RallyeSport

I tried to de-rust the rear lock, no chance. Corroded beyond all hope. I got in thanks to the poor window lifts made by VAG. One of the half broken rear windows I managed to pull down so the wire snapped. But couldn't open any looks, when handles from the inside were pulled, they just went back to locked. But got the battery out to charge it. Should make a battery jump start cables attachments. How can i fix the driver door lock? Turning the key does nothing.

Anyone?

Which nut size is the rear wheel hub nut? Also which size is the umbraco screw head for the rear caliper. I'm changin the rear wheel bearing to swap for a new hub with bearing fitted, I have a three armed puller. Anythinh else I need other than a torque wrench, someone remember the torque spec?

It doesn't seem straight forward to access the bonnet lock. Can the door locking mechanism be easily modulated using a thin steel rod from between the door and the glass?

The battery is flat and the drivers door lock is not interacting whit the lock when I turn it, just goes around. And the rear lock is of course rusted beyond repair. How do I get to the battery? Slide something down along window to get to the locking mechanisme to open the door?

I need about 20cm of right outer door sill panel, anyone got some left from a repair?

The actuator will not last as long as the turbo. The diaphragm on mine went, I checked it with a vacuum pump, no response. Found an aftermarket replacement on ebay. Good as new. But if the car starts smoking, it's probably the turbo. But if you just have a lost of power and turbo pressure, it's most probably the actuator or the control valve (sits on the firewall). It will suck dust/dirt when the diaphragm goes. The actuator sits "upside down" and can collect dirt, that's why it's prone to failure.

Pm sent

It's getting colder and the engine could heat up a little faster. There's a covered grill option for Octavia II, but I can't find one for Octavia I. Aerodynamics should improve also. Homemade is the only option?

Ok, think I tried both. "Port ok, interface not found" when I connetct it. OBD-plug starts glowing when I connect to the car. Which reader should I get to make it form with VCDS "full"?

I had to hammer it, I had to spear it, I had to set it on fire and hammer it some more. But I finally got it out. I had to scrape and sand the hole forever to get the new one in before I just sanded the sensor itself. It was in and straight after sanding the ring itself also. In the meantime I had disconnected the battery hoping resetting more than just the clock. When turning the ignition, light did not come off. But after driving 200m, it was off. Oh joy. I'm not looking forward to the day one of the front sensor gives out. Then the hub probably must come off to get the sensor off. I noticed the ring had rusted and expanded some places and worn the sensor so that the distance to the ring was variable. Not fun. Btw, couldn't get my OBD serial to USB reader to work with VCDS. Any recommendation for ebay ODB USB reader?

Car is a Octavia 2000 1.9Tdi. It started with the ABS suddenly activating after driving 200m and then the ABS light would come on. I pulled the fuse to not have the ABS activating. Then when I got around to fixing it, I put the fuse back and now the ABS light does not come off after ignition is on. I have check all the sensors and rear left does not show any reading on the resistance meter. The others are between 0.98 and 1.04. The strange thing is that rear left is at 5v, not 2.5v like the others, when I measure the harness for wire breakage. Off course the sensor was stuck, but I tried to plug in the new one and turn the ignition on, still the ABS light wouldn't come off. Do I have to reset something in the ECU after the new sensor is installed? How do you get a stuck sensor off? Taking of the rear brake disc and tapping it from that side after heating the area?

Story: Leaking oil cooler causes coolant loss, car overheats on ascent. Oil cooler fixed but engine is still loosing coolant. Wet around overflow valve constantly and black spots in the reservoir. Head is dismantled, new gasket is ordered. Old head gasket looked terrible, the sealing coating when stuck and torn everywhere. Now: New gasket is the thickest, 1,71 mm, three holes. I thought the original gasket was one hole (misread it for being one of three holes elongated meaning thinnest). So from what I remember now, the original gasket is two holes. There were some other holes on the right also spaced from the left group of holes, but from what I have understood, the first holes after the last elongated hole on the left is the number of holes that describes the gasket thickness. Alright, I will measure piston protrusion. But it's probably between 1 and 1.1 mm. My gasket can do 1.2 mm and head is skimmed 0,15mm. This is combination with the thickest gasket will be enough for piston protrusion of 1.05 mm. Skimming head when there is no combustion chamber will very little affect the compression ratio, so the only thing to worry about really is valve to piston clearance. I can still see a little step down from head surface to the valve seat, like before the skimming. When the valves are seated they protrude a little above the head surface. So to sum up, being unlucky the combination of head gasket thickness and skimming of the head, I can be left with 0,05 mm to little clearance according to safe spec set by VAG when combining head gasket and piston protrusion. One fix would be to take some material off the piston pockets of the pistons. Any thoughts?

Thanks. Was thinking about making a tool for my slide hammer.

I managed to get the two middle ones out, but 1 and 4 is not coming out. They turn ok, and I can wiggle them slightly, but not budging axially. I connected one of the pipes to get some pulling force on them. Is there some tool to pull these? I have sprayed WD40 on them and tried to use some heat on the aluminium. Looks like these:

Yes, something like that. Meaningless external wear on the oil cooler.

I found the leak. It was the oil cooler, but not the seals or hoses. A plastic clip which holds a part of the wiring harness to the coolant hose from the thermostat was the cause. The end where it hooks on the the coolant hose is flared and this edge was rubbing on the oil cooler just below the top egde on the front side. When the engine vibrates, it vibrates too. This was enough for the plastic edge to erode (with dirt/sand and spray from water on the road) into the aluminium making a 3 mm deep groove, just enough to get through to the water by a tiny hole where it dripped. I suspect the hole was so tiny that to cause a serious leak the coolant pressure needed to be high, which happens when the engine gets hotter. I cleaned it, sanded it and slapped on some chemical metal and now there is no more coolant loss.

No oil under cap. Water is on hoses and cooler is not connected to drainage of coolant. I see oil coolers are available as new, but does it have a thermostat that regulates the water flow? If so, this can be connected to the increasing coolant loss during uphill ascents.

Anyone experienced a coolant leakage from the oil cooler?

2000 Octavia 1.9 TDI AHF engine is losing coolant, and actually boiled on a long uphill. There's no smoke from exhaust and not apparent leaks, but I'm suspecting the oil cooler is leaking since I have seen some red coolant on it one time, and it looks washed after ascents. When the oil gets hot, the oil cooler thermostat runs water through it causing water leak?

I have'nt noticed how it starts to work since it's happened just a couple of times. Where can I get brushes and what do they cost? A new fan costs from 30£ on ebay.

The car is from 2000 and has Climatronic. Sometimes, when it's cold, the fan won't work. It will occasionally start working. Does the fan need replacement or something that controls it?

Pulling fuse 15 fixed it, for now..

Lately the dials on the instrument panel will only work sporadically. All the lights, electronic displays and symbols are working. Is there something that can be sorted out, or is changing the hole instrument box the only solution. Will a box from another car bolt in without any calibration or resetting of some sort? The car is a 2000 Octavia 1.9l TDI, AHF engine.

Thanks.