it will default to fixed without oil monitoring. It has to be reset on the service dept computer. vagcom? Regards.