harry vederci

Does anyone know if the rear washer on my 1.2 Estate Greenline can be modified or replaced to provide the same fan pattern that the front washers provide? As you probably know, the rear washer is a straight jet fired vertically and it’s only the action of the wiper that distributes it across the window and it’s not great. Thanks.

All sorted now; user error 🫣 I had put a fuse back in the wrong bay. Eejit.

Hi, can anyone with a UK Mk 2 Greenline Estate (mine is 2011) post a photo of the fuse compartment under the steering wheel? I need to be able to see the fuse ratings and their position clearly. The handbook tells me the assignment but not the values and I may have repositioned one of them wrongly yesterday after installing a dashcam. Neither my tail lights, sidelights, headlights, or dashboard lights come on when I turn the lights on. This is what mine currently looks like (I’ve removed the dashcam piggy-back, which was using bay 44, rear wiper). Thanks!

You were spot on. The fault was a dodgy ABS sensor on the front offside. All sorted now.

To DEACTIVATE the DRLs on my Fabia Greenline I did the following: with the engine off, and headlight switch in the "0" position, I pushed down on the turn signal stalk and pulled it back toward me (as if flashing my headlights high beams while indicating left). Hold that position while you turn the key to the on position but don't start the car. Maintain everything in that position for about 3 seconds. Switch off the ignition and release the indicator stalk. That process turns DRLs off. To reactivate them, do the same except lift the turn signal stalk upwards as though turning right, pull back for full beam etc. Let me know if that worked for you.

Ah, I knew I should have written them down and not just tried to memorise them! Fuse 8 is ok.

Ok, fuse 5 is absent but it’s listed for petrol engines and mine is a diesel. Fuses 9, 22 and 39 are present and intact. The voltage on fuse 5 in the battery fuse holder reads 12.4 V. (They are numbered 1, Reserve, 3,4,5,6.

Cheers Pete, I’ll check the fuses you list. Is slot 10 supposed to be empty though? I don’t know what or where those other parts you mentioned are. I’ll have to google those…

Hi, the VIN is TMBKK25J1C3063093.

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My AC hasn’t been working for a while so, thinking it was out of gas, I took it in for a recharge to ATS. They told me that it still had plenty of gas (470g) but for some reason wasn’t blowing cold and that I’d need to get someone to diagnose it. The AC light comes on but there’s no change in engine revs at all, which I’m sure there used to be. I checked the manual for the fuse location, which it listed as number 10 in the array under the steering wheel but that slot is empty. I’ve never touched those fuses so is it missing or not required? If that’s not the fault, does anyone have any suggestions for things I can check for myself before putting it in to a garage? I don’t have diagnostic tools or anything like that. Thanks.

I’m in Glasgow. Servicing has always been done by Henrys Skoda but I’m inclined to use an independent garage for this repair instead.

You may be right. I forgot to mention that when the lights are not on and the speedo needle is fluctuating, the ABS activates even under normal braking. Would a fault scan identify which ABS sensors are faulty? If it turns out to be that, is that an expensive job?

Hi Warrior, the battery is an E39 Varta Start-Stop Plus 096 AGM 12V 70Ah (570901076) which I fitted in July 2019 after the original gave up.

A few days ago, the above three warning lights appeared while driving. I don’t have an OBD fault reader so I’ll describe the symptoms in the hope someone might recognise what the fault is. I could take it to the dealer but they’ll charge £90 plus vat just to plug the reader in! The lights don’t usually appear until I’ve driven a few hundred yards but occasionally they are on at start-up. When they come on they are accompanied by the chime that warns of low tyre pressure/frost etc. While they are on, there is no discernible problem in how it drives. Power and response appear to be normal. Tyre pressures are all correct and the battery has been fully charged overnight on a smart charger. However, the following conditions are present while the lights are on: digital display of the gear always shows 5, in every gear cruise control will not work the message “start-stop error” is sometimes displayed If I switch off the ignition for a few minutes and restart, sometimes the lights don’t appear and none of the above conditions apply any more. Instead, the car can be going along steadily at, say, 50mph on cruise control when it will start to play up and I can tell that the lights are about to come on because: the speedo needle will either start to bounce or drop to 15mph and stay there (the digital speedo remains accurate) cruise control switches itself off the engine starts to cut like it’s not firing properly or no fuel is being delivered momentarily To get rid of the ‘misfire’, I have to drop a gear and go a few hundred yards at higher revs, at which point the warning lights come on and the car drives fine! Anyone have a clue what might be the source? It’s a 2011 (61) 1.2 Fabia Greenline II, 93,500 miles, dealer serviced and I’ve had it from new.

