MarkyG82
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Posts posted by MarkyG82
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The Ioniq is excellent. It's the newer version of the old shape so bigger battery and water cooled too. The efficiency is spot on. In the summer it say 195 miles when unplugged and will genuinely do that if not a little more. It's my aim to get over 200 miles from a "tank" this summer. Winter less so as you'd expect but the GOM is still accurate at around 165 worst case. Comfort wise and power are perfect for a small-mid size family car. It's smooth and very responsive. A few things I dislike are the constant bings about lane departure or other road users etc., the fact you have to turn on autohold each time you start up and how hard it is to keep at 30. It will more comfortably cruise at 35 ish. But the radar cruise is very good so I just set it and let the car hold the speed.
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On 01/05/2024 at 10:02, leolito said:
I would have loved the Skoda PHEV offering to be with a different powerplant and full AWD, but it was not the case.
And as you buy only once ... I also see a (dark) electric future in motoring, might as well try to enjoy it while it still lasts!
All the VAG hybrid engines are the same 1.4 unit. It's the same 1.4 you get in the non-hybrid. It have some upgraded cylinder sleeves and a few other tweaks to reduce friction for faster power unit switching. Also helps when the unit is cold thus not fully oiled. As far as economy and mapping I think it is very similar to the stock 1.4 so equivalent to a 1.4 car with a loaded boot.
I agree it would have been nice to have it in AWD variant especially given the added torque of the electric. For what it's worth my mapped GTE is excellent and responsive in full power mode with mode normal family cars not able to keep up. Though like many in this thread I use the power when needed rather than driving like the typical german car owner.
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The DQ200 gearbox on that engine is definitely one to watch out for. They are serviceable if you can fine the right place to do the job. Maybe that is something to look into as a fresh set of fluids can work wonders. Did the independents let on why they didn't want the job? If it is flywheel related then that should not be a gearbox specialist job in my opinion. Unless they are unsure how to remove said gearbox. At that point I would be questioning their knowledge. Not a short journey but I've heard VAGtech in MK are good. At least they are in your end of the country and can't hurt to call them.
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The superb is the same platform as second gen Passat gte. My Passat is the first gen so may be slightly different. All that being said..... I have the off peak settings in the car to finish after my departure time. It ensures the battery is topped up after preconditioning. The charging starts at the beginning of the off peak period so no weirdness with charging to meet the departure time.
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The iV would do the power you need (especially with a tune) but is a heavy car for front wheel drive. It's great for lots of short trips with the odd longer one. Longer trips 2-3 times a week is not where the hybrid shines economy wise. They are very comfortable for both be in and drive though.
As above, the money you spend on conversion plus what you lose in resale value would buy a lot of petrol. And you'd have lower performance.
What's wrong with the TDI?
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Has your subscription run out? Pretty sure the skoda setup is the same as VW where the remote access to many things is free for 3 years then costs. Your car being 2021 could well be over the 3 year mark.
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On 26/04/2024 at 21:10, defsix said:
Have you pictures of the finished setup?
I'll get some once I get clear access to my drive. Building work getting in the way right now.
Minor update:
Trip up to Nottingham and back in the last 24hrs was lovely and smooth. You can tell it's not standard setup. The spring stiffness still shines through especially at low speed.
The cruising comfort is great though. For those who know the dips in the A34, it breezed through and even I was impressed with how well it coped. Going through there with the old setup I bottomed out on a couple of them.
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Update time!
Instantly felt an improvement in stability. All round more confidence inspiring. Drove it for a few days with the springs as per konis (front eibach pro, rear eibach pro with assisters). Car was very pointy and the rear although better was a bit too stiff. I took the assisters out a week ago and and the comfort is very good. The car still goes where you want with minimal body roll. It's such a shame I didn't do it this way from the get go. The car feels right.
Current setup:
Eibach pro from TDI 4x4 dsg Passat estate.
Bilstien B6 shocks as above
No assisters for now (maybe when loaded for the summer hols)
12mm front spacers
20mm rear spacers
White line rear roll bar in stiff setting
One comment on the konis. The rear ones rattled. I thought it was the roll bar but turned out to be the shocks! Tech showed me the state of them once off (roughly 30k miles) and they were shot. Car too heavy I guess.
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The difference will be in the feet that attach to the car. If both cars use the same rail design and the distance between the feet is adjustable, you should be able to fit them to either car.
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Sounds to me that you are undoing the levers too much on the T bolt. Assuming you have bikes so know how a quick release works for wheels, it's the same. Screw the lever down so most of the thread is taken up then push it down to it's flat. the cam action should take up the rest and tighten the bolt. If it's not tight, then you either need to have the lever screwed down more or there is something in the track that is allowing it to compress more without getting tight.
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This was a problem on the old 1.9 and less common on the newer cars. The issue on the 1.9 was to do with the coding of the fuel pump that requires the engine to turn over at a minimum speed. If the starter is a bit worn (took very little on my car) then it requires a double turn of the key to "wake" it up. I had a new battery, all earth points checked, starter cleaned out (this helped the most). All those didn't fix the issue. The only thing I did that 100% solved it was a remap. Unintentional side effect. Ran the car 3 years with the map and never had to double crank it.
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The cambelt stuff has been discussed a few times recently. The time in the UK has been dropped in line with may other markets. The mileage has also been increase though the information on this is more woolly. Two of the figures batted abut are 120k and 140k (miles). This is across the VAG group engines of both fuel type.
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40 minutes ago, arturamaral said:
Same here, how did you get it fixed?
