MarkyG82

Can also recommend a stiffer rear roll bar. I'd actually do that before anything else. The L&K should have DCC so you can adjust the dampers to your preference. There's a vcds mod that opens the fixed presets to a slider. I think it allows greater high and low limits too.

Have you fitted a dash cam recently? There was a link to this sort of behaviour on the octavia to do with hard wiring kits.

As @ZJZ says. The dead spot is usually the centre of the steering but can also be noticed under any change in direction. Some think tyres with large dead spots can be comfortable to drive but unresponsive to turning input. Personally I find them uncomfortable to drive due to the constant input required to keep the car straight. I do like a pointy car though. Small steering input = actual response form the car. However, how the car is set up and the condition can also fell the same. A sloppy rear end (oo-er) can feel vague like a dead spot. Also worn steering bushes can do the same thing.

If you want to stop things get into it then a simple 3d printed bung of probably something off amazon should work.

I have CC2 on my original 18s for winter use and a set of VW 19s with good summer tyres for summer use. I tried using the CC2 for one summer and found them to be a little lacking. I was having to drive much more conservatively than I knew the car was capable of. In winter they are good and I will need to think hard about whether to go like for like (CC3/sport?) or full winter. My gut at the mo says go CC as the fluctuating temps are not so happy for full winters.

There's the reason.

Can confirm that the lights come on on my Passat GTE lifting in B mode. Ss for the original question, This has been "discussed" on EV forums and it depends a lot on how you drive and where you drive. Scientific experiments have shown without doubt that D mode is more efficient (in most cases). But it's not to everyones taste. Like above I sometimes use B in traffic or town or windy country lanes. Just gives more confidence in the slowing of the car in changeable speed situations. I use D most of the time but with active use of the paddles. This changes the car temporarily into M which adds roughly 70% of the regen of B. I then either let it return back to D on it's own or hold the upshift paddle to return to D. This way I can temporarily increase the stopping power for lights or a corner but quickly get back to the long coast feel of D. Then there is the odd occasion that B is good on a downhill run. e.g. the hill down from hot air balloon roundabout (RIP pub) or the hills on A303. Just helps regulate speed easier.

Really good to hear your positive response. Yes they should last longer. The mono tube setup is in theory more robust.

Placing a dsg in N has been discussed and the general consensus is that it wouldn't hurt but at the same time isn't necessary. My view is if stop-start is on then don't waste the wear on the control valves and leave it in drive.

I might be doing mine in the next year or 2. Currently on 75k (miles) and 7yrs. The recent change from whatever it was (70k and 5 year?) gives confidence that they are capable of holding out a bit. Id say 100k (160k km) would be my limit. Age is up to you but 10 years seems a good limit too. Note I say "limit". Depending on your usage (anything other than pootling round town with stop-start off) can remove life from the running parts.

@travs that is all true for the standard shocks. Last time I looked into it (a while back) bilstein weren't manufacturing mono tube damptronic units. The only difference was the actual base damping being a bit stiffer on the B6. Being adaptive the requirement for a stiffer shock is minimal.

Yeah the damptronic are the equivalent and I think are a drop in solution. The reason I suggested the B4 over B6 is the standard B6 are mono tube shocks which offer a good performance advantage in use and life expectancy. The damptronic versions are twin tube like most car shocks and are built in the same way as the B4. The might have different seals but the construction is the same so it may not be worth the added cost for a slightly stiffer damping profile.

Bilstein B4 damptronic. You're welcome.

I've done it before on other cars. At this point it's probably worth removing from the car. You can't drive it like it is anyway so make your life easier. It could be as simple as pressing back in but likely will need some sort of disassembly. Maybe look into a refurb kit (seals, etc). But then by the time you've done that you may as well just get a new caliper.

Improving the charge cooler would always be a benefit so probably not a bad route to start with. Afraid I can't offer first hand of the actual thing you are seeing but your logic stands up. How is the clutch coping? Are there any torque increases with the over boost events? Is it WOT only or at other times too?