Mine (same year and model as yours) has done this almost from new. At first it would activate only if, while the wipers were on, I braked. I checked the lights thoroughly and there was no fault. Restarting would clear the warning light, until the next time I braked with the wipers on. Then a few years ago it just came on and has stayed on ever since. Nothing wrong with any of the lights. From what I’ve read it’s a fairly common fault. I’d love to hear if there’s a fix for it.

Thanks Sepulchrave and StevesTruck. I’m not competent mechanically, so your opinions are really helpful. I’ll get a quote for replacing the joints from a local independent that I’ve used before.

The last advisory on my MOT was for play in steering rack inner joints. I’d like to get this sorted soon, but I don’t know what’s needed. Is it best to replace the steering rack and, if so, which one do I need? My searches have come up with two options: sensor type, or non-sensor type. I’d be looking at a refurb replacement as I’m not paying Skoda prices. Or can I just get the worn joints replaced? Car is a 2011 Greenline MkII 1.2 diesel. Appreciate any help.

Here are the part numbers for the satin finish transfers as supplied by my local dealership (cost is £6.34 each):

Look at the picture of the inside of the resprayed tailgate up thread. If they can reach all of it with undercoat (which they obviously did) then they can paint it as well.

Are you referring to the crappy paint around the top edge of the window, or the whole job? It seems to me that not painting the inside is a cost-cutting exercise by the body shop and I had expected it to come back fully painted, as it was when it went in. The dealer has come back to me claiming that Skoda has confirmed the inside doesn’t get painted and that what’s been done satisfies the warranty repair terms. According to the dealer, Skoda said: “The inside of panels are not fully painted as would the outside be and the cavity wax is used to protect them from moisture without this wax corrosion can start from the inside of the panels.” I still feel they’re having a laugh. Has anyone else had similar with a warranty respray?

The body shop is saying that the state they left the interior of the tailgate is normal and that “it does not get painted, it is just coated with cavity wax”. I think the tailgate should be restored to what it was like before the defect, and that was fully painted. Here’s how they returned it: And if that yellow sticky stuff is the wax coating, they’ve managed to apply it anywhere but where the rust was! Here’s how it went in: They also messed up the area at the top of the rear window as you can see from these photos: Am I being unreasonable in rejecting this repair?

I’m going to have a look around YouTube for videos showing how to replace those window strips and do it myself. They aren’t that expensive. I’ll maybe replace the vinyl on the B-pillars at the same time as they’re pretty rough now too. I got the car back a couple of days ago and the paint job on the outside of the tailgate is good enough but they’ve cut corners when finishing the interior. Much of it (the ‘unseen’ area behind the plastic boot trim) has been left as undercoat and not painted at all! And there’s an area the top of the rear window, for its whole width, where the undercoat is still visible and there’s an obvious run in the paint. I’ve emailed them with photos and asked for it to go back in. I don’t think it’s unreasonable to have it properly painted, the way it was when they got it.

If it’s anything like the Mk 2 Fabia, undo the screw retaining the rubber pull strap in place and then pull off the inner boot trim. It should be mounted with about ten or so pop clips. Use something plastic but stiff to start the panel off. Be careful as it is easy to mark the trim, so don’t use something narrow like a screwdriver. Edit: Sorry, I just remembered I have a 2022 Fabia in the drive as a courtesy car while mine is in for repair! In addition to the pull strap there appear to be five further screws (torx) holding the trim on.

Yep, says so in my handbook 🙂. Besides, Skoda wouldn’t be fixing it now if it wasn’t still covered.