On my GTE there is a very short delay from starting to insert the plug into the car until it tries to lock the connector in place. If you are too slow then the lock engages but the plug handshake fails and it wont charge. A clean and swift insert of the plug is required to ensure it works. Maybe a bit of practice is required. I certainly replug sometimes to ensure it's working. This is especially true if using the fat cable we use on the EV rather than the cable I normally use.
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I think there is something wrong with the coding in your car. Has the software in EVERY module been checked?
I also wonder if it's related to your cold temps? But then it should be warming up a bit?
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As you plan to do, definitely get the shock seated correctly. When was the brake fluid last done? Maybe worth doing and could help with the brake performance.
Lower arms are actually quite easy to replace and worth doing at the same time as the shock seating, depending on cost of course. The bushes can be replaced but often it's more economical to have the whole arm replaced. Especially as it sounds like front and rear bushes are going.
Maybe get the garage to clean down the suspension parts to allow you to monitor the misting?
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The diesel cutoff is higher for many. The fuel costs more, the car costs more, the engine is noisy, it's more polluting. Many are discounting diesel straight away due to the pollution bit.
You don't say how much power you would like. The 1.6 TDI is a full engine but can produce some very good MPG if driven right. Pretty much all the petrol engines are nice and smooth with gradually increasing power outputs.
Even low trim superbs are well specced. Go find a few you like the look of and test them is probably the easiest way.
Just bear in mind the dsg of 2.0 engines is different types of wet clutch and the smaller ones are dry clutch. Dry is listed as not serviceable. Wet is either 40k or 80k service depending on version. They are sensitive to needing it so make sure it's been done.
Clearly manual boxes don't have the same issue.
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I think reducing the charging rate will compound the issue of battery charge as it wont be able to top up. But that statement is based on my experience of the car taking the power form the battery and needing topped up. Maybe it's a generation thing as my passat is the first GTE with 10kw battery. The Superb and current passat both are on the same platform with 13kw battery. I had assumed the systems functioned the same.
It's interesting that yours will take form the mains even after the charging slot has ended.
There still seems to be a strange situation where your car fails to preheat if the battery drops to below 100%. On the rare occasion that I have experienced no charge or similar it is usually down to forgetting to set the timer or not inserting the cable correctly. The timer thing is rare as I usually charge every night the just leave it set. The cable thing is annoyingly more common. The locking plunger activates quite soon after the plug starts to enter the hole. If it's not fully home before the pin activates then the charge will fail. It took me ages to realise this so I sometimes replug just to be sure. It's entirely possible that preheat fails are related but I've not been able to find a pattern. The only time I can think of is when I charge as soon as I get home to make use of solar. This means I have turned off the timer via the button by the cable and it requires a replug to engage the timer.
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2 minutes ago, Rooted said:
But the point is that when you put a spare wheel on a slightly different size
To be honest I'd not thought of that and is a very good point. An outlier situation though. Could be more common than I give credit maybe.
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@pab567 should be able to help with part numbers or even supplying the bits.
As a rough guide you cannot simply swap an MIB1 screen. You'll need a glovebox unit too as that is the head unit. MIB2 screens are interchangeable (mostly) within their type.
There's little point spending the money on upgrading the screen size without upgrading to MIB2. This will then allow you to get carplay/android auto too.
Cost wise things may have changed but you'll need a screen, main unit and maybe a USB port. £200, £400 and £xx roughly in that order. Prices go up for bigger, better systems. You'll also need component protection removal by a dealer and also coding by someone like Pab. These cost roughly £150-200 each.
Pab however, can often supply a plug and play solution so worth asking him for advice.
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3 hours ago, Rooted said:
Tyre pressures do not need to be equal. You can set front and rear differently, even set an odd pressure.
Once logged it is differences by enough of the circumference being identified. / Flagged.
This is true yes. But it's mentally more straightforward to set them the same (or front/back) to ensure they are a good known value. Although the system will work with them at different values it doesn't make sense from a user point of view.
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33 minutes ago, Benscab said:
Yes pressures have never changed . I do hear a bit of light grinding when I brake , could that be anything to do with it ?
Yes it could be related to what @Rooted suggests. Have you checked the pressures are all equal?
If no brake rubbing and no issues with pressures, maybe there is an issue with an ABS sensor as that is what supplies the data for TPMS (unless direct).
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A few comments/questions from me:
The conditioning runs for a while after the departure time so I have my time set to be about 20 mins before I actually leave. This enables the battery to catch up.
On the subject of battery, when do you have the charge period set for? Mine is set to start in line with cheap rate but finish after the departure time. This opens the battery up to be fully topped up while providing the energy for the car conditioning system. It's worth noting that the car takes the power for the AC from the onboard system rather than the mains (assuming 12v via transformer from 400v). This then needs topping up.
I think it's clear you have an issue with the coding that requires the 100% SOC which is odd as mine will happily drain the main battery if not plugged in.
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This discussion comes up every few months when new members join. There are a large number of people out there who think an annual service covers everything a car needs.
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DSG on a 1.0 is the dry clutch variant (dq200) with no official service requirements. They can be serviced but you will need to find somewhere that knows about it. If you've been told it's a 40k service by a garage, don't take it there as they clearly don't know the car.
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Help with infotainment system vs Android Auto
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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The data in Google maps is the same regardless. Just displayed differently.
Waze uses the same source as it's now owned by Google but has other stuff on top like user added obstructions and traffic. The speed info is also very good as it shows the limit as well as your speed. There should be an update coming that shows upcoming limit changes too. Useful for those 60 to 30 jumps in areas you're not used to.